kyle146

12 minutes ago, kyle146 said:

Didn't mean to dig up an old thread but I want to share this with anyone who is curious if their ecu will work. I just picked up a A11-000-000 ecu which according to the sheet is a 1975 automatic California ecu. I placed it into a 1977 manual California ecu car with model A11-601-000. Car started fine and had no problems. Even though the ecu is 1975 and an automatic, it started and revved to 3k no problem. Haven't driven it yet but I can make an update if needed

Also i just noticed that my ecu that ive had with the car ever since is an auto ecu. It's definitely not a swapped manual Z judging by the serial number not having an A meaning auto. Probably a replacement ecu back in the day

Didn't mean to dig up an old thread but I want to share this with anyone who is curious if their ecu will work. I just picked up a A11-000-000 ecu which according to the sheet is a 1975 automatic California ecu. I placed it into a 1977 manual California ecu car with model A11-601-000. Car started fine and had no problems. Even though the ecu is 1975 and an automatic, it started and revved to 3k no problem. Haven't driven it yet but I can make an update if needed

Crush washer is causing it, mine has been doing it for a long time. As soon as I get new plugs and don't take them out to look at them, I never see a drop.

Let me just restate my sentence now. "Great news!!!! Bosch relay #0332514120 does in fact WORK! Received my unit today and tested it and confirms it does work. Operates exactly as the old one with fuel pump turning ON in start and shuts off if AFM does not trigger fuel power. Connectors fit perfectly without modifications needed! Relay is slightly bigger than my old one but it will become a cheap insurance piece now!"

3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Cool, and thanks for the confirmation.

One question though. When you said the fuel pump comes off in start... What you really meant was that the fuel pump comes ON in start, right?

 

Yes sorry I did mean on in start. AFR takes over when key returns to on. 

8 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

Did you think I would steer you wrong? I think Tony D was posting about the VW fuel injection relay over at Zcar.com back around the turn of the century. I'm a vast repository of useless trivia, but sometimes some useful information sticks, too.

Oh no I trusted you! I just wanted to inform the previous members of the attempt. 

Great news!!!! Bosch relay #0332514120 does in fact WORK! Received my unit today and tested it and confirms it does work. Operates exactly as the old one with fuel pump turning on in start and shuts off if AFM does not trigger fuel power. Connectors fit perfectly without modifications needed! Relay is slightly bigger than my old one but it will become a cheap insurance piece now! Writeup coming soon

https://ratwell.com/technical/L-JetronicTester.html

Just stumbled upon this on the site. Looks to be the same ECU connector as a 280z ecu...

Well judging by this site:

https://www.ratwell.com/technical/DoubleRelay.html

that @SteveJ posted on another thread, it breaks down that relay and its components and even lists out what is inside that version. Stating that it could be made by hand if someone wanted too. It even talks about L- Jetronic and each pinout

Just bought one, should be here this week. Will do some testing!

3 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

There's a 120 and and a 121.  The 121 says "Jetronic", the 120 doesn't.  Wonder if diodes/resistors is the difference.  I know that their typical 5 pin relays come in different flavors.  Same basic functions, just some have a few extra parts inside.  Usually they show it on the cover, but these don't.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0332514121-BOS0332514121/dp/B006NYJ328

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Automotive-0332514120-Relay/dp/B004Z0W1C6

The pinouts on that 121 don't seem to match up, maybe a later year revision?

1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

The chances are that if it is in the Nissan relay, you'll find it in the Bosch relay since the Nissan system is a licensed copy of the Bosch. 

Im going to take that chance, I will  follow up with my results. Based on the fact that Nissan used a licensed version of the Bosch system. Will follow up with results this week when new Bosch relay comes in the mail.

Looks Great! I would also replace all the rubber brake lines while you have the suspension apart. It really becomes a real pain in the butt when you put in all the work and re bleed the brake lines just to find a cracked hose. Been there once and will never make that mistake again

1 hour ago, Shawninvancouver said:

where is the screw i undo to let the gas out? is it the bolt on the end? or somewhere else?? or should i just drill it??

