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EuroDat

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Everything posted by EuroDat

  1. I agree with zed head. Sounds a lot like bad module or a short to ground in the negative (blue) going to the coil. It looks like you are narrowing the problem down. Good luck with it. Chas
  2. I agree with zed head. Sounds a lot like bad module or a short to ground in the negative (blue) going to the coil. It looks like you are narrowing the problem down. Good luck with it. Chas
  3. Yes, I have the MSA fibre glass bumper already fitted, but still using the 280Z valance. The problem with that combination is it leaves a rather large air gap between the bottom two row grille and the bumper. The 240Z valance wont fit because the front frame section drops down to low for the larger 280Z radiator. I had two options: 1- Fit the 240Z bumper with the 280Z valance or 280Z air-dam and make a new lower grille (parts out of a 240Z grille) to fill the gap. 2- go full 240Z look with the indicators under the bumper, 240Z grille and a 240Z air-dam. I found a 240Z grille in good condition, but then decided to go with option 2. Now I have a 240Z air-dam and plan on fitting it in the next months. Chas
  4. Ic you are changing the pinion, you should replace the o-ring seal on the pinion adapter and the lip seal in the adapter. Don't wont to go to all that trouble and have it leak afterwards. If you don't have a punch the remove the roll pin, you can use a wood nail from the hardware store. Just file the point flat so its square with the rol pin. It should tap out easy. Chas
  5. Your project is coming along nicly. Really looking good. Nice job on the lenses. My taillights were just as bad and the chrome bezels were painted black by the po. I have a set of 240Z lenses for the front, just haven't got around to doing the air dam yet. Ended up cleaning up the 280 units in the grill. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/50956-280z-front-turn-signal-refresh.html Looking forward to seeing the projects journey to completion. Chas
  6. If the coil tests ok and it turns out to be the TIU in the dizzy there is a write up in http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/51102-gm-hei-module-install.html#post446171 on how to replace it with a HEI module. A HEI module costs as little as $10 and will get it running. Gives you time to search for a good replacement distributor or make the HEI a perminent fix. I had similar problems on my 77 280Z and did the HEI mod. The 280Z system is a little different with the TIU in the car, but the principle workings are the same. Chas
  7. Hi Tamo, Nice mod and good clear instruction. Looking forward to seeing finished/installed pics. Do you have the specs for the CS144? Cheers Chas
  8. EuroDat posted a post in a topic in Fuel Injection
    Hi Chickenman, Im using genuine Nissan filters to the best of my knowledge, but the Datsun 280Z was not in Europe so the Nissan dealers here may source their fuel filters locally. I would have thought there would be enough 280ZX around in Europe to keep the real thing, but maybe not. Chas
  9. EuroDat posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    I managed to take a couple of snaps of the bumper mounts. Mind you its on a 280Z, so I imagine it will be a little different on a 240Z. The slotted mount for the front two mounts should be centered better on the 240Z. Mine are at the inner limit of the slot because I using the old shock mounting points for now. I also used bolts with a lock nut in the bumper so I could adjust it easier. You can see them in the side ear photos. The photo also shows the poor finish of the left side end compared to the right which is clean. It was a quick and easy mod and I am pretty happy with the end result. Ill fit the air-dam this winter. Cheers Chas
  10. EuroDat posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Hi Cliff, Ill try to take a threw photos from behind the bumper later tonight and post them. Give you a bit of an idea what the brackets look like. Chas
  11. EuroDat posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    I have one on the fornt of my 280Z. I bought it in Feb 2014. Positive: Fitted well. Did need a little sanding on the inside line to match passenger side valance. Mounting brackets are slotted which allows room for adjustment. No pitting in fibreglass surface. I have seen others with a lot of pits in the surface. Cheap. Im using it for testing. Plan to buy a harrington SS bumper (much) later when car is resprayed. Negative It will need some work to look really neat. The end "Caps" are not finished very well. Storage scuffs. Will need painting to fix it. Nothing serious, but its visable. See photos. Chas
  12. Next time it does it get someone to help you check for spark at one of the sparkplugs. It could be your TIU failing when it warms up. Mine was doing something similar. The TIU is behind the kick panel on the passengers side. When it happens again, you could try spraying it with contact cleaner to coolit down. I ended up replacing the TIU with a HEI module. You never know, it could be that simple. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/52621-fitting-hei-module-transistor-ignition-unit-1977-280z.html Chas
