JMT240KGTR

By what you've said you should be fine; L20A - L24/26/28 shouldn't be any different unless wires off the dizzy run into the EFI circuit somewhere; by sounds of it it doesn't so you'll be OK. R30 coil, elec dizzy, B wire goes to + terminal, C to - on coil. James

It'd be hard to find a new original C110 cap; try the wrecking yards for other Datsuns in good condition, or even somewhere like Autobarn might stock universal items. James

Razor, Rather than going through the process of changing seats, get yourself an R30 E88 cast head. Chamber volume is 41cc (small/good for C/R), has 42mm inlet valves (bigger than stock 38mm 240K type) plus you have the advantage of steel seats. Straight bolt on, head gasket costs $25.00~, exhaust manifold gasket $20.00~, R30 head $100~ from wreckers (be sure you check for damage/warpage before taking away. Bring with you a good sturdy straight edge to check for straightness, if it's too much out of whack no amont of shaving will true it up. All in all this will be cheaper than modifying your existing head, and since you're contemplating removing the head anyway, it's a bonus! James

There's a method but I won't try to describe it here, have a look through the forums for timing, distributor etc. Basically it involves turning the engine to TDC, placing dizzy on without cap, checking the rotor head is correctly positioned and placing leads on the cap in correct sequence. It's quite simple but unless you're certain of what you're doing, use the method below. For this exercise mark the new dizzy cap with numbers next to where the respective leads would connect to. When you transpose this dizzy cap onto your car the numbering sequence will be the same. Leave the leads on your K connected to the spark plugs ends and simply hook them back up to the respective numbers marked on the new dizzy cap. Follow? Fit new dizzy in place of the old one (check the rotor head is positioned the same way the old one was prior to removal). Fit dizzy cap on with leads connected and thats the hard part out of the way. James

Try 280ZX, I'm not 100% on them though whether they employ an electric dizzy w/module or some other type. What you're looking for is here in the attched pic. Notice the black box on the distributor, this is a module, 2 wires come off it and go the coil, black goes to - terminal, blue to + terminal. Have fun...

Here's a tip; before removing everything mark them, either with tape on the leads ie no.1, 2 , 3 etc. Mark wires coming from-to the coil ie +, -, and you'll be sweet. The distributor only goes on one way, when removed you'll notice the notch it sits on, ensure the distributor is aligned accordingly and you'll be fine. James

Hmm, I cop the same thing on occasion in my coupe now; auto trans I get that prob in first gear but only before the car is fully warmed up! I'll be looking for another manual trans soon, miss the sporty feel already! Sorry I can't offer advice Razor, never been game enough to open up a trans, manual or especially auto. James

Razor, The dimmer switch on the K's is next to the choke cable, left of the steering wheel; well all I've seen are located there anyway. James

Kyteler, Got your PM; my apologies. You seem to have worked it out anyways, cheers. James

Razor, Most common and readily available conversion for iginition is the electronic distributor from an L series EFI engine ie some 280C's, all R30 Skylines. Remove complete distributor and coil and absolute straight bolt on, by far the easiest and cheapest performance upgrade. James

Welcome Llama, Another K man the list. And yes please post some pics soon! As for fitting flares to a sedan, Alan hit the nail on the head; definitely a heap of work to be done back there if you intend fitting wide rims. I took a good hard look at my sedan rear doors/arches and if we think cutting the arches for a coupe is quite a job, then the sedan is a monster! Anything is possible though, money talks...:classic:

And another....

Another shot

Harry, Check out the following pics. I trial fitted these and they filled the flares OK, could have done with another 1/2" outwards. What I liked about them is they have a nice deep chrome lip.

I'm not selling the car:classic: I brought the topic up just to get a feel for what other 240K owners thought/know the value of their cars. Good to see we some feedback! prince, $22,000 is incredible. Get some pics of that car into the gallery, must be awesome! James

G'day Harry, Welcome onboard. We've emailed each other a couple of times before regarding the K, should be a good project you've got there! I can help you out with flares, guy in Melbourne is STILL making mine, hopefully it isn't too much longer (they're based on original moulds). If you want to get rid of that V8 I'll swap you an L28 block and head in excellent condition, with modified sump, oil pick up tube and dipstick suited for a 240K. Hard to find an L28 with the bottom end oriented to the style of the C110.! Good to see we've got another member anyway. James

Fellas, Trying to get some feedback for what you think C110/240Ks are worth. Bear in mind to refer to either coupes or sedans.... For example, I would sell mine for $2000.00 if I got offered it. High comp L24, 3 speed auto, 240Z carbs, elec ignition, 3 row radiator, separate auto oil cooler, body straight-no rust, 280ZX series 2 alloys. (you can see pics in my gallery) Be interesting to hear what other think of this, and the value of their own. Cheers, James