 

 

I Remember unscrewing that Philips screw on the front of the shock and it letting out a little bit of the gas. Tightened it back up due to me wanting to keep the pressure in. But that might be your best bet! Wear safety glasses as its pressurized. Just out of curiosity, why are you de pressurizing them?

4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Just came across this one.  Who knows what the innards look like.  The problems don't show on the outside.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174753879999?hash=item28b02497bf:g:JK8AAOSwzOhgjcRl

I just ordered a Bosch unit to test it out. luckily nothing is currently wrong with my relay right now but if the Bosch one works, its just cheap insurance at that point!

7 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Here you go, with one old post.  It was SteveJ, and maybe Captain Obvious before him.  Not sure if EuroDat is in thee or not.

 

What a good read! I only stumbled upon this correlation based on the pinouts. I really want to purchase a relay form amazon now and test out those findings. Trying to find stock EFI relays has gotten expensive.

I wanted to see If anyone knew if their was any correlation between these two relays. One is the stock 280z fuel relay as we know it (under drivers side dash) and the other is a Bosch Fuel injecton relay for Porsche-VW. Bosch one is significantly cheaper than stock AND appears to have the same pinout. What are your thoughts?

9 hours ago, Sjoost said:

EuroDat & Kyle 146,

I am facing issues on my 280z 1976 (stall after initial startup, too rich, after while bit unstable) , and I have checked all and have now reached the Ignition coil. My resistance values on my coil primarily are 1.8 ohm and resistor is around 1.3 ohm (3.1 which i understand is too high anyway). NewZed from Hybridz directed me to EuroDat's HEI change over as his hint was that it could be my Ignition Unit gone bad. Thx for the nice writeup EuroDat. That will help me a lot.

Just to make sure, are the HEI's still working for you guys? And what about the unstable needle of the RPM meter?

I did notice the discussion on the red and green wire's. I was reading trough my 1976 FSM EE and found that there is actually a different wiring it seems, between the California model and the Non-California model. Could that be the strange difference Kyle had, compared to the EuroDat's setup?

Take care,

 

Joost

Currently I went back to the stock Transistor Ignition Unit on my car with the mindset "if it aint broke dont fix it" but i keep the HEI in my car just in case. As far as what I remember about doing this project, yes when I reversed the red and green wires the car ran right. Even after replacing the HEI in case of a weird fault. As far as color differences, I know that every single year of 280z's had different wiring. Looking at your image and corelating it with my FSM does show that the image is the same but it does appear that it wants me to check continuity of the primary circuit on a different wire. Maybe my car being a California car just makes it weird. Who knows, regardless Im not currently running the HEI right now. It ran great on the car for a week but I think due to me buying not a really good unit (a duralast cheap one from autozone) the HEI would miss a little at high RPM's. Let us know though if this fixes your problems and maybe someday I will come back to this project and run an HEI again. 

-Happy Holidays

25 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

Well, you have had a bit of a struggle getting there, but at least you now have a good working systeem. 

Yeah im happy to see it all in good working order!

17 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

You never really said where red and green were to start so it's unclear what reversed is.  But if your timing light is steady they're probably right now.  Green goes to G and red goes to W, normally.

I had a similar problem with my tach and the HEI module.  I fixed it by putting a condenser/capacitor on the negative (blue) wire that feeds the tach,  I assume that there was electrical noise generated by the HEI and the condenser knocked it down.  I know it worked because many miles later the tach started acting up again and I found that the wire to the condenser had broken.  Reconnected it and the tach was back.

Well when I did this project the red and green were just how the wiring diagram specified. Green going to G and Red going to W but that made the car run odd. Until i put the Green on W and Red on Green to try it out and then it worked!

Do you have a condensor/ capacitor recommendation by chance? Just so im not throwing in random types 

Thanks guys!

