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Posts posted by 24OZ

  1. Sorry for bringing up an old posts but I am experiencing this issue.

    Where are the grounds for the headlights located?

    I've found the main one from the combo switch going throughout the firewall and bolting to the inner wall, but where are the others located and how many are there?


  2. Hi Guys,

    I haven't posted for ages on here, hope the people I know are all well.

    Interesting discussion which is also going on at HybridZ.

    I am curious to know whether companies such as Kamikoto and Bob Sharp Racing etc.. adapted the standard valve cover (by shaving off the standard letters and glueing on their own design) or did they create a completely new casting? Can someone who has one please confirm.

    It doesn't seems economically feasable to create a completely new castings just for a logo yet they look cast to me.

    Below is the Bob Sharp cover, which I much prefer over the Kamikoto, if anyone has one for sale then please let me know! :)


  3. Hi Steve,

    I asked around and this is what I was told:

    1.) There will be a noticable increase in your acceleration but in my opinion you could use your time and money elsewhere with better results. In order to get the full benefit from a larger TB you also have to open up the intake manifold to match the opening on the TB. There will not be an increase in hp at any rate. Accelation is the only benefit and a minor one at that.

    2.)The acceleration "feel" is better but at wide open throttle there is no change. What that means is that for racing purposes, track runs, and dyno tests you will not see any change. In daily driving what you will see is that you don't have to push the gas pedal down as much as before to get the same throttle response. However when you floor it the air going is will still be the same as with the stock manifold because the smallest part of the intake system is not the throttle body. In order for you to see any real track or dyno results you have to port and polish the head, full port match on the intake manifold, and have the larter throttle body with a better intake filter. Some say just get the throttle body and then port match the intake manifold where it connects. But what about the rest of the intake manifold? The rest of it will still be too small to accept the extra air. Same goes for the head. This mod should be saved for the end once you've done most of the other mods and have port and polished the head and fully port matched the intake manfiold. Even then you will probably only see about a 5hp difference as L28 engine already breaths pretty well with the stock throttle body. Save the money for other mods that are worth it.

  4. Latest update:

    I never managed to get the bolt off the end of the hose that goes into the slave cylinder but I have managed to round it off!

    Now I am trying to diconnect the hose from the other end, i.e the end were the rubber hose goes into a metal tube towards the master cylinder....

    Now here's a strange thing, i tried to find a spanner to undo the metal pipe's bolt, again.... no spanners fit... I did find one spanner in my tool kit whuch was a perfect fit, this spanner is labelled NISSAN and one end has 10 on it and the other end has 8. It was the 10 that fitted, however this is not 10mm as i tried a 10mm spanner not one labelled NISSAN and its a tad too small... It looks like these bolts are special Nissan bolts which can only be undone with a NISSAN spanner...

    Anyone else noticed this?

  5. I haven't got or used one either but i have been told that there are 2 types. One has a connecter that screws into the spark plug hole and another you just push the connector into the spark plug hole and keep pushing while someone turns the engine..

    I've been told to avoid the push in ones and go for a screw in one. Screw in ones are supposedly more accurate then push in ones as there is less chance for air to escape and therefore false readings.

  6. Can anyone explain to me the advantage of changing my stock L28 EFI (280ZX NA) TB with a TB from a 240SX, I hear its bigger but what does that actually mean?? More air into the engine = more power... this is my laymans understanding.

    Will I notice alot of difference? Or will the gain only be marginal? I have no other mods on the car apart from a RAM AIR Cone Filter.

    If you've done it is it easy to do? Would you recommend this upgrade?

    Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this

  7. Keith, I just PM'd you prior to reading this...

    I have already tried an 11/16 and it didnt fit.. cant remeber if it was too small or too big (I'd have to recheck)... kinda strange though if it is supposed to be an 11/16 as all nuts on a Z are supposed to be Metric???

  8. PeterC LOL LOL

    Please correct me if I am wrong but I had always imagined that the purpose of that bit of carpet was primarily to protect the dash from sunlight and therefore prevent it from cracking. Prevention is better then cure.

    Are these really sold as a dash cap and not as a sunprotector for the dash??

  9. Mark,

    thanks so much for all the effort you've put in trying to help me out! And also confirming that I am not going mad! LOL

    I bought a 17mm flared spanner today and thats too loose too!!So i stopped turning.LOL LOL

    I think I will end up going all the way with the flared 17mm one but i have a horrible feeling its going to ruin the thread on that bolt as it is pretty tight. Then I'll be in trouble :stupid:

  10. I've gone back to look at the bolt on the hose which screws onto the slave cylinder and a 17mm spanner seems a little bit too loose and a 15mm is not big enough.. Is there such thing as a 16mm spanner?? My tool set goes from 15mm to 17mm and I am wondering why???

    I suppose I can always try an Imperial 5/8, glad i can use your table Mark!:)

    By the way, the bolts and hoses on my car are all original.. so its strange that I'm having this much trouble to find the correct spanner!

  11. Carl, Mark - thank you guys :)..

    Imperial is Inches, Metric is in MM and 240Z bolts are Metric.... Phew! Got it now..

    Carl - thank you for the links... excellent and helpful as ever.

    Thanks also for letting me know what the 11/16 meant it really did confuse me!!:stupid::stupid:

  12. I hope you guys don't frown on this post too much but I wanted to ask something pretty basic on spanners..:stupid:

    I have a whole box of them some are in MM like 15mm, 17mm others have fractions 11/16 etc... I normally find the best fit and use that one...

    How can i decipher the fraction ones and whats the difference between metric and imperial and are all the nuts on are Z's imperial or metric or a mixture??

    Another question, i am trying to remove the pipe on the slave cylinder (on the right side of the gearbox). the pipe to the slave cylinder connects via a bolt, i think i need to use a flared spanner... i cant seem to find the right spanner to fit... on the case of the slave cylinder there is an inprint of 11/16, i thought this may be the size of the spanner but it doesnt fit.. what size is it??? :stupid: :stupid:


  13. There is a lot of intelligent discusion going on over this, I didn't want to lower the tone but I'm going to butt in anyway LOL

    I am not sure if you guys have this product in the US, in fact i will be very surprised if you don't, it is a special paint specifically designed for the wire element on the rear demister. All you do is paint this special conductive paint over the element and hey presto... your rear demister should work! Wouldnt this eradicate the need to be getting voltegage meters and Ampmeters and other sensitive electronic gizmos out??? Or have I missed the point?

  14. Not completely sure I understand what kinda of gloves you guys are talking about.

    I buy a box of rubber gloves, (maybe 30-40 in a box) they are specially designed for the auto industry and are great as the latex is thin, hence you don't lose any of your manual dexterity and you dont get your hands dirty either!! Well thats the whole point!! :)

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