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I guess when you have two guys fighting over a Competition Hooker, things are sure to get out of hand...or at least they should.... Will

Slight change of plan-trip delayed until wednesday/thursday... Will

Sedate your right foot! Fine tune the car and switch to a thin oil, seal the hood to the front bumper(lowers drag considerably), get rid of the front license plate if you have one, drive/park where you do not have to backup. Keep the windows up when the car is moving at more than 20 MPH. Don't use the A/C, Swap out to light, thin wheels(norrower lowers aerodynamic drag), Get rid of Tomohawks emergency toolkit-it is heavy! Lose the extra pounds you picked up in the last several years! Put the car on the ship and count that mileage in your computations! Will

Wheel emblems did come with red/orange/yellow(depending on fading) center caps from the factory through out 70-78. The gell looks glittery because the rough texture of the cavity it fills shows through the gell-the early versions had a smooth cavity, the newer versions have the texture(something else for the parts variation thread!). The "D" center caps are chrome and black. Fender emblems went from a "Datsun" in chrome black and white in the 240Z to chrome black and the same red/orange yellow(depending on fading) froming the "Z" in the 260Z and 280Z when the model designation (260Z or 280Z) replaced "Datsun" on the fender. Will

That was exactly what I ment with "The difference between a rusty car in Texas and one in Washington is years of life." in the earler post! On a low vin, taking it slow and being thorough is the only way I would go. I am collecting parts for a car I don't even have yet because of that. Will

Do'oh!

Once again, I agree completely with 26th! If you want to replace the whole box(part numbers 21 and 22 in the pictures 26th posted), I have a set in terrific shape that I can cut out. Almost anything for a low vin! Will

I have only one original crack free series one Dash and it is resting comfortably waiting on a low vin to grace my garage! Sorry ! Will

New Update, On Monday, May 21st, 2007, I am driving up to drop off the Clock and the Oscillator with an instrument restoration company. After speaking with several similar companies, this one had the best answers-and luck would have it, is essentailly on my way on a trip. I am working on getting the company to give a good evaluation of the mechanism while I am there, or before I return home so hopefully there will be another update soon. The problem with repairing the oscillator is that the tuning fork assembly is NLA, and having 50(or even one) hand made made is a bigger pile of hundred dollar bills than the rust removed from all of our cars...While it can be done, given that as the only way, I think I would rather have a cure for a serious disease than a working rally clock. Will

E. You're slipping man, Notice I said "lower" not "remove"... Is one of those proper noun/semantics kinda things? I guess the new Phone sex:eek: job must be wearing taxing your resources! :stupid: WIll

Mike, I figured you kept her warm and dry, My comment was more for dk240Z to share that the Texas heat is not as rust aiding environment as Wa... Will

It installs from the top of the tank-you have to lower the tank to change it out. Will

I would have to agree with 26th and say get an extra pair of hands and carefully and patiently remove the dash. With as much rust as is showing in the cowl from the front, the odds are good you will find it creeping up into the window chanel area which is also where the top portion of the dash is stabilized-meaning if the cowl upper dash mounts are weakened, the dash may well be on its way to distorting an cracking anyway. I have removed seven crack free dashes (with an extra pair of hands) and I haven't lost one yet. If you hang one up by one end in the car(while scurrying side to side)-I could see it cracking from the stress, but supporting it at both ends, I can't see it happening unless the crack was already in the cards. The rust is there, and will only get worse, repair it right and be done. The difference between a rusty car in Texas and one in Washington is years of life, can't leave rust in rainfall! Will

In rereading your post I think maybe you have bought a floor pan kit and are trying to bridge the areas that are still missing from the cut out floor pans. I would put the floor pans in the hole and then see what you have left-check my gallery for some pics... Sorry about the confusion... WIll

I would put in new floor pans and rails...you have an awful lot sacrificed. I have a spare set of new rails, and one floor pan...all from Charley Osborne... Will

I have a mustache bar, and several 5 speeds(unknown condition). If you don't get more replies... Will

