hls30.com

I know there were two versions of the poster available when I bought mine. I did choose the more limited edition, but honestly I don't remember exactly what the differences were-but I would not have opted for the more exclusive of the two without a reason. Will

I'm not sure what the other guys do, but I mount the glass parts (using clamps,screws, rivets-what ever temporary fasteners are needed) in place first, then I prep them for more glass, clean everything, mount the wax papaer, mount the parts again, wax the temporary fasteners(to keep the epoxy from making them hard to remove-or ruining them) and make the flanges on the car. That way they fit perfectly, and add stability to the new shape of the original part. Once again, leaving them temporarliy installed I put the car out in the sun for a couple of weeks-and spray paint the parts black. The parts are stabilized by the heat and the clamping, and are ready for final finishing/bonding to the car. WIll

Except in simulated racing you don't need a catch can... Will

Yes-depending on how well you cut the old one off..the part pictured will replace the butt end of all Zs that came with big bumpers. You will have to reuse the metal filler sill for your bumper. Will

If you tape the waxpaper to the car, then use a heat gun to soften the wax, it will stick to the paint, and will not move around while you apply the resin and cloth/mat. If you bond the fiberglass on with epoxy resin and let it go through atleast a week of typical temperature changes, then do the filler work and allow the same, then do the final body work and paint, you will not have the cracking problems that palgue many glassed in parts. Frequently the chemistry in the bonding is not complete before the paint goes on. I apply the materials, then rough in the area, then I usually give atleast three weeks outside before I sew up body work that required bonding-I coat the area with a couple of thin coats of rattle can black laquer and park the car with that area in the noon-day sun-to get the greatest temperature variation . The laquer will be completely sanded off before final contouring and priming. After three weeks of as dramatic temperature changes as black laquer and south Georgia sunshine will provide, the chemistry is done, and the area is stable in terms of expansion. I learned this technique when bonding the rear tub to the fenders of a '77 Z on my Alpha one project-since 1997 I have had no cracks, blisters, or repairs of any kind needed to the bonded areas. . I have seen many professional shops have to go back and repair beautifully blended work in a year or two because it was painted too soon after bodywork-funny, they never take credit for the problem! Professional body shops have to turn projects-sometimes because of pressure from the owner-through the system quickly-sometimes at the expense of the longevity of the job. My first Z had some filler spread on the lower rear quarters-looked great for about six months, then started falling off in sheets-that was part of why I got deeply into doing my own work-the shop that did it warranted the paint for a year, but offered no warranty on bog falling off due to its direct application to RUST! They also lost the hood and fender emblems, and smeared bog over the holes(did I mention I only owned the car for three days before my parents bought me the body work/ paint job?). The car was beautiful when I got it back, but the holes became visible as bulges under the paint within a few weeks-then I compared the pre-paint photos of the car, and went and had my first experience with chewing arse. They bought and installed new emblems, but... Will

I was trolling ebay tonight and found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Datsun-Nissan-Lt-Edition-Z-Car-Print-w-Mr-K-sig-1995_W0QQitemZ150018231871QQihZ005QQcategoryZ418QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I wonder if the seller will sell any-I have #194 of 300 that were hand signed-if I remember correctly, still rolled up in its shipping container from the printing company with the Certificates of Authenticity and Registration. My garage isn't suitable for hanging this, or the large Dealer Issue version of the Dream Garage poster and the Ad enlargements I have-but then the car isn't ready yet either. I also noticed ZCCA.org expired on 7/29/06! Somebody must have goofed! WIll

Cut out any perforation, weld in new panels, treat against rust and keep driving! Most rust prone areas have repairpanels available. Will

I have not used dynamat, but I have used several similar products as solutions to the issues of both sound and heat transmission. There are a multitude of insulation products available. I have used a good many including one of the most effective resonance reducers, sheet lead. If you search the archives here you will find information on several including Brown Bread, Dynamat, Aluminum faced jute, undercoating and conventional bedliner. I want the interior of my car quiet and comfortable, to that end, I am using a "layered" approach to achieve acoustic and thermal isolation-that is to say a combination of several products and methodologies. Will

I think the car is "a survivor", it has had a good many parts replaced through time. Check the door weather strips- The pictures really don't show that much, probably on purpose(how much harder would it have been to pull the felt out of the floorboards), other than parts from several years/countries. As a parts car it may be a good buy at its current price, but with no visual indication of rust, no showing of the included parts, and no information until after the end of the auction, you won't know unless you win. Not a good way to buy in my opinion, add to that time it takes to pick up the truck, trailer, load the car and drive 400 miles, and you have way too much time and money(don't forget the cost of gas when borrowing a truck and trailer) in an unknown parts car. Will

I had the same idea, and after doing a little digging in the archives found several clear pictures of the rally clock, clearly showing the "Citizen" logo on the lower portion of its face-reducing and printing the face is no issue, and there are several Citizen watches that would do the job when refaced-depending on the chronometer movement. Will

If you drove the car pulling the trailer must have been a great feeling looking in the rearview and seeing that car following you home-permanentlyif not, it still must be a great feeling knowing it is yours! WIll

"Simple...too much work" Hmmm. I would have my car say things I won't type here!:stupid: Will

They have been on ebay a couple of times in the last month, WILL

It doesn't have a copy by Nissan so it can't be an Audi sports car. Will

OOPS-something that was lost with an update-I'll find the pics and repost. Will

Though I am certian that would work, I think you could do better for a ZX for a whole lot less money-especially considering that price does not include speakers. Check my gallery... Will

Pesonally, I have always wanted to agrue that a tailgate is not a jar-no matter what the car thinks, but then I come to my senses and realize/remember: "there is no winning an argument with a woman." Even if you are right you are wrong, and in this case she controls the timing, the fuel supply, the steering, and the fun per mile vs $ per mile-not a battle I am ready to choose! Will

-or welcome you to the vaporlock club-which still sounds like it may be in order! Is the injector fan still inplace? If not, get one and put it back! Will

I know who to have on my side in a trivia contest! Will

The engine was offset to one side at the factory. I'll try to find the measurements tonight. Will

Check the tension-too loose and you will get what you have... Will

Here you go, I have a couple of spare working modules from a 280zx. WIll PM me your email and I'll send them larger if you need.

Enrique, Even my wife laughed out loud at that-she asked me what I was laughing at...so I read it to her. Will

Come on guys, it is a picture of a car! Will

If I were closer, I would have a great truck to restore with my Z. Will