sblake01

On my 72 Z I have done 105mph and it was registered on the odometer plus a gps...... my cojones stop me but the Z felt like it had more in reserve.

Do you know TomoHawk?

You don't have a speedometer application on your iPhone??

I'm trying to get to what that would have to do with his question......anyway, only the 1979 280ZX had a 100mph speedo. On September 1, 1979, a regulation by the NHTSA required speedometers to have special emphasis on the number 55 and a maximum speed of 85 mph. Starting with the 1980 model year, all US 280ZX's went to an 85 mph speedo. 1983 was the only year that offered a digital speedometer but the 85 mph limit was carried over. Somewhere in the mid-80s that regulation was dropped.

(Arne beat me to it)

Never had any issues; heat related, moisture related or otherwise.

Just in case you're wondering where the module is located and why it has that shape, it's inside the distrubutor.

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Since the module is attached to the distributors base plate, it makes you wonder why we're making a big thing about heatsinks? A simple sheet metal base on the fender by the coil should give the module enough cooling air. IMO, protecting it from water would be more important.

I've owned a GM car or two (really about 6) with some variation of that distributor. Including my present 84 Vette. Never had one fail. When I used that module in my 510, I mounted it by the coil, as you said, without any kind of heatsink other than washers between it and the fenderwell and it worked for over 5 years just like that.

I'd put some Kroil or some other penetrating oil in that caliper, let it sit overnight and blast that puppy out with compressed air.

I'm thinking that if he had the rubber, it would be in the ad pictures......and I concur about the value of the bumpers themselves. I had a very good set w/o the rubber from a 77 parts car I once had and ended up junking them when no one wanted to pay 50 bucks for them.

and????

FWIW, I used one of those modules on a 510 I owned. I actually got the module from the junkyard and used it to convert the later model distributor for use on my last 510. My intent was to replace the used module with a new one after I got it all set up. I never did. It worked fine for the 5+ years I owned that car.

I don't know.....still pictures in a video(post #3)...just doesn't do it for me. Instead of TLDNR, TLDNW....

That one is also amongst the commercials on the Z Car microfiche CD. Along with one of my favorites

I think he missed that last sentence in your post (#27).......

That's really all anyone here is asking. Make the effort. Don't cast youself as a victim. Use that same effort you used to finish school and go to Wyotech. You might even look back at this and laugh someday.

So, let me get this straight........you're defending your functional illiteracy?? You're actually going to become belligerent because you're asked to use basic communication skills? You feel that someone is high and mighty because they paid attention in school? A car is minor when compared to the things you really need help with......

(I really tried to stay out of this but that's just too much!)

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I heard putting a handful of mothballs in your gas tank every fill-up will "make it run like a scared rabbit.

mothballs mess up the injectors and im trying to get good power out of it now coz im on a tight budget

Remember what I said in your other thead about people not taking you seriously.......

I've read some of your other posts and, quite frankly, I don't know what it is you're expecting to find here. Probably the reason that some have not taken your posts seriously. If your struts are shot, replace them. If your suspension is bad, fix it. If you need wider tires, put wider tires on. A 280zx 2+2 isn't going to handle like a 240Z. It's going to have a certain amount of body roll anyway by design, bad struts just make it worse. You talk about 'building' your engine, you talk about putting a turbo on it, you even mention putting a RB26 in it (that engine alone is probably worth more than the car will ever be). You say it has a 'lot of rust' (your words). Concentrate on the basics. Get it running right, stopping and starting right, get it to the point where it's a safe vehicle to drive before you contemplate modifications that are probably a little 'over the top' for this car as you've described it.

All I see in the diagram is an HEI module that is connected to the coil and the ECU and grounded.

Am I missing something?? I don't see anything in that pdf showing the hookup(s) at the distributor......

It's the vacuum control knob. When the A/C is on or in the vent position, when it's open you have 85% air flow to the upper vents and 15% to the floor and when it's closed you have 100% to the upper vents and none to the floor. When the heater is on it has no effect.

What a bad post at 4 am, basically i like my car back - it was sold in lisle il around 1985.

I got the general gist of your post. I was just being facetious. It was also a tough read at 5 am, however. Good luck in your search. I've been looking for a Z pretty much ever since I sold the last one I owned.

On the only 78 I've ever seen with the GM HEI module modification done on the 78 distributor, he left the stock module in place reasoning that if he ever wanted to return it to stock that would make it easier. Are you having trouble with the OEM setup? I never did.

Okay...............................

Unless your uncle ran straight water in the cooling system instead of a proper coolant mix, a leaking heater core shouldn't have caused the floor to rust.

I've actually been in one. One of my brother in laws clients has one. He says it cost over $200K and there are less than 100 of them in the US. His other car is a lowly ZR1....must be nice.

Bo e Luca...

That threw me for a minute until I realized what vehicle and country that is.......