hls30.com

PM sent! If anyone has a 260z FSM or Owners manual-those we don't have! I am headed out of town today, and if the hotel has internet access, I will be generating a list of the FSMs and owners manuals we are missing-I will also put those down that have been promised but not yet received. Will

Here nSavannah, You have to dye your hair and skin green, wear green undeware, green socks and shoes, green shirt and shorts, drink green beer from a green mug while in a green boat on a-you guessed it green river-with your green politically correct significantly green significant other! We are expecting 700,000 green visitors to adopt our green city for this green weekend of green beer and Green everything else! I will be watching for the Girls Gone Green cameras! A green weekend to all! Will

When you cant make up your mind, the best thing to do is start with what both options will require-get rid of the rust!! While you are doing that, consider this-as Gary pointed out: If you build a stock class show car, she will be beautiful. She will be at her most valuable, but she probably won't be driven very much, as every spec of dust will have to come off before a show. If you build her for your enjoyment, you still can keep her just as clean, but she will put a smile on your face much more often than the occasional show, You will be able to build history with her, and not dedicate her to preserving it. I am building a mildly modified car that is already entered in the Daytona show. It will be a drivers car, it is made mostly by me completely for me. It will have most of the things I love about a 240Z slightly accentuated, and most of the things I am not so happy with in a 240Z modified out, and a few things the 240Z didn't have. All of the work I put into this car goes to satisfy me-and if somome else likes my work-Wonderful! If they don't, that's OK too. In a Stock class car, there will be no room for changes, so if the 240Z isn't mighty close you your view of perfection, it becomes a matter of building a 1/1 model of a 30something year old car that should look almost exactly like every other 240z of the same year in the stock class. Having said that, I plan to do one too-but after I enjoy this one for a while, and find the right car to truely restore. Will

Either tap it out using and appropriately sized socket as a driver, or cut the sleve across itself and twist it out-I have used the socket driver method several times with great success! Will

SHowcarparts.com has them in fiberglass-but some have had poor service from them... Will

I am bidding on this to make a set of plugs for a pair of molds modified for a club project Tomohawk will be working on-making the pieces available inexpensively to build your own car in 1/10 scale-so you can race everybody else at the shows while you wait for track time! According to Tomohawk, 1/10 scale is big enough to put serious hardware and batteries into if you choose, but small enough to find inexpensive mechanicals too. Please don't bid up the price-you will be affecting the final price of the body kits(there will be atleast two-a rally version, a stock version, and one to get NUTZ with! The auction I am planning to win is here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=180096274977&rd=1&rd=1 Again, please forgo any selfish:angry: and evil :mad: plans to allow access for a club fundraiser.:classic: WIll

BY rethinking your stance on ToyotasROFL ! Then instead of selling the Turbo car, assuming it isn't an automatic, and is in good running condition, transplant the drivetrain to the 240Z-very little rethinking to be done, very few extra parts to buy, and in a couple-four long days-or a couple of weeks worth of short ones, the job is done. Check out Zhome, HybridZ and search google-the how to steps are there! Will

I don't know about an Oregon designer address-Mikes perhapse? Where did you get the address? I do have a July 1974 competition Parts book as listed in post #65 in the last several lines.

I used Marine epoxy resin (what is used to make built in boat fuel tanks) to repair pin holes in the bottom of my 280zx and to lock down the rust that I couldn't get out-this was before I found true gas tank repair materials. 11 years later, the tank still holds gas and has not been the source of any problems. AS to passing muster in the great white north-I have no idea-here in the hot humid south the powers that be don't even look at fuel tanks unless they step in a leak. Will

Kats, I agree with you, in the stock class of a car show there should be no difference between what it looks like and what it is! Will

MY laptop mouse strikes agian-the touch pad moves things with no warning from the heat of my hands... sorry for the apparent lapses in mental capacity. Will

EEEWWWW, a Proctological drama unfolds, and is still somewhat thread pertinant! Wow Zs are intertwined in life! WIll

It looks like my car will be getting its stock L24 for Daytona-I have planned to rebuild and use my set of tripple 40 dcoe 18s for it. I have a local Dyno, and changing out a maniflold and linkage isn't that labor intensive...still a ways off though. Will

A set of caps that were air filter plugs in their first life and found to fit the wheels perhapse? Will

Stephen, I have a copy of it, but in order to use it, and not have a copywrite issue, I have to have specific permission from the person who scanned it to include it in this project-so far I have not been successful in obtaining that. Tomohawk and Arne, Post 65 has everything I have received except an owners manual and some neat paperwork from Zbane! When I list, I list only what I have in hand, and not what I have been told is coming(except for the microfische). Because I have to be contacted for my address, anyone wanting to submit something that is already promissed gets an "I have one comming, but I'll let you know" letter so far, I haven't gotten two if but two pieces, and merging both gave a better copy, so thats what I did. I have not played with the sticky function-I'll read up on it and give it a go! I will update the list with what has been scanned, but other than the microfische, 90% has been-infact, I will be sending back some of the manuals that have been sent in as soon as I finish page by page verifying good scans. Will

Kats, Thanks for the great pictures! Will

I could be persuaded... Will

Do'oh! I just pulled his profile-didn't pay attention to the forum-good eye there mate! C David, I'm just that freakin' good! . . . . . . . NOT!:stupid: I am "one of those "kinds"":eek: ...that pulls a search on car-parts.com and cuts and "pasties" it! WIll PS, That metalflake paint:love: on your car is far more impressive than all of my tricks!