On 8/29/2019 at 1:28 PM, kyle146 said:

 

 Honestly I have no idea whats going on and why the reversing of wires works. Im going to keep the old ign box with me just in case this is a fluke and keep the ballast resistor on just so its easy to swap the old ign box back in if the hei goes haywire. I know there is a logical explanation for this but hey if there is someone out there who is struggling to get this mod to work and reversing the wires does work then by all means do it. Ive driven it around for 20 minutes (idle and some high revs) and both the hei and the coil are not extremely hot but warm to the touch. I will update after one week of driving and see what happens. After that week is up, then ill bridge the ballast resistor. Thank you guys for all your help! This has been both a little odd but fun mod!

Ok so update time! Been driving the car all week with the wires reversed and ballast resistor still active. Today was the day I wanted to bridge the ballast resistor. After I bridged it, it started up just as normal and ran fine. Only little issue was the Tach was freaking out. It was stuttering and all over the place. To rectify the issue I turned off the car, Reattached the resistor terminals to the resisted side and started it again. Tach functioned like normal. I had then Isolated it down to either the grounding was bad or the Blue in line resistor underneath the glove box area was not enough. So I cleaned grounds and bridged the resistor to 12 volts again... same thing, tach all over the place. I then grabbed a 5k Potentiometer I had made with bullet connectors and put it in line with the resistor. Tach functioned fine until I revved and then acted slightly erratic again but not too much. Which told me that I needed a higher resistor. Pulled out a 10k Potentiometer with bullet connectors and connected it just by itself and adjusted the knob to about halfway and started the car. Tach worked perfectly and if it was a little slow I would just turn down the knob a little. Ill be driving all this week with it on 12 volts. I even cleaned and gapped the spark plugs for the new spark it will be receiving.  

4 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

I'm not sure what is going on, but hey, it runs the way it should. Thats the main thing.

1 minute ago, Captain Obvious said:

I'm not going to get into which direction is right for your application, but those two wires... the red and the green... Are polarity dependent and can certainly have an effect if reversed.

Most (if not all?) ignition module systems use the falling edge zero crossing as the trigger. It's the most reliable point of the pickup signal.

 

 Honestly I have no idea whats going on and why the reversing of wires works. Im going to keep the old ign box with me just in case this is a fluke and keep the ballast resistor on just so its easy to swap the old ign box back in if the hei goes haywire. I know there is a logical explanation for this but hey if there is someone out there who is struggling to get this mod to work and reversing the wires does work then by all means do it. Ive driven it around for 20 minutes (idle and some high revs) and both the hei and the coil are not extremely hot but warm to the touch. I will update after one week of driving and see what happens. After that week is up, then ill bridge the ballast resistor. Thank you guys for all your help! This has been both a little odd but fun mod!

14 minutes ago, kyle146 said:

And as soon as i put the hei back on, timing is off and it runs like crap. Again out of curiosity I reversed the red and green to see if it would rn and it starts up with no problem. Going to try to see if it will rev past the 3000 mark

Ok wow no clue whats going on but reversed the green and red and timing is right and revs all the way up and no issues whatsoever. I literally have no idea why it works with the wires reversed but it does. The timing is right, the advance is right and the acceleration is right. Im now running the green wire on top and the red on bottom and it works perfectly. I definitely did not reverse any wires so Im not exactly sure whats going on?

21 minutes ago, kyle146 said:

Ok so just out of curiosity, i unplugged the HEI and put the old module back in. The car fires right up and the timing is exactly where it needs to be. 

And as soon as i put the hei back on, timing is off and it runs like crap. Again out of curiosity I reversed the red and green to see if it would rn and it starts up with no problem. Going to try to see if it will rev past the 3000 mark

37 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

Better to remove the distributor to adjust the rear screw and then do the timing again.

Ok so just out of curiosity, i unplugged the HEI and put the old module back in. The car fires right up and the timing is exactly where it needs to be. 

1 minute ago, EuroDat said:

Good to hear you found the problem.

Your timing issue is probably a incorrsct positioned distributor mounting plate. The distributor has two adjustments. The one you use on the front side of the distributor and the other is at the back. The back one is hard to get to and under the distributor. It's an M5 with a 8mm hex head.

See photo. Please note the plate in the photo is for a 280ZX and looks a little different to the 280Z version

Ok so the bottom one is more of a rough adjustment and the top is the fine adjustment?