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Rick, Don't laugh, but I thought you were making some seriously offhanded remark about the computer issues you have had... I hadn't considered tounge:p weight(especially in light of the subject of so many of your other threads ya perv:eek: !) as your meaning. I have an enclosed 26'6" car hauler that has made very short work of moving several of my friends belongings from house to house! I recently added serious volumes of insulation and a heat pump to it. Adding the heat pump did significantly add to the tongue weight(all ahead of the wheels) and noticeably change the balance of the trailer:tapemouth , but I just counter it with placement of the load-26'6" is a lot of length to place a Z in...with plenty left to hold a 12V refridgerator, and to stretch out a hammock! With the heat pump, refridgerator, a grill, a hammock and an airbed, if my "she who must be obeyedLOL " ever pitches me out in the back, I've a fluxuray flat to flop in! With as much trouble as he gets into, that's probabaly why Rick bought his driveable guesthouse, so I can't lay first claim to the idea:cross-eye :laugh: ! Will PS Tomohawk, that all sounds like loo talk to me!

Hadn't checked the pricing...hard to beat an inexpensive factory part! Will

A simple ABS form... inexpensive, good durability, embossed grain-no rust-ever! Will

Personally, if the music is undistorted, it can't get too loud(assuming we are talking about MUSIC). But...if there is more noise coming from things that were not made a part of the car specificly to reproduce music, or if there is audible distortion not on the original recording, I get "too old" on a hurry! I hate installations where the system has not been addressed, and the installer quits before the job is complete! If there is a rattle the job isn't finished... Will

Every one of these I have ever seen is a thin gage steel wrapped with vinyl. I am working on a set in stainless steel for my car. I considered Al, but chose stainless because of finish durability. Will

looks like a $5-7k modified car to me, absolutely NOT a restored car. A "frame up restoration" includes the frame, running gear, and none of that has been touched other than to apply some undercoating... I see the potential for too many issues under too much gloss! Rust in the rear fenderwells-and viods... tweaked rear bumper oil all over the engine(wiped to expose blue paint, but not thoroughly cleaned... as mentioned the dash cover wrong rear strut covering Hatch and hood are not fitted properly serious chips in the paint of the clock fresh undercoating on old paint(underside of the car) Crack at the core support newer shift boot aftermarket shift knob missing emblems aftermarket Parted hatch carpet-could be a later body with the tool bins incorrect power antenna wrong lock on gas filler door This car would need some serieous going over...

I bought a three needle Singer serger off Ebay last year for $60 including shipping just for that purpose! It come without a motor, but can be "hand run". I spent about three hours cleaning it up, and getting to know it(circa 1900), seriously heavy duty, wick lubricated, but binds edges beautifully-cool and interesting machine! It will also bind books-I had forgotten this, but in light of a current project, it could prove useful! The prior set of carpets I made I took to an upholstery shop and had the edges bound-$40 and they wrapped every edge(even the strap holes) with the vinyl that matched my tunnel! I was happy with them, but I want this job to look more factory. I have seen an applied edge of some adhesive like material, but have no idea where to get it or what type of machine it would take to apply it-probably crushes the edges and saturates the fibers with goo! You might be able to use a door edge molding, it is "C" shaped and had an adhesive stripe down the center! If you are in driving distance of Savannah, you are welcome to come and give the serger a try. WIll

We are still discussing options, and I am hoping there will be interest in a group buy of the chassis assys so we can get a serious deal on some really exciting-and seriously upgradeable-hardware! With a group buy, we may get more clout for a member discount on upgrades as well My hope is to give all of the cars a similar starting point(just like our Zs) and then have as much custimization as a member wants to get into-even open the offering to any Z owner/enthusiast. Personnaly, I want a fast and exceptionally handling car to play with. At the moment, the body is on the way to me, and when it arrives, we will have more to go on... Will

classsictube is an excellent source! I used them for my roadster brake lines and they were first rate even through a mistake on my part! You can't go wrong! Will

