EuroDat

I think Ill sit on the fence and watch you guys fight over this "bargin". I like the 30 day warranty. It would be out of warranty before it got here. And the taxes here bump the price up so much. If I ever need an engine (not looking forward to that) Ill try to shop locally first. Pity so many shoddy dealers are out there. Makes it harder for the guys trying to do it right and to pick the guy from bad.

Which shipping method did you use? Seems very fast compared to mine. I used standard air, but Im not in any hurry. Can't drive the car till the end of the month anyway. "Dutch law"It will be interesting to hear how they compare with the ones from black dragon. chas

I not an expert, but your excess ride height looks like its a result of changing to 240Z bumpers. Losing that extra weight could be the cause of the height problem. It lifted mine about an inch. If you want to remove 3 inches of gap then a half coil won't come close. You are going to have to remove more. If the height is caused by the bumpers, lowered springs for a 240Z should correct this and then some. Maybe even a set of standard 240z springs will correct this to an acceptable degree. Remember one important side effect when cutting springs: You are shortening a long length of spring steel that happens to be wound into a coil. Shortening it will reduce its ability to flex and harshen the ride. Some people want it, some don't and complain about how hard the ride has become. I lowered another car by lowering the coil perch on the struts. That way I could maintain the spring rate. Thinking about doing it to a spare set of front struts I have for the 280Z and using 240Z insulators for the back. Chas.

I find that quite reasonable, but then Im use to buying a stuff like of fuse covers for $12 and then $59 for shipping.Im still waiting for the pigeon to get here. 18 days and still counting. Chas PS: Just received email with tracking number. The seals are on their way to soul airport☺

Thnaks for the encouragement guys. Ill get back to work on it. Captain: It was Wayne's great work on the 1977 280Z wiring diagram that got me started on this. Ajmcforester; Ill keep that in mind. I have a collegue that is colour blind. I didn't even know he was colour blind the first 1-1/2 years until he asked about a PID drawing that used different colours to identify different process. Havn't given much thought about highlight lines by clicking on them. Ill look into that in Adobe and see what is possible with the side menu and testing in Preflight. If you click on a circuit it highlights in the drawing. First the drawing complete and accurate. The diagram is now just a quick export to PDF. The end result will be a lot better with borders, title block and colour key etc. Anything you guys see that needs correcting, let me know. Like I said, I don't have a 240Z to do field checks so the accuracy will depend on your input as well. Chas

Yes we do and we also recycle. Im now the proud owner of four garbage bins. Paper/Carton bin, Plastic bin, Garden/Fruit/Vegitable bin and the normal bin. The normal bin is weighed and we pay per kilo. That is the local councils way to encourage recycling.... Im still trying to get my mind around how you came up with tooth paste tubes. Ice cream containers for nuts and bolts. Now that I can understand, but tooth paste tubes???? Im a little with Zed Head on this one. Lets not talk about. Oh crap thats exactly what Im doing and Im post number 13.... Thanks to carnival. (google: carnival in the netherlands) I think Ill go back to watching TV and in the commercail breaks working on my color wiring diagram. Chas

Tomo, You really need another hobby. Too much time on your hands.

This is something I started a year ago when a friend had problems with his electrical system on a 240Z. It was late 1970 version and we couldn't find any clear color wiring diagrams. There are color diagrams, but mostly traced over original scans and not very clear when printed. The problem in the car is since solved, so now this has falling into the background. It is in AutoCAD 2013 and exported to PDF. Im wondering if there is enough interest. If so I will finish it. I will need input since my Zed is a 280Z. Here it is so far. Please note "work in progress" Chas ColorWiring240Z1971_Concept 15-feb-2015.pdf

Hi AlanH, I take it you are at step 13 in the FSM photo and the photo of the main shaft and adapter plate.? I had a similar challenge. The FSM just says "Remove", but how??? It wasn't being very friendly to me either. I ended up using a home made bearing puller to get it off. The el-cheapo bearing puller set I had would not fit, not long enough. It did need some effort to get it to release, but after that it came off easily. The above photo was just after it released and I removed the bearing puller. Heating it with a heat gun (not a gas torch) can make it easier. Thats my experience on the B and C transmissions. I mention don't use a torch because it can overheat and distort the gear making it unusable. Chas PS: If your bush looks anything like the one it the photo, you will need a new one. That dull finish will cause whining in 5th gear. I replaced it.

Am I seeing that right? Thefirst photo looks lokes its lime green, not 112 yellow. Looking forward to seeing the episode.

