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Dave WM

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Posts posted by Dave WM

  1. On 9/18/2022 at 10:34 AM, Av8ferg said:

    Dave the sending unit is a single female type bullet connector.  Is this the one you’re talking about? 

    there is a two piece with the sender mounting into a separate screw in brass holder and then there is the one piece where the sender and the screws are all one brass piece. the OE is the two piece with separate screw in / sender bits. I did not know about this, ended up with the one piece which fitment is the same, came with a O ring (not used not sure why its included). It seems the seal is made by the conical shaped end of the sender in both types. 

  2. make sure you have the dash installed as deeply onto the frame as you can.IIRC the holes on the metal frame are large enough for some wiggle room. You want that wiggle to be biased as far back (on the frame, forward from the driver posistion that is) as possible. The issue is the door opening, The dash is just big enough, if you have it forward at all you risk the edge of the dash being visible with the door open. It should tuck in behind the opening. This was the way it was on a 280z anyway.

  3. I attached a breaker bar on the front crank nut 27mm IIRC. then with the air pressure on low about 15-20 psi I would hand crank it until i would feel pressure, then slowly continue until the pressure would just go away then a bit more (trying to get the piston dwell in the middle). remove the breaker bar (you dont want it attached when full pressure is added as it can suddenly move if the TDC is not just right), and then pump up to about 90-100 psi. getting the TDC setting just right takes a little bit of practice but not hard.

  4. no better after restart, it would run  for a few seconds then die, there is a alt compesation circuit on some, but not mine. Looks like a little bellows under the dash. I ahve toyed with the idea of trying to hook something up, assuming all the ECU's have the ability to use it.

    going to lay out all the stuff I have and give it a good clean up then start taking inventory, eventually build a new stand for it. 

  5. I installed a could long guide bolts with the heads cut off (and sloted for later removal) that I could slip the trans over taking the weight and guiding it in. Still a bit of a battle sometimes its a skirmish sometimes its a war but it will just all of a sudden pop in. 

    I try to avg the slop in the install tool, as it tends to droop under the weight of the clutch disk. repeatedly check for easy insertion of the tool while tightening up the pressure plate and see if it seems centered (again the droop of a plastic tool and some clearance needed to make it work). 

    make sure dowels are in good shape (maybe thats been covered). 

    biggest advice is to NEVER use the bolts to pull it together.

  6. no worries, ditching the idea of trying it with the stock EFI setup. I I was doing a thought experiment to answer my own question about why its not spooling up and making boost on the test stand. I assume it takes a LOT of power to spool a compressor wheel up enough to create boost at the volume needed by an engine. With that in mind the amount of drag I am seeing is minimal, assuming that is the drag does not go up with RPM. I just wanted to see if it would spool up, I have seen a lot of turbos where the guy just spins it with fingers and round she goes, but the more I read the more I find out about the differences in journals vs ball bearings and even more about the drag of a carbon seal vs what is called a "dynamic" seal. I seems the carbon seal is used for very good sealing on the intake side (I have also read that carbon seals are used on ac compressors, that would need a very good seal indeed to not lose refrigerant).

    Anyway back to my setup. I do have the stock turbo manifold/harness/ECU and sundry sensors, got them with the engine. So the plan now is to stop futzing around and start by sorting all out to a diagram to make sure I am not missing any parts for the EFI, then I will just build another test stand dedicated to the turbo.

    If the stock setup eludes me I will consider an aftermarket setup, but the data on those is fast moving, I can see some ads for complete plug and play but those seem like a lot to me (2k+) maybe that's just the way it is but I would rather try the stock setup which I have 1st. I am not in a hurry since my stock NA engine is pretty solid and I have a better NA engine as a spare. Its the one with the MN47 head that has much higher compression. 

    Anyway its the journey that motivates me at this point so no real needs for short cuts like the plug and play at least for now. I would however like to tackle pikes peak again and not run out of power above 12.5k feet....

    • Like 1
  7. I am considering just hooking the manifold up to my car if I can figure out an easy solution to the exhaust, and running it like on the test stand. That way I can get some real world experience as far as getting it under loads and see if the break in is the issue. Yes Please guys with exp on these types of turbos (carbon seal) chime in. I have found some other old post from sites like Hybrid Z that would tend to agree with the carbon seat very tight turbo, but I am not a member there and the post are often quite old, still seems that was the deal.

  8. I am kind of leaning toward bagging the idea of running the turbo with the stock efi, just too much to go wrong there. this leaves me with 2 options.

    just get a COTS efi that can support a turbo with modern sensors OR delve into the OE turbo EFI stuff (which i got with the engine) and try to hook it all up. Its in pieces so it will take some work to figure out, and hope its all there, will not know for sure until I do some research.

    Either way I think I will build a new engine test stand. I really like having the NA stand as its very easy to setup a engine on it, building the stand it not that hard and does not take up any more room than engine stand used for tear down.

    I am kinda running out of steam on the project, as cooler temps approach and more outside temptations present. Cycling in Florida gets real nice in the coming months, and I have to think about my hiking and road trip plans. I may try for my east coast road trip soon before winter sets in.