Welcome! You are in a good place for choices within Z cars. Make sure you use the search function and Zhome.com to familiarize yourself with what to look for and what to avoid! Post pictures if you would like some opinions on the cars you look at! Will

Aaron, Welcome to the club! I have several, but you can also try these: 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX (SOHC) turbo 00015462 $350 Forest Auto Parts USA-ID(Lewiston) E-mail 1-800-967-5228 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX (SOHC) w/turbo C2311 $350 Forest Auto Parts USA-ID(Lewiston) E-mail 1-800-967-5228 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX W TURBO REBUILDABLE CORE CK KD 7-20- CORE $275 Nissan Only Wreckers USA-CA(Rancho-Cordova) E-mail 1-800-869-7914 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX P90 REBUILDABLE CORE CK MIK 05-03 REB $275 Nissan Only Wreckers USA-CA(Rancho-Cordova) E-mail 1-800-869-7914 1982Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX P90A REBUILDABLE CORE CK MIK 05-03 REB $275 Nissan Only Wreckers USA-CA(Rancho-Cordova) E-mail 1-800-869-7914 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX P90 REBUILDABLE CORE CK MIK 05-03 REB $275 Nissan Only Wreckers USA-CA(Rancho-Cordova) E-mail 1-800-869-7914 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX W TURBO REBUILDABLE CORE CK KD 7-20- CORE $275 Nissan Only Wreckers USA-CA(Rancho-Cordova) E-mail 1-800-869-7914 1982Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX NON-ADJ.LIFTERS,NEED S SHAVING.001 SIMPOR $250 Aberdeen Used Cars and Parts USA-NC(Aberdeen) Request_Quote 1-800-422-8460 1982Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX B0912 M669 $250 A-1-A Auto Parts, Inc. USA-FL(Lakeland) Request_Quote 1-800-922-9676 1982Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX TURBO 306U $250 All Foreign Auto Salvage, Inc. USA-MA(East-Bridgewater) E-mail 508-587-0222 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 Z,ZX (SOHC), w/turbo- W13277 $200 Gerry's Foreign Auto Parts USA-WA(Kittitas) E-mail 1-800-848-5578 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 Z,ZX w/Turbo- 1165 $200 Jack's Used Cars and Parts USA-MA(North-Billerica) Request_Quote 1-888-873-5225 1982Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 Z,ZX (SOHC), w/turbo- CHECKED-U Z475 $175 Blake's Small Car Salvage, Inc. USA-CO(Erie) E-mail 1-800-665-4326 1982Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX SOHC , TURBO- 5M220 $175 3M Auto Dismantling USA-CA(San-Jose) E-mail 1-408-998-8661 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX AR3201 $150 A & R Foreign Car Parts USA-DC(Washington) E-mail 1-202-526-4447 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX SOHC , TURBO- P-90 P951 $150 H and W Auto Salvage and Sales USA-MO(Springfield) E-mail 1-877-665-5444 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX YD3044 306 $150 Mid Island Auto Parts, Inc. USA-NY(Deer-Park) E-mail 1-800-414-9726 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX TURBO USED PULL OFF 29661 $150 Manuel's Used Auto Parts USA-TX(Pasadena) E-mail 1-800-435-5748 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX TURBO #H326 $150 Tri-City Auto Parts USA-TN(Bluff-City) E-mail 1-800-576-5231 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX TURBO WITH CAM $125 Hokes Bluff Auto Parts USA-AL(Gadsden) E-mail 1-800-824-0202 1982Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX 3-82,FI,2.8L,NTC 982807 $125 Atlas Foreign Used Auto Parts USA-TX(Pasadena) E-mail 1-800-801-0297 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX GOOD NOF $60 Harbor Auto Used Part Division USA-MA(Lynn) E-mail 1-781-593-3344 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX 6CYL,TURBO C73952 $50 21 Motors, Inc. USA-NC(Hamptonville) E-mail 1-800-672-2541 / 1-336-723-4300 1981Head(Cylinder)Nissan 280 ZX 6CYL,TURBO C73952 $20 21 Motors, Inc. USA-NC(Hamptonville) E-mail 1-800-672-2541 / 1-336-723-4300 Hopefully one of these is close to you. If you had filled out your profile, I would have shortened the list for you...Realize these are listed to be sold and you need to call about condition and any garantees-other wise you may get a heavy warped and shaved paper weight for your money! Will

Carl, I like your groupings, I fall into B working on C and 3 and 4, all part of the process of working toward E! The synergy between 3, B, and C is what lead me to the posting of this thread.

John, I have attended Amelia Island show several times, and you are spot on, I remember my first time, getting up the morning of the judging at 0:dark thirty to get pictures with no one around and seeing some of the prep work the owners/display companies did. A paticular 60s Ferrari was being prepped and the started it on the seventh try, sounded great when it finally running and better as it warmed up, but the volumes of blue smoke it filled the field with were absolutely amazing! I checked over the car pretty well, and found sanding marks, overspray covered by a quick shot of black shoe polish, and a great number of similar shortcuts-the car judged much higher than it deserved, and my immediate thought was "these judges must be paid commission on the cars that change hands here." I watched the car being judged, I spent more time looking over it than they did, and in my 10 minutes I found details lacking that My first attempt at a paint job had. Much akin to a review of a product by a magazine that has the parts manufacturere as its largest yearly advertiser-too much connective tissue to allow an objective review-they saw a RED Ferrari, and I saw a red 30 footer. Will

Overall a very nice car, the tailights and the fog light placement though interesting, aren't my taste. Will Ps whats the shiney bit peeking through the grill?

I have to agree with Carl, it is a pretty car, but not one I would pay that much for. Will