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hls30.com

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Everything posted by hls30.com

  1. Thanks Zack! Will
  2. What did your Z get for the holidays?? Did you buy her some new feet? Maybe a carb rebuild? Seat Covers, a fine new passenger seat warmer? A new years reloution to work on her? WHat ever she got, let us know about it!
  3. ANyone? Will
  4. Check the data plate on pass side fender well(in the engine compartment) you should find a plate screwed on there that has both the vin and the engine #. Will;
  5. hls30.com replied to Mike Abild's topic in Help Me !!
    You need: A center punch A 3/32nds lh drill bit An easy out Safety glasses, a very steady hand A good drill motor An afternoon and work area devoid of distraction. (it won't take that long, but having all afternoon to geter done will keep you from rushing and breaking off the easy out-and making the problem worse. Make sure the car is highenough off the ground to get the drill with the bit in place where it needs to go comfortably, and that the car is safely supported with jack stands or ramps.. Put on the safety glasses. Clean the break, and center punch it to get a good starting place for the drill bit. Drill the hole straight into center of the bolt-following the path of the bolt(don't get the bit off center and drill out of the bolt.) The remnant of the bolt may well come out while drilling-if you used the left hand twist bit. If not line up the easy out and carefully feed it into the hole as per its instructions. If all goes acording to plan-you will get the piece out of the hole with no new damage. The key here is know what you are going to do, and how you are going to do it. If you feel frustration sneaking up on you-get out of theree-if you break off the easy out, or get the bit into the bolt catywhompass-the problem will get worse fast. Go slow, and be patient , if you feel you need to force something, force yourself to take the car to a mechanic and let him deal with it! Will
  6. The weatherstrip between the housing and the body is available-bought my most recent one from VB-er Black Dragon(WHat were those guys thinkin?)-readily available from several sources. Just use non-hardening weatherstip adhesive for the lense to the housing(white or tan to be orig. color) Will
  7. Try Charley Osborne at Zedd Findings, or any/all of the other used parts sources. Will PS, I'm sure Chris will chime in too, but if the vin matches the engine number in a 240Z, you probably have a serious paperwork issue to correct with the P.O. )the car vin/data plates are probably not be original, and the paperwork will probably have been falsified) I have never seen a 240Z with a engine number matching the vin-though I have absolutely not checked every 240Z. Will
  8. Yes, the rear trim panel comes out to remove the taillights. The taillight assembly seals to the body with a weaterhstrip compacted by the six or eight nuts on studs holding the housing to the body. The lens is glued in with a non-hardening seamsealer like material. Taking the whole thing apart, cleaning and putting it all back should take less than an hour. Will
  9. Alan, I appreciate your insight, and your explanations. As you know, I do think of all variations of S30(S31s) as a family. what I am trying to collect here is a record of the DNA alterations within that that family-actually to get at the changes that were undocumented(as far as I have found) by Nissan-no part number change accompanied the part change-and more probably due to the interpretation of parts suppliers. For instance: There were three heater fan control knob variations that I have(so far I have only pictured two), but only two part numbers are listed in the parts books. There is only one part number for an antenna, yet, there are at least three variations in the trim(embossed hitachi insignia, satin finished, no embossing and satin finished, and polished and chrome plated) There is also only a single part number for the heater control panel vent, yet there are two variations, one with no supporting webbing, and the later one with. I want to show the differences that appeared through the life of the The entire family of 240Z cars, those that the factory called for, and those that it evidently didn't notice. Will
  10. Chris and Everyone, OOPs-Sorry for both my assumption and misinformation. Will
  11. Here are a few more, these I don't have a history of-I didn't pull them, but they were in USA version cars. WIll PS, I will label the images and repost each of them as I find their suspected part numbers and issue dates.
  12. Thanks Alan, That is exactly the type of suggestion I am looking for, but I would like the parts variation defined by the person posting the parts as to what car/market/year it came from, and a consensus on where it actually appeared-IE #26 was manufactured in 69, but had seatbelts dated '72-obviously replaced somewhere along the way.... I would certianly love photos of any/all '68-'73 S30/S31s parts-but labled appropriately for the market they came from-I just recently got a copy of the S30-Gs30, S30 S31-GS30 GS31, S30 PS30 jdm manuals(man the art work is fine in them!). As a matter of fact, I will be posting a Rhd headlight combination switch, and several other rhd pieces I have and contrasting them to the LHD variety, but I will wait untill the flow of this thread gets to the point that establishing some standards is at more of a consensus-I have found no evidece of something like this having been tried before, and because I know my own limitations in terms of knowledge and experience, I asked Everyone to jump in and join the collective in getting the job done well.
