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Gl Grand Luxury Not all GLs had digital, but they did have power windows and an automatic Hvac system(thoroughly complicated, but worked pretty well until trouble then became something to be hated profusely), leather, lumbar and back support adjustment seats, rack and pinion power steering, and they were denoted by a "J" in the vin. (I have an '82GL) The 2+2 meant there are a second pair of small foldable seats, the quarter windows are able to be opened and closed, and they were available with every option the 2 seater version had. Will

Mike is right on. Gary too. Check the directions on the paint or at the paint store-in most multi stage systems, clear has a window of application, some allow "color" sanding and some don't. Paints that do can really be made unbelieveable when the stages are properly done. Will

One thought-you did replace the lines with ONLY high pressure fuel injection hose-right? The Boobs at the parts counters around here have always tried to sell me regular old fuel hose-even when I asked for the good stuf. If the hose isn't stamped with a high pressure/fuel injection hose replace it and go chew the parts guys-if will fail at the worst time and could cause your car to burn along with what ever is inside... I hope I am just having a sympathetic vibration from DZR... Will

My bad!:eek: I thought some of that went with out saying-relative to what I did say(and what has been on the front page of late(Series 1 interior among others)), but I didn't mention the 240K and Skyline, not because they aren't important(THEY ARE!), but because of the clearly defined scope of question (finding "new to Z info") in the original post. Will

It is good to know I am not the only one... Will

John, Your link takes me here! Homepages Service Error 404 occurred Not Found ! The requested document or URL could not be found on this server. These are possible reasons that you received the error message: The host you are trying to contact may not exist. The host does exist, but the file you are asking for doesn't. The host does exist, but only as an alias (or additional A record) for another host. Try examining the reverse DNS for the host you are trying to reach, and if the reverse lookup yields a different host name, try that one instead. The host does exist, but you are trying to refer to it by IP address rather than host name. Use the host name instead of the IP address. Homepages Help | About | AUP | FAQs | Tutorials These pages are designed and maintained by Demon Webmasters. If you have any queries or comments about the Demon World Wide Web pages or other services, please contact us

I guess that's not rust under the rear bumper...and in the seam above the rear bumper, and in the hatch shelf..and on the DS dogleg...Ds rear fender... Must have been a hell of a 32K miles... No shots of the problems areas. One picture shows a bent up battery access door-but none of the others do 0 feedback Still, worth a closer look... WIll

Post the following pictures a side view with all four wheels sitting on the ground(pictures from both sides, taken at the front axles-with the steering wheel in the straight ahead position). the same views with the front jacked up on both sides and level with the front wheels removed. a picture straigt down each frame rail with the car jacked up on both sides, and steering wheel pointed straight ahead. A picture of the engine compartment with the front jacked up. These pictures will show any flex or bend of the chassis that could cause this situation. When you say it has a bodykit, which one? Post a picture of the kit, or a link to it. WIll

One Note, off all the sites out there, this is the only one with posting ability that is specific to Early (1970-1978) Z cars. All but one of the other sites mentioned cater to ALL Zs. There is not other web repository with the depth and bredth of the Selection, care and feeding of a 240Z. That is not to say that other sites don't have good or even great information, simply that they are not where you will find a multitude of people with a 240Z as a daily driver. I am not trying to offend anyone, but where else can you search the notes, tips, tricks, etc of 11562 240z enthusiasts and owners with almost 180,000 posts that are relevant to the 240, 260 and 280zs?(I had to take off some for the Boobs thread, and the like), 354 of those members have visited the site since midnight last night and 8:30 this morning! I don't know of another site with that kind of S30 specific participation. Don't underestimate the value of what you will find by searching the archives here. If it has happened in, to, or for a stock or near stock 240Z you will find it here. Will

I am coming up to Waynesville/Maggie Valley next month. That looks like an aftermarket turbo kit on a nonturbo car. The vin would make it clear, but there are absolutley some kit pieces under the hood, and it wouldn't make sence to me to go from a 15" factory wheel that came standard on the turbo cars to a 14 aftermarket rim-edven if they are prettier. I might have to take a look-might be worth $500 for the kit. Will

Any hotel deals going on? Will

I resemble that remark if you take off seven years and add 55 lbs! Take the dash out... , I would... Will