  9. On 8/19/2022 at 9:40 PM, Captain Obvious said:

    Could you put the stock intake snout back on and run the engine like that? In other words... Run the intake tract in NA mode and pull the turbo intake stuff off, but leave the turbo installed. I'm thinking that with the turbo in place you could look inside it while the engine is running to see if the impeller is spinning at all?

    I'm no turbo expert, but your description of how much force is required to spin it has me concerned.

    will shoot a video of the naked turbine soon it will spin on its own once you get a bit over idle, just not fast enough to generate any real airflow from the compressor side.

  10. On 8/19/2022 at 8:58 PM, BoldUlysses said:

    Quite the getup you have there.  Do you have a wideband O2 sensor and EGT gauge?  Those are going to be very helpful to ensure you're not running lean under boost.

    Still not sure about the turbo.  I can imagine it would be stiff when you got it back from the rebuilder b/c of the assembly lube, but that should be flushed out the first time oil pressure comes up...

    I have a narrow band O2 that I was monitoring with a voltmeter, I was adjusting the temp sensor to try and keep the voltage right around .5v

    do not have an EGT gauge, did not know about that will look and see what I can find.

  11. being new to turbos I wanted to get some time with it on the stand. I see a lot of comments about it needing to be loaded to generate enough heat energy to actually spool to compression speeds. If def does NOT spin freely by hand, but the turbo rebuilder said that is normal for a carbon seal, and that it would get better with use. I can turn it by hand but not "spin". Perhaps its a matter of terminology, the impeller turns smoothly just not easy. It getting plenty of oil, I pressurized the system with the return line off to make sure oil was getting thru it. when I rev the engine up I am seeing about 40-60 psi (lower at idle of course). 

    I am coming around to the conclusion that as you mentioned a road test it prob the best way to find out if its going to work. My plan was to use the existing EFI and just add the turbo and manifold to add boost. I assume the stock EFI can handle it, esp if I take it easy and dont get on it too hard (assuming the boost comes up that is).

  12. hooked up the charge pipe, then the AFM to the inlet of the turbo. Monitor the vacuum. I can see NO boost regardless of how much I throttle up. prob reving past 4K which is kinda scary on the test stand. Turbo is still fairly stiff to turn by hand, def can not finger spin it, not sure if that is normal. My vacuum just goes from 20inhg to 0 as I throttle up. From what I have read you need to a load on the engine to generate the kind of exhaust needed to really spool up to boost levels. I am thinking of pulling the turbo off and taking it back to the rebuilder to ask them to check it out and see how tight is. They told me it would be tight due to the carbon seal, but I thought they said it would loosen up. I prob have about 20 min for idle and reving up on the stand with it installed. I did get a new muffler as the junk one I had was small, the new one fits the down pipe (2.5"), so I know its not an exaust restriction. The engine seem to be running fine perhaps the only way to know for sure is to pull the trigger and install it....

    Come on you turbo guys give me some advice about this lack of boost on the test stand situation.

  13. Update, ran it again, this time MUCH less smoke, same as before turbo. Impeller starting to spool easier, so perhaps there is something to the "breaking in" of the carbon seal. It still will not spool at idle but will at about 1.5k (estimated based on sound). I will run it a few more times (have to limit runs due to noise in the hood, dont want to po neabours) NA then will see about attaching the charge pipe to see if I am generating any boost. Temps look good (180f with the box fan on the front helping, its mucho hot here in the garage). Oil pressure like what you would expect, low at idle but still slinging off cams, power up and raise quickly to about mid point on the gauge (which iirc is a 140psi, not the 90psi). 

    I will get some videos of the setup tomorrow. Hope you guys enjoyed my Nick Saban like rant I posted up a while ago... College football will be cranking up again soon, yea! roll tide!!

    one more thing still negative for exhaust gas in rad, had to check of course.

     

    • Like 2
  14. I got the turbo on, but did not hook up the intake or outlet of the compressor. I check for oil flow by spinning the engine with the plugs out, seemed like quite a bit of oil came out from the bottom port on the turbo. I was concerned that it may starve the top of the engine (cam shaft) of oil so I pulled the valve cover to confrim oil was still flowing from the cam lobes (it was).

    So the moment of truth, it started right up (should as nothing changed but the added exhaust manifold and turbo). BUT there seemed to be a ton of smoke coming from the exhaust pipe, oil  burning smoke. Since the engine did not smoke before the turbo I have to assume its oil from the turbo. I wonder if all that oil getting pumped into it is somehow getting past the bush/bearing and burning. Its the only thing I can think of.

    Also, the turbo will not spin unless I rev it up quite a bit, its pretty stiff, smooth but stiff. The rebuilder warned me of this (so I would not be concerned I suppose) that due to the type of seals used (carbon IIRC) the turbo will require some time running before it loosens up. Anyone have exp with this?

    Lastly I am using the OE oiling system, but the rebuilt turbo did NOT have the same type of fitting for oil in. The rebuilder supplied a fitting that bolts to the turbo and adapts to the banjo bolt. I did not look closely at the orig turbo fitting to see if there was any kind of restriction on the hole size. As is my turbo is getting a straight shot of oil thru a hole that is about 1/8" (the dia of the hole in the bottom of the banjo bolt. 

    Anyway I will be conducting some more test to see if the turbo frees up. I still have to work on getting the charge pipe installed, but I just wanted to try it out as is. 

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