hls30.com

Don't be confused! Try what you believe you want, then replace as necessary-if you start with urethane, selling the slightly used pieces can be done, but I have never seen used rubber bushings actually sell. Will

Ebay has all of them as do most of the vendors-the late 260/280 variety is still available from the dealer. Will

Having both done will also make the car drive like a Z is supposed to, and probably re-introduce you to the driving fun you had forgotten-the worn tire has been affecting your cruizez for guite a while, and you probaby weren't aware of it, but after the fix, you sure will be! Will

Victor, Check the 15th post on this thread, those are the wheels I am talking about, the pic of the wires didn't come up when I posted yesterday! Come Victor, you are a wheeljunky-I can't imagine you haven't ever played with a set of wires...

1) Did the shop verify your alignment-previous tire wear says there is a problem 2) Were the tires balanced. Will

Millsan1, First welcome to the club! Second, While not having a carcas and extra parts sounds like a good idea, the troubleshooting value of a complete donor car should not be overlooked. I am in the process of a serious power turbo upgrade, and if I didn't have the ability to test individual pieces before leaving the beaten path, I would already be deep in the frustration Zone with an inoperative motor. If you have no way to verify individual pieces let alone subassemblies, you have seriously added to your learning curve, and the troubleshooting issues you may have in using parts that were not specificly designed for each other with integrated support documentation. Will

The ear on the tybe B is 35.48mm long from the flange to the tallest point, but the casting is NOT a precsion piece, that is to say the shifter pivot hole is not at the same location on both ears(top to bottom-but they are centered front to back on both ears), on one side the flange is on the tangent of the hole, while on the other side it is about 6mm from the flange. Even checking another type b the measurement for placement is off from the first one-I think using a ZX shifter(as used in the tranny will give the best measurements as it is a precision piece and the pivot points on the ears would have been located with its measurements. I have one, but I will have to dig for it, I can drop it to you at work sometime tomorrow, and.or post the measurements here. Will

I'll post the bushing measurements and then go measure the ears on the tybe "b". Using your diagram-reposted below. 1) 18.20mm 2) 9.00mm 3) 1.60mm 4) 12.30mm 5) 8.00mm Two or Three sets would be great, I'll post the ear measurements shortly Will

Those are the same wheels I have on my Roadster and I believe that Victor Lawry had a set on his at least long enough for a picture... Will

I have a set ready for cleaning. Will

This is what I am familiar with for taking measurements of parts, and what I am hunting for to get the measurements from the bushing in question-though my version is digital. Will PS I am going to go find that so and so at 6!

I knew what to measure, just not how to do it with a dial indicator(pictured below) I have the bushings in hand, and still have not found my vernier caliper. As far as I know a dial indicator is for use only when mounted on a machine tool, and is normally used for measuring the "trueness" or "runout" of a machined surface, not over all measurements of a part-but I am interested to learn how... Will

WHy not pull the Babe of a 280ZX and let her talk? Will

If you are set on buying things before you have the car(I would wait) Put the tool storage on hold, buy some heavy duty peg board and some peghooks and store your tools on it, much faster, easier and uses almost no realestate in a small garage. You don't need the vacuum yet As Mike suggests, most things in a Z can be accomplished with a few tools 8,10,12,14,16,17,19, 26mm(Oil plug) sockets and wrenches, a #1 and #2 Phillips, a pair of vice grips, a 3lb hammer, a 13/16" deep socket, a pair of forcepts, a breaker bar, and a high quality 10mm flare nut wrench a pair of stands and a floor jack. I would buy the car the the FSM, then the tools. To cover pretty much anything I care to I keep the following tools handy, with more stored for specific uses. 1) An 1/4" drive metric socket set (incl. deep) 2) a 3/8" metric socket set (incl. deep) 3) a 1/2" drive metric socket set (incl. deep) 4) a large deep socket set 5) a MAC 10 mm flare nut wrench 6) spare 3/8" sockets in 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19mm sizes 7) a set of metric combination wrenches 8) a set of metric open ended wrenches 9) A set of Rachet wrenches 10) a set of Mac allen drivers 11) an old Craftsman Torque Wrench (Tested every 5 years or so) 12) a set of screw drivers. 13) a 3 ton floor jack 14) a set of forecepts 15) a pair of extended phillips & standard driver bits 16) a 5' length of 1" heavy wall pipe 17) a set of left hand drill bits 18) a set of easy outs 19) a high quality rechargeable drill 20) an active membership here! Will

Do some research, what makes a coilover, and what makes a good one, there are good ones out there that are not expensive or cheep crap, you can buy high quality parts to assemble your own set online from Coleman Racing Products among others. Will

The beer wans't for you anyway, it was to get one of these guys over to your house to help or cheerlead! Will

I have a spare oem set you can use, I will post measurements as soon as I can put my hands on my vernier caliper-I am not quite sure how to get the measurements you need by using a dial indicator. Will

Hell, at those prices, I will fly up there and drive something home!!! Will

You can pay a title search company to hunt for it by telling them you need a bonded title for it-about $100 or so. You can run acarfax-I think you can get one free somewhere on the web. Most DMVs will issue a report of a specific vin for about $5, some will not give you the owners name and address, but will give you the city and last time it was registered. Will

Yep-er Will

Yup I ment 13/16ths. We covered tools in another thread, and that is why I didn't include the "A" list! I didn't include Craftsman in my short list because I replaced two 20 year old drivers three years ago, I have replaced their replacements no less than four times since then. A replacement warranty is a selling point and a testament to quality when it is used once in 20 years, when it is used three times in three years it is a testament to a lack of quality and to buy something else. My skin, hands, frustration and time are worth more than a replacement warranty that I have to use every third time I use a tool. This holds true for socket drivers, I have had my 13/16th spark plug socket replaced twice. The last time I found that neither the spark plug socket or the deep socket they stocked was deep enough to accomodate our sparkplugs and had to order a deep socket from the catalog-and buy one elsewhere to use to finish a tuneup! The chrome is also peeling from all of the 1/2 Sockets that came in the set my wife gave me three years ago. I used to swear by Craftsman, I still swear, but at them. I am replacing them with SK as frustration mounts and skin is lost. Will

1) Get a high quality metric socket set and a wrench set, SK, Mac, or equivalent, and a 3/4 deep socket for the spark plugs. Add a second 12,14,16mm and a 19 and 26mm sockets(6 sided socket for 17mm and above) 2) Have your tank boiled, and use the Gastank kit from POR15.com. 3) Replace the manifold only if it is cracked or otherwise damaged. 4) Have the block cleaned at a machine shop-even if you don't use one for anything else-they will dip it and there will be no sludge. 5) The hard lines should not need replacing, the high pressure fuel injection hose is availabe at most auto parts stores, but make sure it has "high pressure fuel injection hose" actually printed on the hose-otherwise they sold you fuel hose for a carbureator-do not use that-it WILL burst. 6) You can pick and choose anything you want for your-it is your car! Will

I wasn't offended, just confused, but, more importantly, I thought Carl would have been offended. Your reply sounds like you know what you could have expected from Carl as a reply. Will

That's a hard one, complete engines don't sell on ebay for even $50, but a good used set of injectors on a fuel rail goes for $30-50, the egr manifold is usually another no sale on ebay. The Upull-it here gets $75 for a complete IM. Will