EuroDat

Thats a big difference in size. I didn't know they changed the size over the years. After seeing that I went out to the garage and checked mine. It looks tight, no gaps, I must of been lucky and got the right one, I guess. Chas

That is an interesting read, by that I mean post #21 in Southbend. The rest of the thread seems to be a rant over his clutch not performing to his expectations. I never knew it was called a marcel spring btw. Ive learnt something today:bulb: Datsun probably increased the size of the marcel spring in the S30 model over the years. I can't remember what the compressed distance was on the 240Z disc. We clamped the two in a bench vice to measure how far they compressed and measured them. The monaro clutch compresed a lot more. Chas

Thats a great link you posted Zed Head. Clearly shows all the inner workings of the clutch assembly. I didn't think the cushioning plate made that much difference to the "height of" engagement. It was more the duration of engagement and not just an on / off engagement like you get with performance clutches which don't have it at all. I beleive the centre point of the diaphragm spring has an effect. If you get the chance to compare the (240Z with the 280Z) model pressure plates, you will see the fulcrum point is a little further towards the outer section. I think Datsun did this in there general move to "refine" the car and slowly move away for that sports car feel the 240Z had. The 280Z pressure plates have the same clamping pressure, but then engage at a higher point and have a softer pedal. The disc in the early 240Z series 1 had little cushioning effect. Going back to the early 1980's. My best friend had one and the clutch engaged low. We had the clutch out several times and if I can remeber correctly, we were surprised at how little cushion effect it had compared to the monaro 350GTS I had, but we were told that was normal. I wonder if putting the 240Z pressure plate in the 280Z will give it that effect. They both have the same clamping pressure.

Hi Bart, Amazed that old thing came up so clean. I seen you bidding for it on marktplaats. Good buy after all:cool:. Hi Sarah, I think we have all been burned at least once by this sort of traders. I had one sell me genuine parts, when he should have said; Cheaply made crappy repros copied from originals. He would take them back, but I would have to pay the shipping back to the states. Yer right, $60 shipping to get $50 back:stupid: Thanks for the compliments. Chas

Hi 6pak, Welcome to the club. I have the 280Z (S30) which uses almost the same FI system for the engine. There is not much you can adjust on these systems and the ECU tend to lean out over time. Rich is mostly because a component is failing or wrongly adjusted/installed. Was it running rich when you drove it the 700km? Could be several things causing rich conditions, but if it started after changing the injectors, it could be as simple as wrong capacity injectors or the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) is set too high. If it just started then I would check the fuel pressure and also the fuel injectors. They should be the 188cc units, but you might have the turbo model injectors. You could flow test them against one or two "good" functioning old injectors. Fit a guage in the fuel line between the filter and the FPR to check the presuure. If you check the forum section in the 280Z fuel injection system, you will find threads on this. The FPR should be somewhere around 25-28psi at idle and max at 36psi when you remove the vacuum line from the FPR. Its important that its not always sending 36psi pressure, that will make it run rich. Here is a site for manuals and reference material: XenonS130 - S130 Reference Good luck solving your problem. Chas

Looking forward to seeing photo's. When I did mine I didn't take any photo's and regret it ever since. Mine had a loose left inner knuckle, so I ground through the tack welds and retentioned it to the specs in the FSM. That was probably the biggest improvement. Cleaned and regreased it and put it back together. It works a lot smoother now. Lenny: My post is a little of track, but I couldn't resist a replying. Cheers Chas

Hi Mark, Welcome to the club and grats with your purchase. Like to see some photo's I have a 280Z and I agree with Dave. The clutch disengages higher than the earlier 240Z. The 280Z pressure plates is different compared to the 240Z. If the PO hasn't been changing parts and mix matching between models then the clutch pedal will be the only section you can adjust. You can find the procedure to adjust it in the FSM which you can download here XenonS30 See section CL-6 Clutch pedal adjustment. Make sure the return spring is working properly and the pedal moves freely. Another simple check, is to push the clutch fork back into the slave cylinder. It should push in a little, maybe 10mm can't remember the exact figures for a new clutch. Check the reservoir for capacity, it might overflow if its full. If you can't get any free movement there, you may need to adjust the pedal. The pedal is not releasing the fluid back in the master cylinder. That can cause your problem and will also allow the clutch to slip and increase wear on the release bearing. I changed mine to a 240mm clutch out of a 2+2. It feels a lot firmer and a has a lot more grip. Chas

Hi Bart, The kit you have looks more like a 280ZX rear wheel bearing kit. Thats bad news Im afraid. BRT507,BRT Bearings BRT507 Wheel Bearing Kit for NISSAN Z Partscentre in Zuid-Beijerland stock rear bearing kits for €80 per wheel. That might be your best option. They use QJZ bearings, I believe they are made in china, but they seem to be good quality. Z Parts Centre :: 240-260-280Z rear wheel bearing kit Like I said in the other thread, manufactures of the outer bearing (GRW117) are getting hard to find. SKF still make them, but at a price. PS: As far as I know, the 240Z through to 280Z are the same. They changed when they went to the 280ZX (S130) models. Chas

Lenny, Grats with the test run. A brave man setting a release date while still in the middle of R&D. Keeps you focussed if anything else. Goodluck with development. You can add me to your list of buyers. Chas

Hoi Bart, I changed mine a while back too. The right side coupling on the rack also had some play in it. You have to cut the tack weld to adjust it. Took me a while to get the pre-load right. After those two repairs, nearly all play in the steering is gone. Any luck with your vibration? Chas

E-tek, Thats a nice job you have done on the suspension parts. Looks neat. I wonder how it will hold up to daily use? Your project is coming along nicely. Keep up the good work. Chas

