Zak's Z

Hi: I used POR-15 on my inner fenders, under floor pans, and I plan on using it on the engine bay, and rest of the underside. Its GREAT stuff. look at my gallery and you can see pics. I even painted over a screw hole, and when I went to poke it with a pick, I had to use a hammer to get thru it. Its hard. I dont know about Eastwood, but I like POR. Read about it on the website, because you should prep the metal, and you have to topcoat it if it will be exposed to light, or if youre going to paint over it, etc. Escanlon, among others has posted several threads here about it, and thats what got me turned onto it. Do a search and you'll find lots of opinions on it here. Zak

..when I get the feeling back in my fingers maybe.

Then I masked the spokes to get started on the wheel (I made the mistake and started sanding the wheel before I masked the spokes..had to do a re-do). Then I hand sanded each wheel. There may have been a better way, but I didnt see one to get all the fine detailing that needed to get done. I sanded it with 320 first lightly, then 800 to get the last of the original coating off. I didnt take any pictures of what it looked like with the sanded wheel, but it was ugly. I also didnt sand down the '71 enough I think, because theres small spots where the original coating (urethane?) can be seen thru the new coating and it looks like a foggy white, so be sure to sand it down enough. BUT...not too much because you might remove the 'patina', it is a wood with plastic infused wheel I think. I had to take a break for a day, because my fingers were killing me. It took a couple of hours to to do both. Then I used MINWAX wood finish stain to give the wheel one coat just to bring some color into the (really dull looking after sanding)wheel. I forget the color I used for the '71, I couldnt find the can after I did it. I thought it was the lighter of the 'red' colors, but I used 'sedona red' for the '72, and it looked to dark. I re-sanded the '72 wheel to get the sedona-red out, but it was still a bit darker, so I got 'cherry' and gave it a coat of that. Cherry looks good. Then I used MINWAX fast-drying polyurethane in a rattle can and gave it several coats of that. I sanded it with 00 steel wool after, lightly, just to smooth out the spots where I was a bit heavy. Then finally, I used turtle-wax polishing compound on the wheel, just to get it real smooth. I think it looks pretty good, what do you guys think?

I know this topic has been covered before, but I thought I'd post the pics and describe the steps I took while doing it. In between working on the body I have a '71 and a '72 wheel I thought I'd restore becasue they were pretty ratty looking. I did them both in case one didnt turn out well, and if they both turned out well, I'd sell one after the restore was done. I think they both turned out well. I masked off the wheel and sandblasted the spokes just enough to take most of the paint off. Then I hand sanded the spokes(with 800 then 1500), paying special attention to the holes in the '72 wheel, and the indents in the '71 wheel. I then used a rattle can of semi-gloss black engine enamel to paint the spokes. I ended up sanding in between coats with 00 Steel-Wool. I tried 1500 paper, but it was just too cumbersome and it always ended up sanding to metal on all the edges. I sprayed maybe 5 coats, and sanding in between coats. (continued below)

The paint debate is killing me...what do I do!? I can't decide. I LOVE the blue on the Z that KATS has. Its a Nissan Skyline blue (check it out...beautiful). My car was originally orange, but the wife hates orange (I'd like her to go for a drive with me, but then again...), and the red its painted now (but its coming off while im restoring) actually looks good, but red is so cliche on a sporty car. As far as a "buy-me" color, wouldnt the stock color be the one that would hold the most value? Zak

Hey, I dont know anyone down that way, but WHITEHEAD PERFORMANCE in Toronto is a great shop (too far out probly though...). Go to www.ontariozcar.com . They have alot of members to the east and maybe join the club or put a post up to ask there if anyone knows a good shop down your way. Im just north of T.O., maybe I'll see you at a meet sometime (if my Z finally gets done this summer). Zak Zak

INTERESTED. (I am interested in the rest too). '72 240z

So let me get this straight....maybe try Eastwood?:classic: Im interested too..I'm about to repaint some black pieces also. Whats the EXACT product or color, if anyone knows. ....ya ya I get it I'll try Eastwood....but they gotta have more than one kind of black! Zak

Happy Birthday Miles!!!!!!!!!

I forget who, but another user recently used Photoshop and took a photo of his car and made some stripes on it. Try that if you have an image editor! Zak

2 pics from the top looking down. Zak

Heres a few pics of when I took the motor out, but be warned - they're not pretty!

..and the phrase he uses "These are the original owner's words, when purchased 10 years ago" means to me he does not believe the condition he claims, but says it anyways because the previous owner said it. You have to wonder why he is using those words. Its one thing if he doesnt know, but he doesnt say that. he makes a claim and basis it on the words of the p/o 10 years ago. HHmmmm..

Hey, Try the Ontario Z car club: http://www.ontariozcar.com/ , theres a classified section there. Theres lots of resources near Toronto for parts and repairs also. Be careful getting a northern Z, check it thoroughly for rust! Zak

Welcome, I was new here about a year ago and I should have asked the questions BEFORE I bought my Z. I wanted a decent condition restore project/already a driver too. I tried to save a few bucks and it cost me more in the long run getting metal work done. My advice is, spend as much as you can (i know its not always realistic at first) on a good condition Z upfront, and it will save you work later. Look at the frame and rust on the vehicle. Check the engine compartment battery tray (it often gets eaten away by batter acid), check the inner fenders and wheel wells, dog legs, rear deck lid, floors and frame rails, rockers and fender lips. Those are all typical rust spots on a Z. Thats where I made my mistake. Im sure others will agree and also give you other areas to consider (condition of motor, suspension, drivetrain, is it all original?, is it all complete?, condition of interior). As far as whats the better of the two between a 240 - 280, if you've never had a preference for either of them, get whatever you can find thats in good shape. They all have the same body style but have some mechanical differences. The interiors are different, but its all preference. After I got my 72' 240z, I took a '76 280z for a drive and I think it rides just a touch better, but I prefer the 240z still. Use the "SEARCH" and spend some reading up, people have discussed their preference to no end here. Theres lots of good info, and lots of people willing to help out. Good luck finding a Z, Zak

I know Mike at Whitehead, he said the kit they get is quite a bit more, hes checking for me. I never thought of Charlie for a new kit. I did buy my floors, rails, and some used trim from him though..he's GREAT to deal with. Ill check with him too. Thanks, Zak

Theres a clutch kit on E-bay from MADDOG RACING, clutch parts are listed as 'PIONEER'. I have a '72 240z and I know I'm going to replace the clutch before it all goes back together. I really just want a 'stock' clutch, and I've seen some as high as $250.00 (this one is $99.00). Does anyone have an opinion on the make/quality of this kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7963256531&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 Thanks guys, Zak