  13. EuroDat posted a post in a topic in Electrical
    Thanks for dragging this thread up Tomo. Forgotabout it. Good reading it again:)
  14. My 280Z has been going strong since I made the HEI mod. Certainly better that the old tiu. It revs to 6000rpm not problems even under full throttle. I don't go about 6000rpm so its good enough for my stock L28. chas
  15. The IC's I have played with generally don't give problems when cold, but Zed Head said is a good point. They need good voltage to work. If the voltage drops off to much they will stop triggering. You should run through the checks in the FSM and make sure all the wiring for the ignition is ok. I would also invest in a gauge to messure the fuel pressure. It could also be suffering leak down through the check valve in the pump of FPR and it taking time to build up pressure again. A gauge can tell you a lot here. Goodluck Chas
  16. -The 240mm clutch won't bolt up to the maxima flywheel. The dowl pins are in the wrong position and the 240 uses 9 bolts to hold it in place. -The maxima flywheel is the first generation after the name change from 810. Its the 81 through to june 84 with the L24E. Not the diesel LD28 it has the heavy flywheel. In july 84 they changed to the V6 front wheel drive. Goodluck searching for one. They are getting hard to find. -If you ask for a ZX turbo or a 2+2 it should be the 240mm. One other issue to consider if you choice the 240mm clutch is the throw out bearing collar. The 240z and 260z will not work with this pressure plate. I have the measurements somewhere. Ill dig them up tonight and post what I have. Chas
  17. If you go with the 10lb Fidanza flywheel and you are still worried about the oem slipping you could use the 240mm from the 2+2. The pressure plate is about 4lbs heavier which means a totoal weight gain odf about 9lbs over the original and 2lbs over the Maxima flywheel, but you get a lot more grip and standard pedal feel. The Fidanza is drilled for both 225 and 240 setups. Im using a 240mm oem clutch and lightened flywheel. Its not as light as the Fidanza, but the grip is excellent. If I get around to doing the 71C tranny I will most probably go with the Fidenza flywheel. Just another option to think about. Chas
  18. If you are looking for a flywheel. Check the weight or get the seller the check it for you. The Maxima used a +/-18lbs, the Zeds all used 23lbs and the trucks used a 29lbs flywheel. They all look the same, but you will notice the difference straight away when you test drive it. Goodluck looking for a Maxima flywheel. They are getting very hard to find these days. Chas
  19. I did mine with a HEI module in the TIU housing and a Petronix Flame thrower II (0.6 ohm) coil. Working perfect since day one. Very happy with it. You sure you wired it correctly? If its under the hood, did you disconnect the plug at the TIU? It could be messing with the HEI module. I have a thread on the mod here. If you need more detailed photos, let me know. Chas
  20. Hey Len, Thanks for the progress update. Your not the only one suffering from too many things to do and not enough time to do them: Chas
  21. Ooeps:tapemouth. Hey Jim, at least someone is reading my postsLOL Chas
  22. Thats good news. Maybe an oil change will improve 2nd untill you are ready for a 5speed. Chas
  23. I just found the thread (Fenril) on HybridZ. The gland nut is for the VW so it needs to be modified to fit the Zed. Need Help to fit Bilstein P30-0032 on my 280z... - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis - HybridZ If you google biltstein P30-0032 or the new number 24-184530 you will find them. Chas
  24. If you want Bilsteins, I think the ones you want are P30-0032. I know of one person over here that used them a few years back and Im pretty sure that was the type he used. I have read somewhere that you also need to machine the gland nut that comes with them to get it to fit the strut. As for springs. To get the original ride height a lot of Zed owners go for the 80-85 corvette springs and cut them to suit. They are close to aftermarket springs in stiffness. If you go with aftermarket springs, they all seem to drop the ride height at least an inch. You can compensate this on rear of a 240 or 260Z by changing other to the 280Z strut insulator. It will increase ride height by about 25mm (1") and bring it back to original. Here is a thread on Hardways atempts at getting his ride height back to roiginal height with corvette springs. Even if you don't want to go this route, it wouldn't hurt to read through it and maybe get a though pointers along the way. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/48249-using-chevette-springs-re-gain-original-ride-height.html Chas
  25. Here is a good read on doing your own repair. If it doesn't work you can always go with the cap or the $1800 exchange http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/23919-dash-repair-process-pictures.html Chas
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