Yep. Thats why my Zed won't see daylight until April. The weather here has been good so far, but when they start using salt on the roads its bad news for any Zed. Lets face, rust prevention wasn't Datsuns strong point. Chas

Great photo shoot. Congrats. Whish I was that oldLOL Chas

I would try to remove all or as much as possible salt. That stuff will kill the car. What you can see is your least problem. Your biggest problem is getting it "all" cleaned off. Since it was water/salt being splashed up, it wil be hard to get places. A good treatment is phosphoric acid. You can apply that to rust and it will turn the reddish colour rust (iron oxide) to a black colour (feric phosphate). If the reddish colour is still visable, than you need to clean it off and do it again until all the reddish colour is gone. The black residue can be left on the surface to help protect the it. Phosphoric acid is commonly called rust converter or rust killer in shops, but you can also buy it in 85% concentrate. Phosphoric acid - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Chas

It looks clean on the photo's he posted. Nothing showing the rust areas though. Pitty is not a matching numbers car. That reduces the collectability a bit. I wonder what it will go for? It almost $10k now and reserve not met. Chas

With the good weather we are having here, I have been side tracked a little trying to finish things in the back yard. Turning this Into this. Still not finished All the molds are done and I changed all the insulators (or what was left of the insulators after 37 years of aging) except the two small insulators on the clutch line under the brake booster. They are still in good condition. I had some trouble getting the F6 insulator to fit. In one bracket it was not very tight and the other it was too tight. The brackets are slightly different, but Nissan quotes the same insulator mmm. I ended up making a new mold and "adjusting" the metal bracket on the loose one to fit better. Its onlt 2mm smaller, but it makes a big difference. The insulator doesn't buldge out anymore. Ill take some photo's on the weekeind when I have more light. If anyone is interested in a set. Send me a pm. Chas

Hi Bart, Sent you a PM, but thought it might be handy for others to post the wheel bearings info here as well. When I did mine two years back, I ordered the bearings from Nissan and they sent SKF bearings in Nissan packaging. Bearings: Inner: Nissan p/n: 43215-E4100 (Nachi RLS10-C4) --> SKF GRW116 Outer: Nissan p/n: 43210-E4100 (NSK B31Z-16C4) --> SKF GRW117 In brackets is what came out of my car. Oil seal Nissan p/n: 43232-E4100 (€5,45/ea) There is not many manufacturers making the outer bearing these days. Warning: Only use the C4 tolerance bearings. The C3 bearings (smaller tolerances) will run much hotter and wear out quickly. See attachment for SKF catalog. You can search the PDF. Just use the first numbers, eg: 43232 and keep searching till you find the Nissan part number you want. With the SKF number you can find other manufacture of you choice. The raer wheel bearings are on page 315 (screen shot). Succes Chas SKF_Catalog.pdf

Lenny, Congrats on the start. Yet another sucessfull milestone and congratos on the up and coming new family member:) Chas

I wouldn't sugest doing it to a street car. I don't think Terry is that impressed with it either, but his car my have had a previous life as a "paddock basher". That happens often in Australia. Farmers give their kids the old retired family car to dive around the farm and to give it better traction, they weld the diff. Yep, been there, done that so to spreak. Chas

One of the guys restoring a 240K sedan has an example of a R180 welded. Its in post 145 of this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-240k-discussion/44259-terrys-project-240k-2.html IMG_2335.jpg Photo by terry_350 | Photobucket Shows what Zed is refering to about welding a standard (spider gear) diff. Cheers Chas

Hi Jake, Welcome to the club. I had the same problem you are having, but as you already sugested and check, my problem was the harness connector to the hazard light switch. If you are getting power, it could be the flasher can? Something common to all indicator lights. Here are some handy links that might help you track down your problem. FSM (Factory Service Manual) XenonS30 280Z Colour Wiring Diagram Rev K. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/13131-color-wiring-diagram-280z.html The last revision has a couple of changes for the Hazard light relay. I had it printed on A1 paper and use it in the garage a lot. Thanks to Wayne (wal280z) for the effort he put into it. PS I would love to have one of those tyre inflators, some people have all the luck. Oh and that "stupid light under the hood" is one of those funky little Datsun things we Zed owners have grown to like. Cheers Chas

Hi Bart, Thats great news that you finally got the diff. Bit of a bummer that you still have that vibration issue. The front of my diff has a counterweight and the PO welded extra weights on it. I took it off because his welding was pretty raged to say the least. I soon discovered why it was on there. It had a vibration around 80km/hr. Put it back on and it was gone. We have done this on centrifuges where I work. Thats the thing with vibrations. If you play with weights you can change the zone of the frequency which causes the vibration. It won't stop vibrations, but it can more them to a zone where you won't have any problems. If you can't stop the leak, you can order a new Diff cover gasket at your local Nissan dealer for €2.85. The gasket and breather are still available. Goodluck and sucess hunting. Chas

Nice little addition. I wonderif they dropped the manual thottle when they changed to the water heated carb and the E88 inlet manifold. The E46 inlet manifolds didn't have the water passages to the carb body. The SU's also had the 4 screw domes. Chas

Hi Steve, They look a lot better than the stuff you can buy at MSA. I thunk they just use the fuel lid rubber which is not the same. Your attention to detail is faultless. Now when are you going to start restoring a 280;) Then I wont have to bother making all that stuff. My shopping list is getting bigger. I am planning on ordering some stuff, but I want to order everything at once to reduce the shipping. Chas

Will this mean you have one key fits all? Something I only dream of. Mine has 4 keys I have seen people remove the tumblers and reposition the pins in Opels. Is that also possible with the Zed? At least the doors and hatch would then be the same. Goodluck with it Chas