Quoted from: http://www.aus-ford-uk.co.uk/html/wheels.html (skip down about half way...) "Among Australian Ford fans, this wheel is probably the most admired, sought after and possibly misunderstood wheel of all. Hopefully, we can unravel some of the mystery. The Bathurst Globe wheel was originally designed and produced by Globe Products of South Australia who were contracted to produce 200 sets to fit to the XA GTHO Phase4 Falcon, which was to be the basis for Ford’s continuing onslaught in the touring car wars in Australia in 1972. However, when the ‘supercar’ hysteria broke out, and the Phase4 was cancelled, Ford were left with the 200 sets. They were also left with no where else to go in their racing program but back to using the XY based Phase3 as their race car. This, of course, resulted in the appearance that Ford, while selling XA’s from their showrooms, were racing ‘last year’s car’. In an attempt to keep the Phase3 competitive, Ford gave away the 200 sets of wheels to Phase3 owners, so that they could be homologated for use in late 1972 in XY GTHO Phase3 race cars. There were good reasons for this desire to use the Bathurst Globes. They were 7 x 15 inch wheels, one inch wider and one inch taller than the steel wheels used in the Phase3’s previous racing season. They were stronger than the steel wheels, they contributed to far better cooling of the car’s brakes, and they allowed access to a much wider range of racing tyre in 15 inch diameter, while also allowing road users to access lower profile - 60 series - street rubber. So, some points about the Bathurst Globe. The actual wheel, as manufactured by Globe products, was originally known by its model name, Daytona. Why ? Well, a look at the wheels fitted to Ferrari’s Daytona car shows from where the design was ‘inspired’. However, as time passed, and inspired by their introduction to the Australian motoring public by their appearance at and association with the 1972 Bathurst race, and Allan Moffat’s XY GTHO Phase3 Falcon, they have become, almost universally, ‘Bathurst Globes’ and the Daytona association has been largely forgotten." And who did Ferrari get the Wheels from? Either Boranni(wires) or Cromoroda(alloys)! Still, I like the greater relief in the Globe version! Will

What ever it is, it looks like a newer copy of a Cromodora wheel used in the late late 60s/early 70s on Ferraris and Fiats-still, looks good on the car-I'd like a set. Will

The speaker are attatched with a pair of phillips headed sheet metal screws, and are removeable from under the dash-be prepared for pretizleitus-or take the dash out and allow WIAAI to take over your day! Here are some more schematics/guides. Will

Just goes to show you Mother Nature Drives A Z! Will

The only question I would have would be the thickness of the paint. The shot of the data plate at the door opening shows that the prep work on the car wasn't to great-that doesn't mean it is a bad situation, only that a little more investigation is in order. Fresh paint, fresh bodywork-sometomes freshly covered rust. That said, there are enough parts on the car that I agree with Chris, if the floors and the rails check oout(with a look inside the areas covered by the interior trim panels(ds rear quarter(antenna hole), dog legs, and rockers) you would probably be doing very well, and I wouldn't mind having the chance myself. Will

Install it then paint. No point in having to paint twice. Will

The part numbers you list look like they would be from a 72, just different revision sof the same part, but they do not come up as good partnumbers or list in a succession chain-in the USA version of FAST, and they are not in my December '72 revision of the 240Z parts book. Something appears to be wrong with the partnumber-I would ask for a picture of the actual tag. I have a spare set from a '72 I will check the part number in the next several days. Will

You have a couple of issues going on. 1) check the connections between the battery and the starter if they are good... 2) have your starter tested-it probably need new brushes. When the car turns over every time you turn the key, go to the next issue. Check for vacuum leaks in the intake plumbing(with the car running spray WD40 around the intake hoses, if the idle rises, you have a leak that could cause or contribute to the problem. Will

I would say start the car in the dark, pop the hood and watch for sparks! Will

The only reason I can think of is a dirty four letter word-that isn't in the autocensor program that protects us from obscenity! Will

Yep, I should have put in an "All of the above" choice as well! Will

I understand, Beer is the Primary Lubricant! It is a good thing the car won't run on it, imagine how much it would be! WIll

WHat is the worst problem you have ever had with your Z? Rather than try to read the minds of all of our members ,I grouped the problems, and even gave an out if your problems isn't really included in my choices. Be sure to elaborate, we want the whole story of what was wrong, and what you did about it-even the attempts that sounded good at the time but made things worse-like using a bigger hammer to try to remove a spindle pin and then moving on to the other side when it wouldn't comeout after beating the crap out of one end....