  13. I will gather the rest of my variants over the next several days and picture them the same way. Please add as you can, and suggest as you will! I'll come back with part numbers and dates where I can find them. Will
  14. Hi everyone, I was going through some of my parts yesterday and researching what variation of trim parts went on what "series" 240Z. I thought it might be a good idea to start a thread(one location) to show all of the variations of different parts that went into 240zs as they were manufactured. My thought is to collect all of this info on this thread, and create a technical article that could help in defining a correct "what went when" parts time line and maybe help out in the creation of judging documentation that Carl Beck is working on. My thought is to post side by side pictures of the variations of parts at a standardized background to make the formatting of the final document easier. My thought is to use a sheet(or more) of Quadrille paper (1/4" graph paper) as a background, and take as close a picture as your camera is clearly capable of. (the high res images could and would be resized for a standard format for the final documents)- please add your thoughts! This way all parts could be identified and illustrated with part numbers and (hopefully rough apropriate dates) to make a correct restoration easier. Here are some examples to start the ball rolling. To my knowledge all of the parts pictured in this post are USA version-as they were all removed from LHD cars I have purchased or located salvage yards in the southeastern United States. Will
  15. Jim, You have exactly what I am talking about-mine have the same numbers. Zac, I have not found part numbner for a heater control panel avaiable as an assembled unit, but I purchased the controls and the panel new old stock from the dealer, and the "boots" in question were not included. Will
  16. The heater control panel in a '73 240Z is backlit. The green tinted portion of the hcp is lit on each side by a light bulb. There are two rubber surrounds that keep the light from the bulbs from illuminating the inside and underneath of the dash. The two I have taken out are pretty well dryrotted, and I have been searching for the part numbers for them for several days. I was able to find one, but not the other. I have been through the club fische, the 260/240 USA/Canada parts manual, and Nissan FAST. The dealer has told me (incorrectly) that these parts were not from a 240Z. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will take and post some pics tomorrow-dead batteries... Will
  17. Welcome to the club, interesting first question. Because of the structure of 240Z, I would hope that you wouldn't be looking at anything more than a bicycle holder, more than 100lbs or so past the hatch(tongue weight, relative to the rear wheels) would not be good for the handling(the front end is light enough at speed) or the suspension of the car. While towing a trailer with little or no tongue weight would be doable, the brakes in a 240Z certianly are not up to towing much of a trailer-before adding contents, so consider brakes on almost any trailer a necessity. A hitch would need to be attatched to the bottom of the spare tub, and/or either side of it, and formed to exit under the bumper. A body colored plug would make it less noticeable when not in use. What year is your car? I have a '72 on a rotisserie-so taking measurements would be easy. Will
  18. You need to do something REALLLLLLLY nice for Dave, he GAVE you that car! -or did you just have the tow truck sneak up therre in the middle of the night, hook up and leave a check in the mail slotROFL ? Will
  19. Jake, I have one, PM me. Will
  20. Thanks for the comments! The actual glass is a prism, resilvering makes no change to the opperation of the mirror. Will
  21. There are 4mb sd cards avaiable on ecost.com pretty inexpensively-I just bought a couple-be sure to meet or exceed the write/read speed that the camera needs. Will
  22. Most of the Cannons DVs have optical image stabilization-meaning that unlike those that have digital stabilization, you do not stablilze the shot at the expense of resolution. I have been through several of the upper end consumer camera(most recently the Optura Xi-just couldn't justify the XL2 for purely home use), and they have done wonderful jobs in every cirucumstance from handheld in a biplane cropduster to sitting on a bean bag on the dash. I would also suggest a polarized filter(video camera specific) to cut the glare from the windows of cars you pass(or heaven forbid-that pass you!) What ever you choose, get it from http://www.bhphotovideo.com/ -they will match serious and confirmable prices, but can't be touched in terms of service-I've used them for fifteen years and never had an issue that wasn't resolved to my complete satisfaction or beyond. Will
  23. I hope you have what ever kind of holiday you may or may not wish for! Will
  24. $300 for a perfect dash is a no brainer. Buy it, figure out what you want to do. If you want out, put the dash on ebay and watch someone throw about a thousand dollars your way, then either give away the remains, or ebay the rest! If you want to get into the car-you have a great dash to start with! Will
  25. Have you sent the supplier those pictures? If so how far will he go to put money behind his answer? But when I checked yours with what I have in the garage, KGK and Felpro three of the four look like your pictures(two are in complete gasket kits bought for an L28ET), one matches up right, it isn't in the box, but ods are it is a Nissan Piece. Will
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