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Greg, Welcome! Congrats on the Z and the parts car! Post some pictures(of both!) when you get the chance, we love to covet our neighbors Z! There is a huge wealth of knowledgew, tips and tricks in the archies, and more pictures than you can shake a spindle pin at! We are mostly a friendly bunch, just don't misuse the "F" word in the furums and everything will be terrific. BTW the "F" word here is F**A**C**T**O**R**Y!:stupid: (long and horribly running joke...) Will

You know, I have always thought the inside waz bigger than it looked! I guess his is! Will

Hey, quit stirring the freakin' pot!! Nissan NEVER has had a Factory Restoration. Those cars-as beautifully restomoded as they are-are a part of what should be called the Nissan Marketing Department Restoration Program. 1)The last time any of the USA Zs with the plaques from the Nissan paid for restoration saw the Factory was way back in the early 70z... There is no such thing as a Nissan factory restoration program-the factory is in Japan! How can you have a factory restoration without going to the factory, or having the factory effectively moved. No Nissan payrol was used directly on the cars except on final pre and post restoration inspection and moving the cars to dealers-and maybe some warranty work after they were sold. 2)Not one of the cars was completely restored, every single one had a plaque installed in the console that never was put in the first Z in the early 70s-meaning by definition all were modified! That is not to say individual systems within the cars were not restored-they were, and beautifully! But a restoration is a restoration, and a modification is not! 3)The only direction for the entire method of the restoration of the program cars is a thirty something page fax that went out to several consumer restoration shops-not even a proper internal Nissan document! Chris...jump in with correction/comments any time! As a recap, Nissan Japan was invloved with only some parts sourcing for the program, virtually No Nissan Factory labor was used, the Factorys(even doemstic locations) certianly werent used, and virtually everything was handled on this side of the ocean, and by a third party for Nissan-if the factory restored those cars they are restoring mine as well, even as I type this they are tirelessly working in the garage...or is that the Keebler Elves... WIll

Do'oh!:eek: Will

I'll be doing this ina couple of weeks if no one beats me to it, I'll post pics. Will

If it(the question) was a mistake, in poor taste, offensive, or a duplicate, pm me, and I will get it taken care of. Will

Please tell me you have never taken your MOM any where in itROFL ! Will

One more thought, the L28ET was the final evolution of the L24! Granted it isn't your original engine, but it is in the original vein!

That much money for a valve cover-I 'd have to say the guy is either a ricer(cosmetic part only) or seriously into Z history(significant becuase of what it is and what it represents). I bet he's a member-ricers want new and gaudy, not old and nostalic. Will

That sounds like and could be a great idea! Before you leave this on your car you better make sure it is gasoline resistant! Pour a little gas in a bell jar, put in one of these gaskets, tighten the lid, and let is sit in the shade for a few days...If the gas doesn't change color, and the gasket is not changed.... Will

Most of what you are looking for is here: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html Will

Now before you guys go and get me knighted or set up for sainthood, lets not forget three things. 1) There are others who have done more for longer than I have, simply not as in the open. Mike for one, Carl Beck for another-I refer to both their sites when I get spindlepinned! Look in the archives here, every diamond was carefully placed by a member-what I do is a living and growing thank you to everyone who posts good info! 2) I love Zs-most of what I am doing here helps me as much as anyone else, I just choose to make those efforts help everyone instead of just me. Generally, the first of anything takes the greatest effort-I know that first stuck spindle pin took more than all the rest combined. 3) I want to further the hobby. That was a large part of what prompted the new club DVD project. Almost every member stated with a car and then started looking for help-what better help than factory documentation-granted having a retired Datsun trained mechanic around is actually more help, but hey, even with that, I want to occassionally screw thing up on my own before asking for help, and the Factory documentation allows us all to be more self reliant, and not impose on the kindness of others except when zabsolutely necessary. Will

THe only "chip" I have seen advertised for a 280Z is actually a resistor that goes inline with the temperature sensor and fools the efi into thinking the car is always cold to enrichen the mixture. There have been a few companies that modified the ecm on the board level, and sold the unit completely remapped, but because the ECM in a 280z does not have a removeable or modifiable eprom or the like, and because the ecm circuitry is not interchangeable over more than a two year period, there was no cost effective upgrade developed for the mass market like current "chip" upgrades. you can swap injectors, change the fuel pressure(increasing it pushes more fule through a given injector over the same pulse width), or change out the whole EFI system to another standalone system or even carbs! Most of this type of modification questions would probably be better asked on HybridZ.org. Most of the members here modify their cars only slightly if at all. On HybridZ pretty much anything goes...fast! That isn't said to push you off, only to get you to the site with more detailed answers from a greater number of members who have been, are going, or plan to go down the same road. Will

