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You might try flattening the tube slightly. Heat the area red hot and give it several sharp raps with a large face hammer-if you place a small area dent the tube you will ad more restriction than if you flatten the tube over more area-the dent will change crossectional area, flatening will not(the circumference of the tube is elongated on one axis and compressed on the other)-as an example, take a cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels or toilet paper, slightly squish it(such that it will not retain the distortion). Now take the same tube and force a dent into it-see the difference! Will

Some pictures of the actual damage would help-you might not need the entire tub replaced. If you do, can you remove the old one, and maybe a replacement, and save some money? The spot welds can be drilled out with a standard drill and a $5 spot weld cutter bit(and maybe a couple of spare cutter bits) from Harbor Freight. If you do the unskilled grunt work, and the final coating, you could probably get by for less than $200-you would be paying for the welding and its prep work, other wise paying shop rates for the removal you would probably atleast double or tripple that. Will

I couldn't get your link above to work, if you didn't get it all, Pm me an email address that will accept a 2mb file, and I'll send you something that will help. Will

The biggest mistake you made was not pulling off the road immediately-by allowing this morons challenge to keep you on the road you only lengthened the time you and your wife were at the mercy of his insanity. His actions made responsability to get you and yours out of that situation yours. What he did was insane, but how did your actions difuse the situation and limit your risk? As soon as he didn't take your hint of tapping the brakes, you should have taken a course of action to get you and yours out of harms way by turning on the blinker and pulling off the road. It is kind of hard to have a wreck between parked cars. A fist fight can't normally become four tons of sheet metal with several severly hurt people trapped inside. No violation of a petpeeve, pride, game or anger is worth the loss of anyone. I am in no way saying that the other driver was not the instigator, but you did step up to his challenge, not step out of it, or, move it to a venue where you, your wife, and the moron were not ALL at risk. None of this is to beat you up, it is simply to ask if giving control of the situation and having so much faith in a just proven irrational morons judgement and driving ability as to put you and your wife at risk sound like a rational decisions to you. Will

:eek: Damn Miles, you had the easiest 100,000km restoration I have ever heard of! Will

Outstandingly good info-Thanks! Will

Add me to the list-just read the thread after the PM I sent you earlier today, suggestions for my application will be appreciated. Thanks again, Will

Here you go from the '82 FSM. I am going to do pretty much the same thing to my '72. WIll

I would use Porpatch. and clean and coat the underside as well. That way the repair will be permanent and not temporary! The pic also shows what look like cracks, if they are cracks, they need to be dressed and welded before you do anything else-if you cover then, they will come back. Will

Welcome to the party! Post pictures, questions, frustrations and triumphs(no british cars inteneded!) When(if) you cuss and throw tools, make sure they don't hit the body work! Will

Now that you have read what Enrique wrote, read it out loud and take heed, ther is a great deal of wisdom in his words-they will save you money, energy and time to enjoy the car with out costing you anything. Will

Looks like we have another one of those "depends on who was doing what job today" kind of things... Will

Hey Chris, That free beer sign on the underside of the hood didn't hurt in building the crowd either! JK!-have to throw the frog owners a bone once in a while... Will

Todd are you talking about tar or the beige/yellow stuff being the undercoating? Many of the cars I have done have had overspray on the tar, but none of it was from the paint at the factory-even when it was the right color. Will

Bryan, Sure, I am headed out of town today, but when I get back I will find the liners as well and get you some pictures. I will also see if I can discribe them well, I talked to the upholstery shop while they did them, and had them add a few features as we progressed toward the end. Wil

On all of the 240Zs I have stripped the undercarriages of, all had tar based undercoating over (NOT UNDER) the paint-even in the tranny tunnel, and undercoating overspray on the tranny, drive shaft and suspension componenets. from my gallery: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12158&cat=500&ppuser=4106 Will

Use aircraft paint stripper for the coatings, it will even take off urethane. Buff and grind only the metal! Will