Jump to content
Remove Ads

hls30.com

Free Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by hls30.com

  1. Not sure about your specifics, but is you are talking about three eight hour days, your time estimate is accurate, he is not using premade parts, and does excellent work, that comes out to $1200/24 hours. or $50 and hour-I reckon that sounds pretty good-for this side of the pond! Will
  2. You are smart to practice first, use what you have while you look for comparable sheel metal, the technique will be the same, the settings on the equipment may and probably will be slightly different. Will
  3. hls30.com replied to m_dunnie's topic in Introductions
    Welcome, There is a big local club for the Atlanta area called the Georgia Z Club, they have lots of resources local to you and at least one most excellent member (MikeW) that shares his time and tallents with this club too. If you PM him, I am sure he will get you the club info. I am in Savannah, and doing pretty much what you are talking about doing, putting a '83 L28ET into a "72. the car is stripped on a rotisserie, with just one last day or two of body work left before sealer and then...wait for it........ paint! Will
  4. Looks good, can't wait for daylight pictures! Will
  5. Thanks! I found a rusty and beatup Fairlady on ebay in Texas a couple of weeks ago, and missed buying it(it went for a little over $300) because of a family issue. It had all of these goodies. That find, and loss, was the source of my question. I am after some more JDM pieces-power window mechanisms(though those do have more than just a passing resemblance to 280ZX mechanisms) and a couple more switches/interior panels Will.
  6. I think they are mounted on the doorz! I noticed those power mirrors too! Will
  7. I Cant tell-it is too small-just over postage stamp size.... Will
  8. I know that the Fairlady Z got power windows before they were offered here in the USA. Does anybody know when and what the switches looked like? Part numbers would just be too much... Will
  9. also check your ignition module, a bad one can cut the car off when it gets warm and let it run when it is cool. Might not be the issue, but better to prove it isn't than ignore the possability and later find out t is. Will
  10. No-it is a non running parts car in need of paint!-if it was running, it would be worth what he paid for it-maybe more. The car is not rare, some of the parts are. If the car was all that wonderful he would be asking more for it, or would have taken the time to get it running. The pictures do not include the rust he talked about(couldn't get Photobucket to cooperate); they are also not good enough to evaluate the fender blending-though I question it based on reflection and the overspray under the hood-not professional. After sitting for a year and a half, it is going to need tires, a fuel system cleaning, a battery in addition to what ever it takes to get it running. The carbs and wheels might be marketable(if we knew their actual condition), but the bonded on pieces are not(except as a whole), A rough running 250GTO replica in similar shape and outfitting went for $2900 a couple of months ago. If he wants what he has in it, he needs to get it running. but if somone wants to take a gamble... Will
  11. hls30.com replied to xray's topic in Interior
    Steve, The sagging is due to variations in the tension of the material, equalize the tension, the sags dissipate. Heat alleviates the stresses that cause the variation in tension, and thereby the sags... Will
  12. hls30.com replied to xray's topic in Interior
    Adding a 1/4" of padding, and some careful use of a heat gun/hair dryer will go a long way to get rid of the waves. Perhapse a little more care in installation would have helped too, proper placement of hog rings should have held the material tight over the seat bottom foam, the back just needs more padding or to be pulled down more. WIll
  13. Even with the top off, he could not fit behind the steering wheel! Will
  14. There are a ton of threads about that, here are a few... Will http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16546&highlight=dry+ice http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20051&highlight=dry+ice http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18888&highlight=dry+ice http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18231&highlight=dry+ice
  15. Sorry, 15 inches O.D. Will
  16. Here are the oem wheels that would have come on a 240Z, the one without the cutouts is a restored series one steering wheel, the one with the cutouts is a later unrestored wheel. Sorry for the poor pic, there was enough llight to fool the auto flash, but not the camera-had to brighten it with software Will
  17. hls30.com replied to Wicked_Escort's topic in Introductions
    Welcome! You might browse the classifieds here, there are usually a several in them! Will
  18. Just had to add these pictures that rolled across the roadster forum a short time ago, they clearly show the size differences between the 240Z and 2000GT. Will
  19. You need to spend more time in the threads before The Rust seeks vengeance for your blasphomyROFL ! While the 240Z Steering wheels are a combination of resin and wood, they are NOT Walnut! Walnut is not an easily maleable wood even when saturated with resin-or anything else! The OEM shifter know could be Walnut(I have never really checked to see), but not the steering wheel,. The later S30s came with a black closed cell rubber rim made to look like it was covered with a stitched leather cover. Will
  20. What mie suggested, and the JDM touches, the clock, console switches, dash, hatch and shelf, full rear and side shots... Will
  21. Tomohawk, If the wires go bad in the plastic holders that the cars come with, having the metal so close for temptation would only speed that up! One thing about hotrods, and most muscle cars, they are very seldom daily drivers... If you look at wires that have seen daily driving for even a year, generally they have flats and chafing forming on them with little or no direct metal contact, putting the wire in a metal holder is akin to a metal tower up in a lightning storm! Spending time and energy (and/or money) on an "upgrade" that adds no performance-and infact has the propensity to degrade performance...isn't that what we call Rice? :stupid: Will
  22. Somebody go check this thing out and post some more pictures! Will
  23. The metal clips invite the spark through the insulation, causing ignition breakdown, resulting in hesitation, skipping, poor fuel economy, and driving that is not as responsive or fun as it should be! Carbon fiber would be a questionable choice as well. Will
  24. hls30.com replied to GA-Z-BO's topic in Introductions
    Welcome! And thanks for the parts trades/sales! You have a PM!
  25. Take it to an A/C shop and they will recover the freon-usually for free-call them first. Will
Remove Ads

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.