Only becuase you asked... Polished, pretty, but-no, flat black, maybe! It would not draw as much contrast from the bodyline if it blended with the tire, and then it wouldn't alter that flawless appearance you have! Will

I hate to say it but unless you find the one guy looking to put a 260Z back, you will probably get more at the metal recycler than anywhere else. Will

Hayden, Email Tokico and ask them the question-I would think there would be a difference because of the weight difference between the coupe and the 2+2 and the fact that the load capacity is different(two more full seats ads more weight). If you don't use the back seats.... Will

Not there yet, but I will pm you with the details on the netting when I round it up again... Will

There are other posters in this thread that I have made that very comment about, one has written a wonderful manuscript on the Vintage Z Program, One has been an Automotive writer for years(and has back issues and direct involvement in them to prove it), one has a propensity for finding and outbidding everyone on unobtanium parts literature and cars, and makeing the rest of us too jealous(but in the end, he has to explain everything to his wife-hehehe!), one has spent a great deal of time and considerable energy making Z facts and fiction(Goertz anyone...) available to all. Thankyou for putting me in such esteemed company, but for an article of that type, the gentlemen I speak of(and a few more who haven'tposted or been mentioned in this thread) are the ones who would have the best knowledge to document. Will

Carl, HahaahaaaaROFL I resemble that remark...on all three counts! Will

Haahahaaahaaa! those a great Alan! Boy was I tired in the Wee hours this morning! Too much tea after ten! Carl-I get my own point-and the poke in the ribs! Will

Carl, I was taught to 'say what you mean and mean what you say', that means common nouns have no place in my typical use of language. I see your point about syntax, but the 40-GT program had Ford employees(and Factory ones at that!) actually doing the work in a Ford owned facility (according to a Documentary produced by Ford on the project) ...Effectively moving the factory... This much akin to saying the Federal Government built the space shuttle instead of Nasa Engineers built the space shuttle...There is an element of truth, but it does not convey the reality of the situation because of the ambiguity introduced by the common noun. Kats and Alan said Japanese as a second language was too intense for most people because of similar plays on intent and context I suppose this would play havoc with those learning English! My guess is that if you ask 1000 people on the street where a factory restoration would be done-the predominant answer would be in the factory, not an entirely third party facility designated by Corporate management-I guess I better put in a call to the truth in packaging guys on Nissan's spin Doctors! Will

Carl the information you provided in your post was absolutely terrific. The only part I take any issue in is the last of the statements I snipped. The Nissan Vintage Z Program had virtually nothing to do with the Nissan factory organization, otherwise the cars or sub-assemblies would have been done in one of them by Nissan Employees! The program had everything to do with Management by marketing, and in any company lead by consumers, the marketing department (with the "help" of the bean counters) tells the factory what to do. In this program, the neither the Management nor the marketing department didn't told the factory to do anything! Ask any Nissan factory employee at the time recent to the Vintage Z program what hand they had in restoring the cars-I'd bet even Kats(who managed to find not only the safety kit for a Z, OEM foglamps, and oh yes, a complete 432, and several employees) couldn't find one factory employee(manager or otherwise) that had even so much as a glimpse of a program 240Z in a Nissan Japan factory in the four years pre or post program. The management of the company said make it happen, but NOT to their own factorys! I look at at this way: If I asked you(Carl Beck) "who restored your car?", would I expect you to say "me" if all you had done was drop it off, pick it up and write out a check? My expectation of you in that specific instance would be that you would give the name of the shop you gave the check to. I see a difference between actively doing something and simply paying for it to be done. Nissan says that PierreZ, Classic Datsun Motorsports, Datsun Alley, and Old Car Service did the cars, and just to be sure they had no hidden message in that fact, not one of the named businesses shares an address of any of the listing for Nissan holdings in the USA at any time within 10 years of the Vintage Z Program. The Vintage Z Program was a Management through Marketing program that did NOT significantly involve any Nissan held Factory. Will