inline6

Interesting... That is a running production change to improve a problem, in my opinion. 240Z rear hatches do not have that bracket, nor any support in that area. So, the entire outer panel moves inward when you press on the lock button if you are not careful. I will be making a support for my hatch to eliminate that issue. It seems that Nissan did the same thing on the later Z.

Hi Wally, Color and type of finish depends on the year. My two 240z's had a black coating applied at the factory What model and year are you working with?

A part that is almost always long gone on our 240z's, I am hoping to find a nearly identical to factory replacement "rubber bellows" for the choke cables for the car I am restoring. Somewhere in my thousands of hours of web-surfing, I found this picture of some of the originals: Does anyone have any originals that they could pull some measurements off of? I am looking for dimensional details of both the boots and the collars/clamps that secure the boot to the cable and sheath. I would like to fabricate the collars... but I need more info. Here are some boots I am hoping are close enough:

It has evolved some, and now it consists of: Using these glass beads from Northern Tool and Equipment, important for size of grain, and bead blasting at 90 psi with a 1/8th inch nozzle to remove all rust, and to establish a consistent finish. I use one of these baskets and find that putting a variety of hardware (big and small) is great for trapping the parts in place so I can blast them without them flying around too much. For large parts, you don't need to use the basket, and you can then go back over them with the pressure at 50 psi to put a smoother, easier to "second stage prep" by hand, finish. For all hardware (bolts, washers, nuts, screws and odd small bits), I go straight from glass bead blasting to tumbling in one of these vibratory tumblers. I now use a stainless steel media (bought from Southern Shine Tumblers on Facebook). See pic below. It consists of tiny little bits of stainless steel that are good at getting into tight spaces, like between threads, phillips head recesses, etc. And now I use it dry. I was using water and a bit of citric acid, but I think that is best for doing brass shell casings. I was fighting keeping the parts from starting to oxidize/rust, and have found that the media works better and faster dry... to put a nice finish on the hardware. Time in the tumbler is about 2-3 hours. For large parts that I can't tumble, I use a Dremel tool and the little wire wheel brush attachments after glass bead blasting. For final, more consistent finish, I follow wire brushing by hand rub the large parts with #0000 fine steel wool. Doesn't take a lot of work by hand, but the combination of using the Dremel followed by fine steel wool by hand does end up taking some time. The glass bead finish can be altered on aluminum parts, by the way. It can look really nice, if after going over it once with 90 psi, you lower the pressure and go over the part slowly. Extending the distance from the gun tip to the part also smooths out the finish, giving it a nice satin look. I am still experimenting, with some aluminum parts, but a once over with 90 psi to clean followed by a once over with 50 psi achieves a really nice finish.

Prepping hardware... Will it ever end??????????? 🙂 Only a vague idea if this is good enough. Perhaps, some of it is overkill. Thanks for the guidance about prep level on the hardware. I have probably been going overkill on some. I hope I can finally send everything off in a couple of weeks. A lot of the larger stuff (wiper linkage, hard lines, etc.) is not shown here:

So, two separate requests - for a bell housing to mod for the SX trans swap, and I need a replacement "reverse check sleeve" for a spare 280ZX trans I have. I only included a pic of the reverse check sleeve. I have a spare 4 speed bell housing, but I would prefer a 5 speed one so I don't have to drill a hole for the reverse switch in a thin area of the casting. Hmmm, I guess I could add an aluminum boss to that area of the casting...

I found the time to pull the lines out of the box of hardware. Here's what I have: The line which is attached to the compensator is the NOS (new old stock) one. It is series 1, or per the parts manual up to 9/1971. The line just to the left is one of two that came with the car. Other than the bend towards the top, it looks like the same part as my NOS one. The line at the right in the pic is the other one that came with the car. It looks very similar to the correct series 1 line for the front circuit, but it won't line up with the correct master cylinder as is. It would need to be twisted a bit if attached to the compensator to align with the front circuit on the correct master cylinder. It looks to me like the car still has the original hard lines... that they were tweaked a bit to fit the later cylinder.

View Advert Need a bell housing from an FS5W71B 5 speed I am putting a 240sx transmission in my Z and would like a FS5W71B bell housing to do the swap. Looks like a bell housing from pretty much any Datsun/Nissan 5 speed from 75-83 will be right. Also, I would like one of these in the pic. Not sure what you call it, but it does something with the shifting rods. Advertiser inline6 Date 07/25/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 0 Model 240z

I have purchased from that site (him) several times. My most recent order was in December. No delays in communication whatsoever. I bought a coil, two Hella H4 bulbs, no longer available nos oem door strikers some grease caps and some NGK plugs. B2433-U3110 coil $60 (ended up buying a blem unit for less) 80570-21000 rh door latch striker on body $16 80571-21000 lh door latch striker on body $16 99996-70476 Hella h4 kit $60 40234-S0400 set of 2 front wheel bear dust grease cap $14.30 (6) of NGK BP6ES $2 each Garrett

Oh! Well, that is a bummer because I may not have one of the hard lines I need then. 46221-E4601 for the front, is the one I may not have (#1 here in the "microfiche"). I happen to have a new old stock #2 though. I don't have any pics of these lines on the car I am restoring. I'll need to grab them and new style MC and a compensator to see what's what. Whoever fitted the new style cylinder may have bent the existing lines to fit rather than swapping them. If so, perhaps I can bend the front line back to original shape.

