Dr. 240Z

Installed the new switch and she's back to starting as she should.

As a note to others, there is a short video (Google) on how to go about replacing an ignition switch on an old Z. I found this was helpful.

Yarb, I suspect you are correct. That said, having lost a lot of last year with Koni front strut issues, I'm buying my way out of this distraction, asap. Get the whole for $60 or part for $32, I chose the former, and the order is already in the system.

Thanks for you responses.

For the cost of a replacement, I've elected to order a complete replacement. At my age I want to get her back on the road and not be distracted about the possibility of it failing again. Someday soon my Z will be my son's Z and he's not very mechanically inclined.

Thanks,

George

Steve, The source of the problem has to do with the ignition switch and/or the ignition key receptor. The solenoid is working as it should.

Zed Head, I have narrowed down the problem to the ignition switch and/or the barrel that accepts the key. As is, both keys are originals and I'm thinking they might need replacing.

Just now, I have discovered that if I apply either up or down pressure on the key as I'm turning (rotating) it to the START position, I can get the contact(s) needed to activate the solenoid and subsequently get the engine started.

So, the question now is if this an is problem that can be readily fixed or do I start fresh with a new unit ( keys, barrel and switch). I sourced a complete replacement at Z-Car Depot for $60.00 (on sale). My preference is to fix.

Thanks

Thanks, Steve....Appreciated

Suggestions Please:

As is, my Series I (Jan. '71 build) will start. The problem is it is taking more and more turns of the ignition key to get it to fire-up. The only constant is that every time I turn the key for ignition, I hear a very audible 'click' coming from a relay(?) mounted on the interior wall in the area of the passenger's right knee. In addition to this clicking sound, I can feel the actual internal movement by touching the metal housing with my right hand while turning on the ignition with my left hand.

To help with a diagnosis, the battery is strong, and the wiring contacts to the starter motor are clean. Also, this problem occurs the same with both sets of the original ignition keys.

So, is the problem coming from the keys, the key barrel, the relay (as noted above), or farther down the line to the starter? Where do I begin?

Thanks

Perfect....Many thanks...very appreciated

Question: In the attached picture, one can see a metal thimble shaped bushing (top left of the five small parts). Nowhere in the schematic instruction sheet that came with parts does it show where this part is supposed to be positioned in the final assembly. I need help as I'm not smart enough to figure that out for myself. Thanks

After taking my Z off the road in early November 2024, I'm back to trying to get these Koni shocks properly fitted in my Series 1. If any member has any updates from their Koni fitting experience(s), please share. Thanks

Just a note to say thanks to those who have responded to my recent appeal. It is somewhat comforting to know that this issue isn't new and/or unique to my current situation. I will be contacting MSA, accordingly.

Thanks,

George

As there hasn't been a new post on Koni struts for some time, I'm hoping to get help. As is, I'm attempting to install new Koni struts (model; 23-1031 KONI Struts) on my Series I. The struts were back ordered and arrived in July. Fast forward, the new struts (yellow) are a little too long to fit as they should. I have spoken with 'Dave' at 'Motorsport Auto - The Z Store' the supplier, and he assured me that they sent the correct struts. Anyone else in this situation? Just wondering if the bolt at the bottom of the housing could be safely ground down without creating potential damage. Suggestions are welcomed...Thanks  

Steve,

Many thanks...appreciated

George

On 9/17/2021 at 6:49 PM, wheee! said:

Doors and hatch are fitting much better. Still some adjustments to make.

 

Hi, I had a call about the Kia Sportage  door seal from a chap rebuilding a Series I. I used one about six years ago, but can't recall much.

Please help: What model year(s) of Sportage had this seal? If you have it, what is the KIA part number?

Thanks,

George

Rims are 14" aftermarket which accommodate  195/70/14 tires

I'd appreciate recommendations on replacing the summer tires on my Series I. It's been ~ ten years with the present 195/70/14 so it's time to change.

Thanks,

George

Please help!

Finally found the correct spring (eBay in Australia) for my Series I 

Please advise me on how to install a new spring in the driver's door lower hinge. Attached are pictures of this older style lower hinge on the passenger side door.

Thanks,

George 

Somewhere between rectangular boring and this is what the front should aspire to:

Porsche Taycan Coupe Is Drop-Dead Gorgeous (msn.com)

FYI:   Why the New Nissan Z Has a Retro Design (msn.com)

August 17, 2021 debut:

2022 Nissan 400Z Will Debut August 17 in Production Form (caranddriver.com)

On the road-show tour in USA:

The 2022 Nissan 400Z Spotted on Public Streets! - YouTube

2022 Nissan 400Z Images Leaked, Appear to Show Production Car (caranddriver.com)

2022 Nissan 400Z Images Leaked, Appear to Show Production Car (caranddriver.com)

March 27th, 2021

Here's another teaser:

Nissan 400Z Leaks in Production Form at Los Angeles Shipping Warehouse (msn.com)

Look'n like sombody was listening!

Thanks....Now we know there's at least one in North America

Disappointed in the front end esthetics...Was hoping for a redesign of that ugly rectilinear box of a grill

My old girl turns fifty on May 13th. It was love at first sight and still is!