montoya_fan01

Some people insist on eating Popeye's Fried Chicken & others insist on KFC, still others prefer Church's Fried Chicken. Flavor may be a little different, but it's still the same species of bird. Essentially the same. Different oils may have different additives, but I think that oils that meet the same specs are essentially equal and your engine won't know the difference. I use whatever NAME BRAND oil (Pennzoil, Castrol, Quaker State, etc) that is on sale when I need to buy. I make sure that I use the best grade of oil in the weight that I choose to run (20W 50 in my case). Never have had an oil related (or ANY) engine failure in hundreds of thousands of miles of driving. Synthetic oils are completely different from Dino oils. I prefer to use Dino oil in my Z, but I use synthetic in my 2003 Ford F150

The basic filter used on many Chevys and Fords can be used on an L motor. I'm not recommending a Fram filter, but the p/n for that brand is PH8A, Pennzoil PZ1, etc. Some OEM filters are smaller in size than "standard" aftermarket filters. I prefer the larger size filters as I think there is probabley (or at least a good chance that there is) more filter media inside the bigger cannister. I saw in the archives a thread about Wix brand filters being good cause they have an anti-drainback feature that many other (cheaper) brands don't have. It keeps the oil in the filter from draining out over time so that when you crank the engine the oil presure builds up quicker and the bearings aren't spinning with out oil for as long of time. (I use 20W 50 oil, but my climate may be different than yours)

Agree with posts #3 & 4. Flash rust isn't always visible to the eye in it's earliest stages. Protect the bare metal!

Fill the oil pump with oil before you install it, otherwise you will NEVER get oil pressure to build up when you start to spin the engine (with the coil disconnected) to prime the engine oil galleys/bearings, etc.

Great, now my keyboard has drool all over it........................

Seeing pictures on the internet, or even holding photographs in your hand isn't quite the same as standing in a pool of blood, guts, and entrails. Especialy if they belong to someone you know, OR you realize that you are responsible for the scene in front of you. Nor is it the same as seeing and smelling the results of a body being torn apart first hand, 6 inches from where you are standing (or laying, if you were unfortunate enough to be involved). People screaming and moaning in pain; bystanders scared out of their wits. Sorry to be so graphic, but it's a whole different experience when you are there LIVE and IN COLOR. BTDT, wouldn't wish it on anyone. .

sure they are. :stupid:

No, he doesn't HAVE to do that. He CAN do it that way, but it can be done much easier. They can be attached directly from his computer directly into his post. From the "reply to thread" page where he creates his post, scroll down to where it says "manage attachments, click there, and follow the prompts to select what you want attached., click "upload photos", Bam! He's done.

calling a ZX a Z is like calling a Fiat a Ferarri.

Soak one end/corner of a clean soft cotton towel with Isopropyl alcohol. Rub a Dub, When overspray is gone, wipe with water dampened cloth..

Could also be your turn signal switch, but hopefully not because it is EXPENSIVE to replace. The switch takes all of the current to the turn signal lights and carbon tracking, dirt & grime take their toll. These systems were not designed to last 30 years & are generally well past their intended lifetime.

Isn't Rick going to a part of the world where you wouldn't want to use the term "BLAST" when wishing him a good time? Just a thought.........................

The clutch slave cylinder on a 72 IS adjust able BUT, it is NOT the same as the one on a 74. As loy stated, the clutch slave cylinder on a 74 IS NOT adjustable.

Are you a real Pimp, a pretend Pimp, or Stroker Ace? Ever hear of "The Bishop Don Magic Juan" aka Donald Campbell? Now this is a real PIMP.

Sorry, but I disagree. I have SEEN fuel overflow out the nipple on the float bowl cover. the hose from it to the backside of the aircleaner is what keeps the fuel from ending up on the exhaust manifold. The key words you seem to be disregarding are "normal operation". Engines/carbs do not always operate normally and if this results in a dangerous condition, provision has to be made to minimize the danger. Hence, fuel overflow nipples connected to the aircleaner. Better to have the engine stall than burst into flame when excess gas hits the exhaust manifold. When the inlet valve sticks open or is misadjusted, fuel can enter the bowl faster than it can flow through the nozzle of the carb. When this happens, fuel WILL (HAS TO) go somewhere else. When the float bowl becomes full that somewhere else is out the overflow nipples. Do they also operate as vents? Well ya, sure they do, but they are plumbed to the aircleaner because they also function to get rid of excess fuel when something goes wrong in the float bowls. FWIW, there is no # 4 indicated on the picture. I think mentioning a #4 will confuse the issue.

from a US perspective, Lots o' emissions stuff missing from what I see. No idea what came on an oz car. won't advise on the fuel overflows. This is why I keep the stock aircleaner w/ a KN. Everything has the proper place to connect, you dont get that with the aftermarket stuff. Yes, PCV goes to the crankcase breather pipe on the side of the engine IIRC

Now it shows up. HybridZ's server must have been busy (or something) the first time I tried to view it. They are difinitely bass ackwards. The good thing is that NOW you know the job and it will go quicker than the first time.

Picture??????????

This is the best, most wise post of the entire thread. There should be a prize awarded.

glad your OK, but Mr. K had nothing to do with the Z31, he was long gone from Nissan by then.

a bit more info 1 = Fuel Inlets - rotate the hoses towards the cylinder head, they go to the fuel rail. (there should also be an fuel overflow fitting for each carb that would go to the aircleaner) 2 = PCV 3 = Fitting for Vacuum to Master Vac Booster for your brakes

Not trying to to be "smart", just clarifying so someone doesn't go off looking for a Progressive seal kit, or Precision insurance. Need a little bran in your diet? Just kidding ya

1973 (build date 2/73) definitely has a fuel pump relay that looks very OEM. Maybe the E. pump in my car was added by a dealer using a different service kit than the one that a dealer used when adding a E. pump to your car? Remember, the 73 didn't have an E. pump from the factory, it was an addon to solve a problem.

Order rebuilt one from MSA, or other source. Done.

Isn't it Precision that makes weatherseals and Progressive that sells insurance?