Yes, that is very helpful. So, for the later style, you "swap the lines". Because they are hard lines, I am guessing "swap the lines" isn't literal? You leave the hard lines in place at the compensator and bend them so they "swap locations" at the master cylinder? These are pictures from my 240z "track" car. It is a series 1 with a later style master cylinder on it.

It took a while for me to notice, but the master cylinder which came mounted in the engine compartment of the car I am restoring is actually the "later style" which is "incorrect" for the restoration I am doing. It is this one which is for 240z's from 9/1971: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-master-cylinder/from-sep-71 The one which was original on my car (6/1971 production) is this one: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-master-cylinder/to-aug-71 I was able to source one off of eBay that is in surprisingly good shape and I happen to have an old rebuild kit for it which I bought back in the early 1990's: My question is this: given the front and rear circuits are reversed between the two, what do I have to do, precisely to put the original brake master cylinder back in the car so that the circuits are matched up properly? Or, asked another way, what is typically done to fit the later style cylinder to the earlier car? I note that these earlier style MC's are nearly unavailable now. So, I am guessing that people are frequently putting the later style in the early cars at this point. I found one relevant thread by searching, but it doesn't have quite the info I need.

I came across this video recently and was intrigued. I haven't tried this yet.

That is fine. As far as Randy goes, I'd just like to stop by and have a look at his cars for an hour some day.

His place is near me evidently. I need to investigate and go check it out.

Updated list: New: Seat belt - black plastic cover for buckle clip (see pic) (or will buy belts with these buckle covers:) Also, need one black plastic loop like in this picture as well: Still needed from my original list: original radiator without automatic transmission fittings - need upper and lower tanks/caps to be usable Seat recline knobs (not cracked) -- item #6 in the picture here: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/seat-slide/type-1-adjuster-seat/6 metal engine fan blade assembly and possibly mounting hardware Amco - aftermarket rubber floor mats 4 pieces of rubber trim originally glued to corners of tool door compartments (these compartments are in the front of the rear hatch deck/floor area) original 14" Bridgestone 175HR14 RADIAL RD-150 spare tire. Prefer DOT code of (check DOT code on tire) "221", "231", "241" or "251", but let me know what yours is original carpet padding "jute" (brown horse hair like stuff). This "jute" was originally installed under the front floor carpet mats, under the seats, under the center tunnel diamond textured vinyl trim, and under the carpet in the rear hatch deck/floor. This stuff is fragile, and it would be nice, if you have any that is in good condition, to take some care with removal (it was glued to the tunnel) and care with packaging for shipment. Removal with diamond patterned vinyl trim/cover still attached (glued) to the top side of the jute would be preferred. 4 original hubcaps for a 6/1971 240z (early style) battery cover (the plastic related parts) for 1971 240z original scissor jack and related red painted jack tools, yellow wheel chocks and black vinyl tool bag. I am looking for some in really nice condition. There are letters stamped into the base of the jack that need to start with the letter Q (1971), and then be followed by F (June) as the second letter, then followed by A through Z or AA through EE as the third letter. As best I can tell, I need a jack with any of the following stamps: (QFS, QFT, QFU, QFV, QFW, QFX, QFY, QFZ, QFAA, QFBB, QFCC)