WHos weather strips did you get? Precision or someone else... Will

Ron, Thanks, I needed that too! Will

1) You have limited your upgrades to those that are slightly effective(10% claimed increase), big bucks(head work aint cheep) or are trial and error for a diyer. After a used 4:11 swap, Nitrous is without a doubt the biggest bang for the buck at retail. I am sure some of the seriously into Engines/racing guys will chime in here with some viable upgrades for you. 2)With enough money and time, anything is possable. 3) Depends entirely on the tranny and differential you end up with-there is a link to a calc floating around somewhere-I'll post it when I find it, but top speed and low 0-60 figures are pretty well mutually exclusive unless you swap the 5th gear to something really really tall... 4) see number 2 and read it twice! My answer isn't to be flippant, it is just to point out that almost everything in the automotive world is a trade off-you can't have a gain in one specification with out a loss somewhere else, and most of the time that translates to mean you can't have an older car that does everything well. Will

I don't have a picture, but; the gap goes in the center at the bottom-the least likely place it would cause a leak! Will

Paul, The right Dash cap is a good thing, Get a full one-the half caps are too easily identifiable-properly installed, most people will not notice a full cap. Here is the one in my '73('72 dash) http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14322&cat=500&ppuser=4106 MSA, VB, and most of the other vendors sell these: http://www.dashtops.com/dashboard/caryear.cfm The bad thing is the shipping for a cap if fairly steep, After straightening out my situation and getting the right cap, I actually sold the '73 cap on ebay for around $70-to a guy in Cali who lived around an hour from MSA. When I figured out shipping, I let him out of the purchase because he could get one cheeper from MSA than I could ship mine. Will

Google Bioperformance fuel pill... Will

You won't have that issue on a '73, if you had a '70 or early maybe an early '71, could be a different story... Will

E, Your RX is great, and I understand the exponential nature of "round to its", but, as a TEMPORARY fix, I think mine meets the temporary yours chooses to ignore. On the rust treatment. The fiberglass is there to bridge the gaps and provide a durable cover for the Zinc phosphate-it is the only rust protection in my formula because of the fact when exposed to welding temperatures it will not leave the issues that "half baked" POR (and Rustoleum) will in areas that can't readily be cleaned before the final repair is made. Will PS If it was me, I would be cutting out and replacing the metal now-there isn't that much more work to that than this-though there is welding...or panel bonding.

Welcome! Congratulations on the find! Can't wait to see the pictures! WIll

Stephen, Got it-and thought I had PM'd you-you know know, and that's the important thing! TomoHawk, I am certian I am retaining some of it, but I must admit some of it all runs together, and what I am the most interested in reading I have not mastered the technique of photographing-so I haven't aske the owner who volunteered them to send them out yet. I want to be finished with the books I have, and have them sent back before I start on his treasures. Will

I have all of the books and manuals I have listed(except the 260 manual which is in transit), almost everything that has been sent in has been scanned, but Checking the scans page by page for errors is taking a while-I expect to miss some, but I hope to take care of most before returning the loaned manuals. There are several members who have volunteeered items that have not yet shown up, and there are several members who have volunteered items that I have not asked for yet because they will require special attention to scan/photograph them without damage. What will probably make the most sense at this point is to break the project up into smaller levels of completion. One part with all of the S30/S130 FSMs, Owners Manuals, sub assembly manuals, and Parts book/Microfische-I am pretty close to having all of that together, but have done no authoring(chapter navigation) at all. One part with the Technical Bulletins, and Introductory manuals-the latter of which require a great deal of time to scan/photograph without harming the originals. One part with everything else. WILL

E, Nate, if you use POR at this stage in a bandaid, you will have a hell of a time getting it out to do it right later on! I have tried removing POR to prep for welding in that very area, I suggested fiberglass because it is a temporary fix(just like a bandaid) If you get POR in the area, you will have one of two things happen when you revisit it. 1) serious proiblems with removal-the POR will fuse the overlaping pieces of metal together meaning several layers will have to be cut out because it is no longer as simple as drilling out the spotwelds a layer at a time. 2) Welding on a surface to which POR has been applied will burn the POR off meaning you now have very tight pockets of untreated metal in the repair-a large part of what caused the rust problem in the first place! My suggestion was to stop the growth of rust without complicating the future proper repair with the current effort. The inner rust treatment would have the same issues, but treat a piece of folded steel with Ospho and weld on the back side then open the fold treat a piece of folded steel with ospho then POR and weld the back side and see what I mean. Your advice could give a great permanent repair-under the conditions you stated, but that is NOT what Nate asked for, he wanted a cosmetic repair with rust stabilization that would not interfere with a later serious metal replacement-unless I read wrong. My RX gave him what he asked for a repair that would hold, stop rust and be much more removeable than anything involving POR! Will