madkaw

I’m hoping things settle down as far a as Covid by the time the show happens . It’s only a 4 hour drive for me , so I don’t have to stay anywhere on the way . I having booked yet because I think there will be openings at the hotel with all the cancellations. I am concerned about Covid, but I think with precautions the show could go on. Folks with preconditions should think twice about going anywhere . I’ll be masked up and ready and hopeful 

Thanks for the feedback guys . I think I’m going to run it and acquire all the bits to redo the rear bearings . Maybe a winter project . 

I reached out to someone that has a Z shop, and he said it’s probably fine for a street car. If I was going to race the car , I should look at it . I’d have to wait until I got it on my lift to get enough leverage arm to move that nut anyways  . I don’t have a FSM - but my Hanes says 180-240lbs tolerances . Grunt !

Confirming info I found on this and my methodology . I measured about .0065 pulling in and out on the rotor assembly . Book says .0057 max . We all know how hard it is to torque these . 
Would you torque an older assembly the same as installing a new one if it didn’t make spec ? 
Trying to find my fish scale to measure that spec. I do have the slightest vibration I can see in the mirror. I’m pretty sure I redid these when I did my Wildwoods and that was 20k miles .

5 hours ago, AK260 said:

Well done chap, that’s great news and a good result!

One word of caution: I was going to do this 12si thing before upgrading the internals of mine (to output a stable 90A, peak 120A) and researched it to death. Some guys have found that with the way you have it mounted, over time has caused the mounting point on the alternator to crack and fail. I guess it’s under a lot of tension and vibration given the sheer weight of the thing. So try not to leave it too long like that if you can.

I only ran around like this for 1 day. modified original mount-so its on solid!

Wasn’t me . I made a thread here many years ago about this subject of dual oiling systems  , but I think it’s lost . 
There’s been man stories of lost cams . With all the variables , it’s hard to attribute a wiper lobe to one thing .

Spray bars -to me - are problems just waiting to happen 

4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Sometimes they flatten a lobe even if everything is done right.  @madkaw knows, if I remember right.

Who is the camshaft shop that he uses?  

I’ve never lost a cam - but heard many stories 

40 minutes ago, Jeff Berk said:

Would using the turbo Z pump be strong enough to pump oil through both the internal oiler and spray arms? Is there a way to check how well it's working?

I would NOT recommend running both . Just stick with a internally oiled cam . It’s hard for the system to put out enough volume for both . I think the cam spray bar is ineffective when using both . The oil barely reaches the lash pads - at least the tests I did. Maybe with my Kameari pump it might work .

Simple test is to drop out your drive spindle on the dizzy and drop in a drill with something to drive the pump . Get your mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked up where you can see it . Fire up your drill and watch your pressure and your oil flow . I made a valve cover with a cut off top to watch without oil getting everywhere .

Ive done this test using the modified valve cover while the motor was running . 

I wouldn’t , and haven’t started a motor without performing this test . I’ve have never lost a cam yet . I’ve had a Schneider , ISKY , and now a Bonk cam . 
And I use Rotella truck oil - nothing fancy

So I got my 12si alternator and didn’t have my mount modified yet , so I did the sketchy mount where you flip the clocking . The beauty is that it bolts right up with one spacer , flipping the adjuster bracket and a longer 8x1.25 bolt . Sucker charged right from idle , which I read might not happen . Might be the way I wired it , but it’s still a one wire set up basically .  Drove it around and it showed 14.5 volts pretty consistently with electric fan and all my other goodies . Haven’t driven at night , but will try that tonight . 
I did get the proper mount modified , so about to try it . I’ll be watching for drains on the battery . 
 

1 hour ago, Carl Beck said:

What is the VIN on your Z?  Both the 1971 and 1972 Model Year Datsun 240'z were built in 09/71.  It don't think it really matters as both had the fuel vapor line...  Part Number is the same up to 06/72, then it was superseded by the next part number up to 07/73. 

Yes - my 9/71 is titled 71 . Transition month for sure 

well I was thinking about doing the AC Delco swap but using the 12S. I was going to ask for one of the mounting brackets from you @zKars, but now I read about the drain and wonder if I made a mistake .

the original reason for coming to this thread was ask about the wiring. in every thread I've found on 1 wire, I've not seen a schematic. Sounds silly for a 1 wire, but I've read you should upgrade to 8 gauge wire directly to the battery? I've also read that these do better with the sense wire connected . I actually have read that 3 wire is best. How does this wire work with the original wiring running to the inside of the car and the amp meter?  Any examples I can see?

As far as why GM alternator. New sent to my house is 70$ -thats not a reman. Oriellys couldn't find a zx anywhere . I run electric fans and EFI and a 200watt stereo.

I've read both the stories of battery drain and those that never have had issues. 

On 7/9/2020 at 1:11 AM, conedodger said:

Steve, I have a new set of OEM studs in the E31 head. Help me though, ZCD?