The work to prep the hardware for plating is laborious. Also, I have been trying to make sure I track down every last piece of hardware. The car was not fully assembled when I bought it, so trying to identify everything is difficult and time consuming. I am having some repeatable success with my hardware prepping process. Basically it involves bead blasting to strip, stainless media in the vibratory tumbler to remove the glass bead finish, and corn cobb metal with a metal polish in the vibratory tumbler to polish the parts followed by a Dremel tool with wire brush attachments and sometimes #0000 stainless steel wool to make the finish more consistent after the dremel wire wheels. I got a wire wheel attachment for my 8" bench grinder and gave that a shot for a few seconds. In addition to scaring me because I think it will take a body part off, it is way too aggressive for cleaning hardware. Oh well, only about $15 and will certainly come in handy for something. I thought I would share what I found out about the water pipe that goes around the back of the cylinder head. First, I bought the one that Motorsport sells. As you can see in the picture here, where I compare it to my original, it is quite different. The bracket is much taller. So the pipe is different to match. It would probably work, but I had an idea to fix my old one. Basically, the old pipe is in good condition except for the part where the hoses attached. Under the hose, the pipe corroded quite severely. Figuring that some modern Nissan would share a similar part, I went looking using image search on Google and came across a part that is not too expensive (about $25) that has what I need - good ends. It is a Nissan/INFINITI 14053-EA20B Engine Coolant Pipe (pictured on the right in the third pic here): It is the same diameter and has enough straight length for me to rob what I need off of it. I cut 25 mm off of each end and off of my old one. Then I decided to break in my Tig welder, which I bought 1 and half years ago - 😦. I know... right! Well, I finally overcame the trepidation of the learning curve and got it fired up. I practiced on the carcass of the new pipe for a bit and then managed to get two tack welds to hold one of the new ends on. I will practice some more on the sacrificed pipe before I finish weld the new ends onto my old one. I will test it for leaks of course. I think it will look really nice when I am done and have it prepped to be re-plated.

Most of my spares. Note that the ones which are dull grey are newer oem ones with the hex head. However, I have many here with the correct pan head and those screws can be swapped. Left-most are too big in diameter or wrong style. I need to know what diameter you are looking for specifically. The two gold ones are the newer style with hex heads, but I believe I have the proper screws in the right size to swap to those clamps. The four grey ones in the second column from the right look about right for the radiator, and I know I have the proper screws for those. You would need to send these off for re-plating in zinc (clear - which is silver in color) if you want them to look like factory.

Yep. They were originally silver, and I will be re-plating mine to silver instead of gold. Jim, if you confirm fuel pump clamp style, let me know. I have many different size OEM clamps in silver that I stripped from Datsun's years ago.

Yep. They are.

I may have what you need, both fuel and otherwise. Do you have an original fuel one to look at? They differ in style from the larger clamps. Here is what the ones on my car's fuel lines look like, though they were silver in color from the factory:

Attention grabbing for me for my restoration. Some number of fasteners is missing - I need to find and add. I will clean it up a bit as I progress on it. 🙂

I have been working on documenting the fasteners on the car. When I finish all of the documentation of the hardware, I will upload a worksheet to the resources section. In the meantime, anyone with a google account can access what I have so far by going to the link: Datsun 240z hardware - 6/1971

I see it has been a long time since I posted an update. I am still working on fasteners. I suspect that I am putting too much time into them, but I have no experience with getting hardware replated. So, I feel I can't leave it up to chance. I will probably send some "test" hardware along with it in various stages of prep or lack thereof. It will be interesting to see how the test hardware compares to my fully prepped hardware. I have a few observations to share, but not much of an update. First, the u bolt that holds the steering rack from twisting on the front crossmember - I happen to have two. There is a white blot of paint from the factory. I noted that under the white blot, the part was silver. So, this part seems to have received zinc plating (clear) from the factory. The clips that secure a rubber weather strip to the unibody under the top of the fender, here in their as removed condition. Amazing that they don't even have rust on their entire surface: The battery inspection panels have these metal clips. I find it interesting that they received a black coating originally that is not paint. This is actually consistent with other black plated parts I have found on the car. Black parts are, nearly without exception, springs or springy. The bushing in the bracket that bolts to the engine compartment firewall, which supports the back of the main throttle rod, is always rotten on any 240z. It is a two piece bushing, with a plastic inner barrel and a rubber outer grommet. The rubber part broke when I pried it out of the bracket. Here it is temporarily put back together: First pic has half of grommet removed. Middle pic is of the plastic barrel by itself. I will be trying to source a similar bushing from McMaster Carr. And lastly for today, I find it interesting that the hatch hinges were bolted into the car when it was painted at the factory. The odd part about that is that the rubber enclosure was in place also. My car had shims on the right side hinge only, and you can see by the original paint that they were in place when the car was painted. This, and the fact that the taper head bolts that hold the hatch to the hinges were not originally painted, tells me that the hinges and hatch were bolted to the car for fitment, and then the hatch was removed (the four taper head screws only were removed) for the original paint application at the factory. Also, hinge assemblies and shims were clear zinc, and backing plates were yellow chromate/cad. I think I am nearing the end of the great fastener round up and restoration of 2020/2021. I ordered some new ones a couple of days ago to fill in for the small number of originals that went missing at some point. I am digging through my boxes of old Datsun hardware to find suitable replacements also. I am having some success there, finding matching hardware with 4's and 7's and 9's on the heads of bolts - proper style and length. Yeah... I am more than a bit OCD I think.

Thanks for that. I see differences in the brackets. I will work on mine more and make it look like that one.