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I am going to use urethane for the TC rod, but my car is on a rotisserie, and everything rusty or tweaked has been replaced. One good thing about it, most of the bushings(except those in the spindle pin area are easy and fairly quick to change out if you choose wrong. Will

The suspension Video from Z-therapy shows the it being necessary to raise the engine lightly to replace the rack bushings(nothing disconnected, just a jack under the engine with suitable cussion for the oil pan. Will

While I understand your thought, I don't get the connection. Carl wasn't trying to defraud or hide from anyone, and as far as I know faking his death would not accomplish anything for him, the only thing I can find that some people believe he owed was apologies-I think his response to your post would have been something to the effect of: either "ten characters": or, far more probably, he would have told you in photographic detail where to go, what to do when you got there, and how long to keep doing it, and then posted a picture to make sure there was no confusion about the instructions-you would have had only moments to see his response before it would have been gone, and his next post would have been help for a problem on YOUR z. Will

I found Chris's post right after he he put it up, and have been thinking of what to write ever since, and it has finally come to me. With Carl, he never hid what he thought, so you always knew where you stood. Diplomacy was not his strong suit, but honesty was. He took friendship as a great reponsability, and had great fun with it until seriousness needed to be had. It takes a strong man to say what he feels and still be supportive when his feelings are in opposition to that action. I didn't know Carl that long, but I am glad my life was graced with his. Carl had words with several here, but I think most of them realized that if what ever the issue was not important to him, he would not have wasted the effort. He cared about people, and more often than not that ment being tough(even abraisive) with them. He and I poked fun at each other and conversed about things that were troubling to him somewhat frequently-on and off post. His posts (those that were not removed for being "argumentative") reveal a good bit about him, he knew Zs, wanted the best from people, had very distinct and clearly defined opinions and was mighty quick to fervently defend them. Carl loved this club to the point of supporting it by giving freely of his time to do several jobs in it for as long as he could. One of his greatest personal losses was backing off from his committments here. Carl loved dirty jokes, and silliness, I wonder what they will actually find in his garage... Will

HybridZ would be your best Z related site, but I would check with the SBC guys. Will

Looks pretty much like one of the two I pictured-I'll see about getting some pictures of the undersides. Will

Most of what I do now is tig, I use this http://tinmantech.chainreactionweb.com/html/tm2000.php for aluminum, and follow this chart http://www.saftgard.com/anonymous/catalog/Welding.pdf (I go one shade darker) for steel. Will

I believe those are early 80s factory maxima wheels. Will

Here is another example of variation within the series 1 cars. I have two different console finishers, one has the word "on" embossed into the marker switch location, and one does not. Also one has the throttle opening as only 1/2 the slot and taped over while the other has the entire slot open.

Sorry about my late return, I am glad someone filled in. Will

One of the on-line Datsun roadster suppliers has original Amco shift knobs for sale at a great price. Will

For steel with a mig I use a Harbor Freight solar mask, I have used several big buck auto masks, and all of them will cause my eyes to itch with an hour or more use, the best protection is an appropriate articulated dark shade-while it is a pain to work around, used apropriately, your eyes will not itch no matter how long you use it. The auto darkening masks darken as the uv is generated, and do allow miniscule levels of uv into your helmet and using through time does allow the effects to accumulate(Itchy eyes is the proof), the standard shield allows no uv into the helmet, so you accumulate only uv free time and the frustration off having to move the helmet before and after each pull of the trigger. I have gotten where I close my eyes as I pull the trigger and open them immediately after-it does not stop the itching, but it does extend the time it takes for it to start. I also give my eyes at least a full day between welding more than an hour at a time. Will

Have you got either a FSM or the club CD? (The neighbors would not bee too happy if I went out and pulled off the squeegee and snapped the flash at 12:30am) but here is a search on it. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=254212 Will PS I can post a picture tomorrow.

BuDavid, you are spot on! Urethane for predominantly horizontal load, rubber for predominantly vertical load-ie steering rack bushings rubber, steering isolator urethane. Will

All of the stainless in a Z is magnetic, this includes all of the window trims and frames, exterior lock covers, side marker frames and mounting screws, and the small surrounds around the opening for the taillights in the finisher panels. Originally the front and rear windshield trim and door squeegies were semi polished and the quarter window frames and door window channels were satin finished. Magnetic stainless is more maleable-or it was in the late 60s and 70s. Will

Sounds like the perfect mechanical shape would warrant spending the energy to correct the electrical system-it could be that the lights, fuel pump,and AC clutch are enough load to tap out your alternator, and thereby max out its parasitic drag. The AC clutch is enough to dim the lights and seriously impede the windshield wiper action in every stock 240z electrical system I have encountered. The easy test, Start the car with nothing on, one at a time turn on the required lights and then the AC, all while watching the AMP gage. You have the straw that maxes the drag from the camels alternator! Will

One cause could be junk in the line/pre-filter. Usually a fuel pump will make noise under only three conditions: 1) Restriction up or down stream of the pump-includes being low on gas. 2) Wear in the mechanism. 3) improper voltage. Will

There is a roller in the middle of the top of the door(located under the squeegee, odds are yours has come loose(pressure fit) or the roller has dried out and crumbled-check and replace as necessary. Will

Enrique is right, the car knows how much money you have, and it is measuring your value of it. Once the car is comfortable with how much you value it, the money test will dissapear-unless your significant other situation changes-then it will start again unless the car becomes the siginifant other. If the car gets worried another love interest is getting in the way, repair bills will get as high as dependability will get low. There are a couple of threads on this phemomenon, so I would reproduce them here, but it sufices to say Enrique is right, when a Z guestions its worth to its owner it becomes a high maintenance woman! Will

Yikes! I will obviosly be flying in via Delta and visiting sans Z! ) Willl

Urethane-no shock absorbtion, rubber, too much shock absorbtion meaning rubber gives a cushy ride, and Urethane gives a harsh ride. A mix of both makes for a comfortable well handling ride, all urethane gives a very precise but harsh ride. Don't forget Ebay, I picked up the set for $135 shipped. Will

Fritobeandipo? Hey, he passed on the "special" VWesque paint job!!! But Inquiring minds may have to make the trip... Will

For small raw or plated steel parts, Ziplocks and cosmoline-but put plastic parts in loose paper-some plastics will react to other plastics-and I don't want to find out I had a chemistry problem two years after the fact! Oil on chrome plate is not an issue, but some paints will discolor from prolonged oil exposure. Wax the painted parts. Will

Hence the ";)" !) WILL