montoya_fan01

Sadder than a day in Falujah? or in New Orleans? or my gas bill for the last month?

If you added an Electric Fuel Pump it could use a relay. That is, if you don't have a 73 Z that already came with a relay for the OEM one.

I think I used Utra Black Permatex. My manifold gaskets go nekkid, no problems in 7 years.

RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing. Some tubes of silicone in the hardware/auto stores have it on the label and some don't. I've used both and they "seem" to be the same product going by look and smell. (even though that's not the best way to tell if they are the same). I wouldn't use it (either) on an engine. There are too many good products made specific for engines to take a chance.

If America can have restaurants serving food from other lands and cultures, why can't Japan? Do Japanese people always eat Japanese food?

Any idea how many feet are needed for driver and passenger door? Also, how would you deal with the upper rear corner where the 90 degree angle is located??????????

You're being scammed by the shop. It can and has been done as I stated. It's your call...........................they're trying to sell you a d/s instead of a couple of U/j. A little searching in the archives will verify what I'm saying.

driver was probably playing with the fuzzy dice instead of paying attention to where he was driving.

Take your driveshaft to a shop that services driveshafts. They can remove the current u-joints and install ones that can be serviced. No need to buy a new d/s.

Gosh, Chill Dude I tried to get across that I wasn't attacking you personally, but you seem not to have believed that. My uncles still have a couple of the cars they built long ago, (middle 1970s) and more that they and Dad have built more recently and both they and my Dad still use Armorall on most if not all of thier cars and trucks. As for magazines, I'm not aware of any magazines their cars have been featured in, but I don't see that as meaning anything in this discussion. Why would you bring that up? Does it make one point more valid than another? I don't think so. Try telling a judge that based on your memories of the look, feel and smell of Armorall throughout the last 50 years that you know they haven't changed the formula. That statement and bus fare might get you across town, but it won't buy anything in this discussion. funny that you started out by refering to your knowledge from chemistry classes, which now seems to have been wrong. Wonder how your legal knowledge will hold up. anyway, I'm still not trying to put you down, but this discussion is going nowhere so I'll bow out of it, but I do not believe that your experiences constitue proof, and my families experiences don't either. i believe that "our" experiences illustrate that there are differing opinions out there, and so far, I haven't seen "proof" either way. Still waiting...............

my plastic one has the pins on the back and clips that fit in the holes on the hood., no tape to be found on it at all.

The OEM one I bought from MSA 5 years ago was plastic

Not trying to argue with you, and not doubting your experience, but not everyone has had the same "issues" that you have found with Armorall. My dad and uncles say they have used it on the custom hotrods and classic restorations they have built since the early 70's which are stored through the winter every year without care due to the cold weather here. Sorry but it all sounds like advertising / salesmanship in website statements made (more so from Meguires, but also from Armorall to a degree) Still, no PROOF as I define PROOF. Do you really think Meguires is the only company to update their products over the years? Armorall just stuck with the recipe they used in the 60's and 70's while their competitors reacted to the newer materials used in cars made since then? Look, feel and smell can be manipulated and memories do not constitute PROOF of anything. By the way, the Meguires data indicates that they use silicones and that they are inert and safe. Yet your earlier post indicated that silicones are not appropriate for use on vinyl. I'm a little confused about that. My bottle of Armorall has "Satisfaction Guaranteed" printed on the label and it also says "Armorall will help protect materials in good condition, but will not restore materials which are already damaged." After saying all of this, I'll also say that I use some Meguires products and haven't found one that doesn't work well. But my family has used Armorall for a long time also and hasn't found a problem with it either. Both companies have been in business for a long time and are still in business. Meguires is older, but does that matter? I doubt they are currently selling what they manufactured 100 years ago, and I doubt Armorall is selling their original recipe after 50 years either. You are welcome to your opinion, but i don't think it is any more than that.......same as mine. still wanting proof, real proof.

The question posed in Post 1 is impossible to answer with any validity because "sound OK" is a vary individual "thing". What is OK to me, won't be OK to some other people, and what is OK to a third person won't be OK to either of the first 2 people. Does "the muffler guy" know more about the proper usage of a glasspack than the company that designed it? Installed backward, i'd expect if to fail early and "probably" flow poorly, otherwise the maker wouldn't specifiy an inlet/outlet. Most "muffler guys" at shops around here are not exactly "knowledgable" about the science of exhaust flow. They are good, hard working people, but are not exactly science majors. I don't understand why "A traditional mufler won't fit in there", as lots of Z cars have Dynomax mufflers, Flowmasters, some even use a GM Corvair "Turbo" muffler. There should be plenty of room unless someone has done major alterations to the car.

Sounds like a short in the wiring, or one in the blower motor. Something is drawing more power (amps) than the blower motor fuse can handle. Is the antenna blowing a fuse? If not, do you know if it is even getting power through the wiring harness TO the antenna itself? Why does the blower motor have a separate fuse? Probably because it draws enough power on it's own that it cannot share a fuse with something else. Time to break out the volt/ohm meter and do some troubleshooting.

Don't 280Z's have the engine number on the fender tag? If not, then it may not be possible to know the original engine number.

Everyone has their own "special" product that they claim works, and most of these people have one or more that they claim WONT work. I have NEVER seen any "PROOF" that Armorall ( or any other product sold SPECIFICALLY for Automotive interior/vinyl surfaces) WONT work or is harmful. If anyone has such PROOF ( not hearsay) from a scientific test performed by professionals, I'd certainly be interested in seeing it published by the source. I've had good results using plain old Isopropyl Alcohol, wiped on with a clean soft cloth, and wiped off immediately after the overspray/stain is gone. I then wipe the area with water which will dilute/neutralize any residual alcohol that remains on the surface.

Spray some Kroil or PB Blaster penetrant in there. (theres only rust holding it in) then whack the snot out of it with a pin punch and a BFH.

well a smart guy would only put it there when it was needed, right?

Now why would anyone who plans to drive their car at speeds over 150MPH on public roads balk at using a certain fuzzbuster that is illegal?

Why is this thread in the body and paint section?

what you will get from 1-800-radiator is a piece of junk. Poorly made, won't last like a radiator should. In the long run you'd be wasting money. If your radiator is still sound (not already ROTTED), follow Ed's advice and have it boiled and rodded. Otherwise, have your local shop RECORE it. If you insist on an aluminum rad, forget the word cheap.

From my conversations w/ Hagerty, I have found that they will limit the # of miles you can drive your Z per year, they will require that you have another car as a daily driver, and that the car they insure MUST be garaged. If you cannot meet ALL of those requirements, they will not insure your Z. I'm not saying they are a bad insurance co. (they are a good company) but, I'm saying that they insure collectable cars, and they expect a certain (higher) level of care to the car than a "regular" insurance company expects to an ordinary car.

Yeah, that is the kit I was recommending. Take your time and work carefully, you'll be $$$ ahead and will have learned something new to help you maintain your cars. Sorry to hear about the accident, richard1. Glad you are OK, and (from the sound of it) your car can be repaired.