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YZFMax

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Posts posted by YZFMax

  1. Same happened to me on my 74.  Ended up being the fuse connectors.  Over time, the connections get a bit lose, I pinched it closer together and solved the issue.

  2. 2 hours ago, carrottoplives said:

    Hi YZFMax, would you be willing and able to sell a set of the end caps?  I’ve been searching for them for several months and would be very happy to buy a set.  Many thanks in advance for your consideration.

     

     

    @carrottoplives I posted the files above on comment #5, you can download them and have them printed. 

    Unfortunately I don't have access to a 3D printer at the moment, it's with my son who is away at school.

  3. 13 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:


    I really like this color, mine was resprayed at some point on its life but it’s the original color . If you look around today it’s popular again. Reddish/Orange. It’s not a true red as you know. The only color I might like as much is the green but it’s a close call. The Safari Yellow the 240z came is a great one too. My paint is a 20 footer. The body has several dings needs to be done again sometime but for now it’s just fine for me. I fear when I paint the Xenon air dam there might be a noticeable difference in color, and leaving black won’t look right either. First world problems


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I had my Xenon air dam painted when I had my car painted, and it turned out really good.  I also had my old lower valance that I took off repaired and painted at the same time, this will allow me to go back to the original front down the road if I felt like it.

     

    260zFront.jpeg

    • Like 3
  4. 1 hour ago, jonbill said:

    I'm using Speeduino.

    Interesting, was not aware of Speeduino.  I'm reading up on it and very intrigued with it's simplicity, might be a good fit as I'm only looking to add EFI for drivability.  

    Thanks for mentioning this.

     

  5. 54 minutes ago, jonbill said:

    I think there are downsides to joining the TBs, and limitations to using MAP for load. 

    on my engine, I've only got the brake booster on #6 vacuum tap. I'l use TPS for load and my regulator is a constant 46psi.

    dunno about AC tho! 

    Interesting, I've been getting conflicting information.  I plan on using Microsquirt as the ECU and one of the input it requires is MAP for load.  

    I will also need a vacuum line for my HVAC as this controls the vents inside the car (has nothing to do with the ITB setup)

  6. 6 minutes ago, duffymahoney said:

    You will need to get a vac signal from each runner and combine somehow, either in a vac log or vac tank.  Then send that to the map signal and the fuel pressure.  Brake can run off the same spot on the manifold.  

     

    My favorite new throttle bodies are the Borlas.  The fact that they have the vac on each runner is a huge plus.  

    Thank you!  This really helps.

  7. I'm n the process of converting my 260z (stock motor) from dual carbs to EFI ITB.  Started to collect the various parts and doing my homework. 

    I have a good understanding on the conversion but still not clear on how the vacuum lines should be set up.  The ITB intake manifold I have has a single vacuum nipple which is used for the brake booster.  When I convert this to EFI:

    1. Can I leverage the same vacuum line and add a T? 
    2. Or is it better to tap into all the intakes and hook this up to a vacuum manifold? I will have to drill holes and tap into this if I take this route.

    I thinking I will need the vacuum to connect to the following:

    • Brake booster
    • Fuel regulator
    • MAP sensor
    • HVAC controls (my car has factory AC)

    Thanks!

  8. 5 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

    Can I get the STL file? 😬

    if you end up printing ABS your going to need to get an enclosure for it, ABS does not like temperature fluctuations.

     

    I build mine out of some wood and put a plexiglass door on it, it’s been pretty effective. I upgraded the feeding mechanism on it too, it was worth the money the prints look way better.

     

    https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Printer-Upgrade-Capricorn-Extruder/dp/B07V5VJ29X/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=3d+printer+upgrades+ender&qid=1610345402&sr=8-10

     

     

    image.jpg

    Perfect, thanks for tips.  Will look into this for sure as I do plan on printing with ABS.  

    I'll send you the STL file via PM.

    260zDoorTrimEndRH3.stl 260zDoorTrimEndLH3.stl

  9. 9 minutes ago, Jeff Berk said:

    I've got several parts on my '74 thanks to my son's printer.

    Agreed.  Didn't realize how useful it would be until my kids picked one up. 

    I also ended up making a blank plate to fill in where the fuel light would go on the center console.  There's a few more things I have in mind to make, but this will be for another time.

     

     

  10. 4 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

    I purchased a garage door high lift kit from DDM Garage Doors.

    https://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/garage-door-high-lift-conversion.php

    The installation wasn't too rough although if you've never had to install or adjust torsion springs before, it could get a little unnerving. You also will have to buy a jack shaft, wall mount opener or just learn to raise and lower the door by hand which is what I do.

    I had also looked into two post lifts but they have some issues like being a permanent installation by having to be bolted to the floor, requiring a thicker concrete floor than normally found in residential garages,  and I feel safer with the car supported for long term storage by four posts, each with it's own lock.

    BTW: All the photographs appear to show clean garages and at least two really cool cars. I'm jealous. 

    I used the same place to get my high lift kit about 10 years ago.  It was a high quality kit and the instructions were decent.  This was my first attempt at upgrading my garage door and it turned out very well.  I also added a jackshaft garage door opener which is a must if you're taking this route.

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