Z car depot is correct . So you have the studs and you just need nuts . I like the copper ones ZCD sells . Or some good ole nut and washers 

I run OEM studs . I’ve used the SS stud kit from ZCD - I believe - also . I have also used there copper flanged nuts - and they do stay tight . Tight enough to bring the stud out sometimes . But no washers to fiddle with . 

23 hours ago, Derek said:

+1 for Flipping the rear vent tube. This would make replacement of that hose a lot easier. Great job though and the price seems very reasonable to me.

 

Not sure that’s true . The position it sits below the floor hole is awkward either way. IMHO just a flip wouldn’t be much better . Angled upward towards the hole would be best . Deleted all together would be better . The other hose is available for the front vent . Even if that hose becomes  NLA, it could be done easier them the top rear vent . 
I just did this job on a 71. Replaced all vent lines so it is fresh on my mind . The top rear vent is a mother . 

You didn’t completely delete the vapor system because you left one of the vent tubes . The vent tube you left is the hardest to connect . Im also not sure how you delete all the vents and the fuel tank can properly operate and breathe. There has been members here that have deleted the vents and have had fuel cavitation from lack of air to vent the tank . One vent line might be enough and I think the OEM system seems too much . I also am glad you are making these and I am not nit picking your effort . I just did a tank vapor system with all new hoses and the one in the top back is the worse to do . That why I wish you left the other two .

Good luck and thanks for your efforts 

4 hours ago, christoffel said:

This are exact pictures of the tank+

Yep - you deleted the wrong vents . You should have kept them two and deleted the one at the back of the tank . Nissan still sells a vent hose for the front vent and the side vent doesn’t need a formed hose . The vent you kept is he hardest one to duplicate and reach . Too bad 

10 hours ago, siteunseen said:

see what i did here...

EDIT, tres equis guy. 

Cliff - you crack me up . 
you know I couldn’t figure this signature stuff out earlier because unless my I Pad is sideways I can’t see my sign in . 
Thanks for the help . Maybe someday you will be as cool as me. 

6 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

Sounds healthy , how far did you get into the RPMs?

That was 7kish

Wish I could figure out how to change my signature - it’s outdated 

My son has the perfect filming car . His Model 3 will out run me all day , but also quietly film me . Third gear pull.

I also like the condenser idea . I still get a lot of moisture even with my compressor . 
After years of inadequate compressors I finally put out the bucks . 2k if you want something to run a blaster and not be struggling . 5 year warranty parts and labor !

That’s 80 gallon - 19cfm at 90 psi.

And suction type blasters “suck” especially from HB.

Watch some you tube videos on modifying them

9 hours ago, kfvintagejdm said:

My name is Gerson Caicedo, my wife and I are the sole owners of  kfvintagejdm.com and klassicfab.com..I ran into this thread while doing some Zcar vendor research online today. First off I want to say that we(kfvintagejdm) are not affiliated with any shop, vendor, reseller, or organization anywhere in the world...PERIOD!!! my wife and I own the company outright and we answer to no one, except you the client/enthusiast....It has always been this way, we have been making reproduction sheet metal for close to 20 years now. We have a full stamping plant and reverse engineering shop where we laser scan, and reverse engineer all these new Japanese parts that we are introducing. We also make ALL our stamping and cutting tools..we even make our own hydraulic stamping presses.Our factory is located in Bogota Colombia and our sales office is located in Riviera Beach Florida..we have a distribution warehouse in Valencia Spain to serve out European clients, we also have distributors in Japan, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa. we are in the process of building a 6,0000sft distribution shop in Indiantown Florida. Our aim is to be your go to company for quality reproduction sheet metal for your Classic Japanese cars.....

website www.kfvintagejdm.com

website www.klassicfab.com

IG @kfvintagejdm

IG@klassicfabrications_inc

FB @kfvintagejdm

FB @klassic Fbrications Inc

 

 

Well since you are on here I’ll ask you about the floor sections . I contacted you by email and you did not respond . The rear section of floor board that covers behind the rear seat rail - do you sell it separate ? I bought the kit and thought it would come with that section - but it did not . I reached out to you and you didn’t respond.

7 hours ago, gundee said:

Took a photo. They are a bit smaller diameter but work. Most buyers likely never noticed.

Vogtland really did not do a good job of making them the correct OEM diameter.

Yep - kind of disappointing they didn’t get that right . My ST ‘s are a better fit , but they are not progressive. 

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Bummer.  Who did you order them from?

The seller said he’s sold hundreds of sets . I asked on FB and heard back from several that they are running them with good results . I wanted to make sure I didn’t get the wrong part . I think they are too small in diameter for the perch’s , but I guess they seat good enough to run. They need to be at least 1/4” bigger . 

1 hour ago, gundee said:

I got mine from jdmwerks too. They fit well on my 72.

That black spring looks really big wire diameter. Is that supposed to be stock?

They look heavier than the Vogtlands. To me anyway.

That’s a stock spring .