Lets not forget that in modern cars, the constant refinement of the A/F ratio keeps gas out of the oil too. As many of our Zs are Carbureated we may get close, but we can't effectively tune the engine on every fourth revolution as many modern engine management systems can. Many books on Engine management system attribute a healthy percentage of the extended life of an efi based engine to the tuning if the A/F ratio that keeps the gas off the cyl walls and thereby out of the oil. Even The Jags that Run V8 conversion manual mentions it in speaking of suitable engines for transplant-in relation to the salvaged high mileage variety. I change the oil in my drivers every 3000 miles, and in the Dodge truck, it takes six to eight months to get there(at 11 mpg city, I leave it parked until I NEED hauling capacity)The truck is almost four years old and has just over 23,000 miles on it. I need to study Time vs viscosity! I don't wait for mileage to change the oil in a car parked longer. Will

They aren't as fast(unless you drop in an L28et!), they are more comfortable on a trip, but do sacrifice a wee bit of handling, but you have a Z you can put 2 adults and two childeren, or 11 college students into! I had a '76 as my first car-added the L28et and 15x8" rims after several years-Only a Grand National could beat me after that... A 240z is more sheer excitement,a 2 seat 280Z is more refined, but not as exciting to drive, and a 2+2 is less exciting still in standard form, but it is a Z, and there is a great deal to be said about that! An enjoyable car until you put a 240Z through its paces-unless you need the extra space. Now with two small childeren, it would be nice to take the entire family to a Z outing in one... Will

That was a left over from Sesame Street-their words I parrotted... Will

Give an old OEM switch a new life-you could even paint up the back lit marker-factory parts look factory even with a new use... WIll

TomoHawk, Here are some available in tall in the middle and round on both ends! These guys UPS all the time-and if they are local to your guy, they might have a delivery service...I would verify the laccuracy of the listing before ordering, and set up with your mechanic to have everything delivered no more than a couple of days before installation(to be able to use the return policy if needed). 1983 Transmission Nissan Maxima 82up 100,000 L1949 $125 Westwood Auto And Truck Parts USA-OH(Toledo) 1-866-317-9271 1983 Transmission Nissan Maxima 82up RWD Gas ENG 90,000 N3785 $125 Westwood Auto And Truck Parts USA-OH(Toledo) 1-866-317-9271 1983 Transmission Nissan Maxima A.T 0 A NOF $100 Marshalls Auto Parts, Inc. USA-OH(Circleville) 1-800-333-2104 these came from a car-parts.com search-there are probably more near Ohio as well. WIll Get'er done and we'll see you in Daytona!

There are foam pads on the underside of the valence panel in approximately that location, and they are known for holding water when wet. Looks like you may have that issue. Fortunately, removing that particular panel is relatively easy, remove the wipers, and the sheet metal screws under the edge of the hood, tilt up at the front and carefully pull the panel free. Those panels are also pretty plentiful, so finding a suitable replacement won't be difficult. Alittle prep and paint and you should be good! Will

Soundz all too familiar... Will

Everything collected and scanned so far will fit in less than 1gb-and we aren't missing nearly as much as we have! I will be making up a list of missing pieces tonight. Will Ps, simple file sze-no bookmarks or authoring yet~

They say great minds think a like-I guess this proves similar things happen lower in the scale! Fortunately a replacement glass isn't hard to cut or to have made. Will

Seems there could be an argument for personal deliveryROFL after all! Will

Sounds like she followed the right guy home this time! Welcome, Congratulations! and don't be a stranger! Will

I'd put dollars against doughnuts(or imported Beer) that Victor will be there...I is a little far from my beaten path!

I would try warm water first, and then move on to more powerful solvents-don't forget, if you use something that messes with the silvering, You might call Jerry for his expertise as well! He has probably been there and done that! Will

Ok, The 1/10 body is paid for and hopefully will be on the way soon! Will

You might purchase a second set of suspension components to keep the down time to a minumum, and to allow you to complete small bites of the project every week(keeps momentum, pride, and the project going!). That way too, you have the ability to keep the car whole and on the road except for a couple of hours to pull and replace the suspension... This part keeps everything neet, neighbors(or workspace owners) happy, and yet you get to keep a sense of accomplishment! Almost every part of the restoration can be done this way-and If you have a fellow club member with a parts car, you may not have to buy used parts to refurbish. If I didn't have a garage, that is what I would do. WIll

Bryan is being very modest, these pieces are terrific! Look closely, he has spent time in investigating and reproducing the details! These are all but indistinguishable from NOS pieces! You will not be dissappointed. Will