hls30.com

No OEM version of the original left hand side exists! Will

Acording to everyone at Nissan who would answer my questions, Nissan NEVER made a right hand match for 96301-E4600. Occasionally you will find a left hand mirror that has been manipulated(the mirror flag turned around), or has had the base ground to "make it work". I am still working on a true mirror image of the left hand mirror for the right door. I am close as you can see in the earlier parts of this thread, but I am having trouble finding a company to economicly reproduce the stampings and supply the glass in a relatively small lot(500 pcs). The stalk is all-but a bead ringer(though I have atleast 6 different OEM stalk variations-parting line treatment). Will

Tomohawk, Is this... like a boxers or briefs type question? Wiring and loose electrical parts should be secured!!!!! Break out the FSM and put everything back the way it came!!!! WIll

There are two variations of these, one for the series 1 cars and the one I am waiting on that fits the series 2 fuse box lid-I want to make molds of both... Will I am greedy, but for ALL of us!

Not when you have to get 300lbs of hardened resin and bog off the exterior sheet metal, and out of cabin... Will

Some body has spent too many nights looking at "freaky" parts at La Vela, nlot enough time looking at Nissan parts in the garage... Will

YeeeHaaaw and Hot Damn! I got me one, and then Some!!! Just waiting on USPS priority mail! Will PS, I am looking for one more....

I have had great experiences with Tabco for the last 13 years or so-never waited more than a 10 days for an order, the pieces came in perfect, and I have never had an issue-sory to hear about yours... Will

What a metal removal tool! Silly me, I spent $1100 on a plasma cutter when I could have just borrowed a goat! Sheet metal is more expensive than elbow grease, but your time is worth something, not to mention the cost of a gallon of bog... Since you have it free-sans any bites the goat took that will have to be replaced-it shouldn't be too hard. Will

I have lived in Savannah(sans the college years) since '67, and remember hitting PCB 30-several of my last 43 years-my Dad grew up there and went to BCH, and as his son, I have been to more of the "Class of '50 reunions" than some of those in the class, in addition to Spring Breaks, Beach weekends, and family vacations for the last 16 years-not that I have been to LaVela recently-afamws... We will be going yet again this year, the week after Labor day and visit with his sister who is still there. Next year we hope to take two cars-including the Z, the last time I drove a Z down(the red '73 in my gallery), my Dad was with me-made quite a hit with his female classmates-nudge, nudge, wink, wink-Dad was accused of driving a "PU$$Y Wagon" in front of all of those in attendance-he thoroughly enjoyed the roast-and the drive-even more so since Mom had stayed home and he could flirt! Will

Look behind the rear wheels to see if you can get to the adjusters, if not, take off the rear wheels and try again, if not, TEMPORARILY disconnect the linkage, but fix the adjustors and hook the linkage in short order. Will

Thanks Ed, but I can't take all of the credit, several ideas have come from other members, including the previous one, and most likely the next one. If any of you have ideas, please share them, but look at the past polls to see if I have already been ther and done that-not that we may not revisit a few or the more volital questions. Will

Get at the very least a pair of L28ET manifolds, and bolt them on the Maxima block, then the rest of the factory pieces will fit, put a boost bleed valve on the wastegate and set to completly open(NO BOOST) as a starting point-no sence killing your engine before you have the chance to tune it... For additional fuel, you can add a 100k pot to the temperature sensor to fool the existing engine management to thinking the engine is always running cold and always adding fuel via the cold start valve-this will not be enough fuel to really add much boost. I would explore larger injectors (greater flow) that have the same resistance coils, a bolt on low fabrication mod), if you don't find any of those, I would seriously consider finding a cheep 280ZX turbo that is close to running, and just move everything over(the last complete turbo car I bought came from ebay for $145) If this isnt in your budget, I am sure rebuilding the Maxima engine after adding too much boost and not enough fuel won't be either. If you don't have $1000 for the conversion, or are a great scrounger, I would leave this on the drawing board before you cause a huge repair bill, or a permanent move to the salvage yard for a running car. If you are set on experimanting, start with no boost, and tune the engine, make changes very slowly (add boost very slowly), the L24 will need to rev higher to spin up the turbo than the L28, so you will be turning more than the 2200 rpm that an L28ET takes to start producing boost and when you hear detonation, realize that you ARE killing the engine. Interesting project, and you are doing it right in reading and "dis-cussing" before trying and cussing then! Will

I resemble that remark...for a good many interior parts... Will

I would want to check it out in person-or have someone local who really knew about the cars check it out. It is too easy to hide problems in the hidden areas of photos, The car is worth a trip to see if it is worth the money... Will Here is another one... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-RESTORED-1973-DATSUN-240Z-SPORT-COUPE-W-280Z-ENGINE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQitemZ4648714352QQrdZ1 A 9 year old appraisal for Stated Value insurance purposes does not cary much weight in my book. With all of the variations from stock, I don't see that the car would bring that kind of money, in the fourth from the last picture, the dash looks to have a cover on it...and I would want some upskirt action(what is usually covered by side skirts). Still a pretty car with nice mods... Will

Aw come on, La Vela isn't usually a strip club... Will

In reality, there isn't a call for a great number of these, they only fit a small number of the Zs currently on the road, and there are at least three variations to choose from ( http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20840&highlight=series+ashtray ) As soon as I get caught up with what life has thrown my way, I will be reproducing the earliest versions of the finest series one parts I have.. I think the demand is small, but the desire for an indistinguishable reproduction is great. Will

The front page poll started as a poll of the month, I changed it to a two week poll, and immediately got email about giving more time to collect answers. SO... what is the consensus as to the duration of the poll? Thanks, Will

I would take the cut and paste approach, it will be a quicker repair, and will not result in a panel that is workhardened, and thin from having the crap beat out of it to get out the creases, and to restore the high relief areas that are severly flattened. Will

The sellers ebay name is JSKinovations. Will

Why can't you put a half cut on the front? Looks like all of the damage is ahead of the passenger compartment? It has been done before, and to keep a series 1 alive, it is worth doing again. If the shop doing it plans it out right, they will have very little weld finishing to do, as the bolt on sheet metal covers most of the scars. I would sacrifice one of your later driveable cars to put this one back on the road. R&R the front unibody and cosmetic sheet metal would be the right fix for your car. It would take longer and more money and tallent to straighten the car than to cut and paste... Where are you? Will

I have never seen a factory Z (S30) console that did not come with a choke slot-even the manuals show it in every picture and drawing I have found. Will

Bryan, If you can't make up your mind, save the $44 and use it elsewhere on the car-you' won't know the difference in the tires, but you might get something for the $44 that will be worth the difference! What is the cost of a tank of gas relative to the qualty of a set of tires anyway...

The Caliper brackets are still available-as of 5pm today for about $70 each depending on the Nissan dealer, part# 44155-04S10. Use car-parts.com to find the used parts(I found and bought a very recent pair of the calipers for $40 that were local to me that way) I bought new rotors from RockAuto for about $80. As EZZZZZZZ says, the price depends on how much work you are willing to do to save money, and how lucky you are in your search... Will

I picked mine up on ebay. Seems like they were $62 a pair. I'll see if I can find the particulars over the next few days. Will