gramercyjam

Mmmmmmmmmm. yummy BRAISED fuel lines. Very tasty indeed.

I voted the boobs thread. I am not kidding.

Definitely not in my book.

And then later that year an ad for the new Datsun 1200.

http://nrsccahistory.com/Newsletters/1970/EN7009.pdf

How times have changed.

Nostaligic 1970 Nebrasksa region SCCA newsletter with 240Z advertisement by the local dealer ....

http://nrsccahistory.com/Newsletters/1970/EN7003.pdf

I will, that is one SCCA rule that makes sense but for now I am enjoying all the manuvering room back there.

Did I see a picture of your car at an event with Tom Holt's car? It could have been from last year.

Tom Holt and Rick Martinez and I all showed up with our Z's in FP at the National Tour in Houston and divisional at the Avon/Cooper tire test center as well as some Spokes events. The pics were probably from one of those. Me and the Z are resting this year so it hasn't been out of the garage and I'm driving a Miata and an MR2 in E Stock.

I am just finishing my offset 3 gallon "fuel cell" and Design Products (old Tilton style) camber plates installation. If I can figure out enough insulation I will be moving the muffler to that side too to help offset my fat a**.

Don't forget, you will need something to cover it up. Like a bulkhead or a cover or something to keep it separated from the interior of the car.

It's been around for a while. The biggest attraction is environmental, no used media disposal problems.

Sorry to hear you are letting you baby go Ken. It was good seeing you out at the autox last week. This is a good car.

It won't sound anything like a honda. It will sound good, but it will be quite loud without the resonator.

Exactly the opposite. Larger change in throttle is a smaller change at the rear tires. Less responsive. It's real easy to mash down the pedal. Resonsivleness is something amatuers worry about. That is _easy_ to achieve. The key is control. How closely can you walk the line between a crash and a win?

gramercyjam: Wouldn't that simply be because you have more power 'on tap' so to speak, in the higher gear, than in the lower gear? If you had an engine with double the capacity, making the same power at half the revs (everything else being equal) it'd behave much the same around the corner at that lower rev point.

Thats not what I'm talking about. I'm talking about control of power. This is due to gear ratios. input RPM/output RPM. fine thread VS coarse thread. 100:1 VS 1:1.

2 Things about the XR700 - Both these things have a tremendous impact on performance.

1. mine never ran right with the ballast resistor. Although the instruction say to use one with a coil without an internal resistor, taking it off was a big improvement on mine. It has been that way for years now without burning out a coil.

2. make sure the photosensor is "phased" according to the instructions. That is when the rotor is pointing to a plug wire on the cap (at the advance you have set), the interruptor should be just breaking the optical beam. So in this order - set the initial advance, phase the photosensor, check the initial advance. If you change the initial advance, adjust the phasing again.

BTW, I run 18 deg initial advance. Always have, even on a stock carbed motor.

Dave,

You can't do what you don't dream of first. Your questions are valid, but you must understand that high rpm is NOT the goal, but the results of trying to build the most HP out of a regulated size of engine. Thats why F-1 engines rev so high.

I'll just jump in here with a counterpoint. Although I have never read or heard this view, from my own experience, I suspect that high RPM's may actually be part of the car control puzzle.

Have you ever notice that it is much easier to drive at the limit in corners in a lower gear at high RPM's than a higher gear at low RPM's? I have.

They may be from a ZX. I pulled a few 5 speeds lately from the JY and make sure and take these with me as I like them better than what was on my 240. Plus the nuts eventually get rounded off because they are hard to get a wrench on (yours are headed that way) and they are certainly a better grade and fit than what you can buy as replacements at the hardware store.

Ignitor transistor (on the coil) dying? The condenser is there for radio noise supression.

Those attached the drive shaft to the diff.

I contacted the seller says he won't let anyone look at the car. I bet there is no car.

They should have a "choke", I think they call it an encrichment circuit, unless they were removed for racing.

I don't have mine hooked up. Never needed them. For cold start, turn on fuel pump, wait a few seconds, pump the gas pedal 5 times. Ignition!

I think that's the way most people do it.

Tokico Illuminas has a lifetime guarantee, if they wear out, send them back for replacement. No they don't come apart or anything like that so you can't regas them or replace seals or revalve them.

I use them with 300# eibach ERS coilovers (shocks are set on 1 or 2 in the front, 2 or 3 in the rear) and they seem fine to me. At some point I'll probably upgrade to stiffer springs, so I will probably need a different set of shocks, but I'll wear these out first.

I've never tried the Konis, but since the Konis can be revalved/rebuilt, they might be a better choice for those who race and want to go with a stiffer spring.

Obviously not. Unless your head isn't original.

wrong. Next time you have the head off, look at your seats. If it is original, it probably has bronze intake seats.

Most of us bring our own race gas. VP fuels C12. Just because we like the sweet smell.

Google weber carb part and start calling. I found mine a couple years ago, and I don't see their website up anymore. It took about 2 months to get the right screws. At least you know that there are the right ones, and the wrong ones. I didn't until I got the wrong ones.