Nice find. Plenty of history. I liked the group C. At least they resembled something you could actually buy from the dealer. Didn't know Nissan ranthe 240k in group C or was it a privateer? I remeber back in the early 80's Nissan bought out a limited edition Bluebird with the striping from George Furys group C car. The Striping was the ONLY thing the same. The 1.8 turbo Z18 was not available and engine was completly untouched standard. Wheels magazijn quoted " If a car should wear stripes, it shouls earn them" Chas

Yes. It should work. Its an aftermarket replacement for the 4-pin HEI module, but just looks a little different. The photo in the link shows 5 wires coming out of it. Its has a dedicated ground wire where the original style uses the mounting bolt for ground. I can't see any dimensions for it. Wonder if it will fit in the TIU box? It will work hotter dan the standard version. Pertronix make a similar version called the Flame Thrower II http://pertronix.shptron.com/p/hei-performance-module-4-pin Chas

I made a schematic from the black and white schematic on atlanticz (and Thanks to Wayne (wal280z) for the effort). It was a little hard to follow with my laptop screen so it might have some mistakes in colours etc. This is the two standard versions (FED en CAL) with no modifications. I prefer to keep it as original as possible, so I would modify the internals of the TIU, keeping all the original wiring in place. Feel free to comment and suggest any corrections. Chas TIC280Z1976_REV1.pdf

If you want I can make a schematic drawing of the 280Z 76 ignition system with HEI or ZX TIU. Others might also find it handy? Chas

The msd blaster 2 (8202) with a ballist resistor will work fine. It has 0.7ohm which is about what the original GM units had. Thats if you go the GM module route. They say if you go to 1.5 ohm this module will loose its current limitjng ability because the resistance in the coil is too high. I have read threads about high rev problems and rdv limiting. The high ohm coil could be a factor causing this problem. I have not had any problems yet and the engine revs smoothly to 6000rpm. Chas

Hi Blue Streak, Im not sure what you intend to do with the 280ZX dizzy. Is the system complete or are you only using the dizzy for the pick-up and another TIU? I did a GM HEI mod to my 280Z 77. The TIU was playing up when it was warm. See link in post#11. I have changed my coil since then. Its now a petronix 45011 (45000volt 0.6Ohm) so the ballist resistor is back in the circuit (plate removed). It depends on which coil you are using if you need a ballist resistor or not. Here is a diagram on a 1978 which has not ballist resistor. If you need a diagram of a circuit I can make one np. GM_HEI_Mod_Rev2.pdf

The twee side stripes 76911-N3000 and the top stripe 76910-N3000. MSA sell them in a one piece form: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a10/34-11422 Or twee http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a10/34-1143 and one top section http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a10/34-1142 I have never used them, but I hear that the three piece from MSA fit ok. Because the outer seal is a "soft" seal it is more tolerant to manufacturing tolerances Ths inner seal does the actual sealing and if the seal too big it causes all the problems with door slaming. You mention its leaking badly. If its leaking into the car then the inner seal need checking too. Chas

You are getting to be an expert at removing datsun heads for all the wrong reasons. Its sad this job is not working with you. Respect that you remain calm amungst it all. Small marks on a piston crown should not be a problem for a street car. This looks like it took a couple of hard hits and the effects could be more than just piston crown damage. It might have compressed the top ring groove and the groove is now too tight on the top ring. I would add the piston to my list of parts. I don't think I would feel confident driving with it. Chas

Now it make sense anyway. The numbers line up for that period, it would be exceptional if the po found a replacement from the same month. Strange that he removed the plate. I would get a new plate from Banzai, just follow one of the links we posted and you can use the screws from the parts car to attach it. Chas

It could be. Maybe something like I mentioned, the automatic kickdown power wire Is blue and not used on manuals. Im not up on the 240Z wiring.I can't figure out why he would have spliced it onto the flasher circuit?

The blue wire could also be the power wire going to the kickdown switch for automatics. Was the car fitted with some sort of car alarm and its now been removed.

Hi. You could say which model it is, would help a bit. Going from my 280Z. The blue/red wire is for illumination. It may be the one used for the automatic indicator light on the console and the PO was using it to light something when the dash light is illuminated. Its not used in manuals. The green to the flasher should have power until the hazard switch swithes it over to the hazard flasher unit. Looks like the PO used some sort of scotch lock to splice into it to connect it to the blue wire. Why??? and what the blue wire does. Not sure, Im trying to work out where on the harness it is. Chas

Your engine number is in the region of 9/70. It could still be the original engine. Your parts car doesn't make sense to me, maybe someone else can explain it. Are you sure its from 9/71. It should be around HLS30-45... and not HLS30-09... The engine 12921 is also "around" the 9/70 period. Chas

I don't keep track of what I spent on my Z. If I did I probably would'nt have bought it in the first place. Yer yer I know it a 280Z and not worth much anyway, but its still fun to play with . My 2 cents Chas

I took the plunge an placed an order through KorASP. I want to replace the rear hatch seal and the local KIA dealer (also my Nissan dealer) couldn't get it cheaper the €82. Even with shipping, import duties and taxes Ill only pay about €45. Ill post photos of what arrives in next weeks (delivery: more than 10 days). I think by "small air" they mean post dove. Chas