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grannyknot

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Posts posted by grannyknot

  1. 4 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

    @JTO i think you are on the money about creating a little bit of space between the diff and the snubber. I noticed less noise in the cabin. Details are in this thread.

     

     

    3 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

    I have a 1/8" air gap in mine and while it's a race car with lots of noises, gear whine isn't one of them.

    My diff is squished between the mount and the upper snubber so I think I will give this gap a try and see if that improves the amount of noise.

    Thanks

  2. Wait minute, that's a custom oil pan.  Previous advice may not work considering the pan isn't stock so might not have the same clearance for dropping, also your oil pick up was probably lengthened to reach the farther down into the pan, that probably won't affect the removal but might on installation.  Sorry, that probably doesn't help very much. :unsure:

  3. 8 hours ago, gotham22 said:

    Can anyone help with question 2 and 3 in the previous post

    There are a few connectors in the wiring harnesses that I have seen that don't seem serve a purpose and nothing plugs into them.  I can only assume that it was easier make up the wiring harnesses so they would work in many parts of the world although not all of the wiring was needed in every jurisdiction.

  4. 8 hours ago, Patcon said:

    Are you using the same product on both pads or a cutting compound and a polishing compound?

    The Menzerna for both steps, apparently the abrasive particles breakdown in a very uniform way so by the time you're finished an application the particles are polishing. The final step I'll use a dedicated small wool pad and swirl remover/polish before the wax. 

    • Like 1
  5. I decided to start with 1500 grit just to see if I could save some effort and fortunately it worked, the 1500 removed the dust particles and orange peel, then down to 2000. I've used Meguiars Pro Speed Compound in the past and had good results but I heard about Menzerna's Heavy Cut Compound so thought I would give it a try. Well it's the cats arse, it cut through the 2000 scratches easily and some of the 1500 scratches that I missed, it cuts very quickly, I have one side of the car done, about 90% polished out and I think I will leave it there until most of the car is reassembled, without a doubt there will be bumps, chips and scratches to repair by the time it's all back together.

    In the first pic the panel to the left has been polished out with the Menzena's, the rest of the panel to the right still has the 2000 grit surface.

     

    IMG_1077.JPG

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    • Like 3
  6. 9 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

    I'm going to be replacing my oil pan gasket and in reading up on it, I found a set of instructions that said: Knock pan loose with rubber mallet. Then loosen the two 12mm bolts on the oil pickup

    So, do I drop the oil pan a few mm's and reach in with a 12mm wrench and loosen two bolts? Is that so I have some wiggle room to get the pan off?   

     

    Yes,  it's not too bad of a job to get the pan off after the oil pump pick up has dropped into the pan, the problem comes when you have to reinstall the pick up, not a lot of room to get your hands in there and start the two  12mm bolts.  As I remember I had to bring the engine hoist in from the side and lift the engine 3-4", disconnect the engine mounts to get enough clearance. 

    • Like 1
  7. 6 hours ago, AK260 said:

    I haven’t made a permanent fix for it yet, but I found that adding a bit of rubber between the diff mount insulator’s top and bottom parts makes it stop! I will probably modify a compression rod bush for this duty as they too are designed to take a lot of squashing!!

    Any chance you post a pic of that setup? At this point I'll try anything.

    Thanks

  8. 1 hour ago, madkaw said:

    I still get a thud unloading the drivetrain at low rpms in a higher gear . I still dance with the clutch to avoid the thud and I have the sandwich set up . Sometimes I think my r-180 moustache bar is not up to the task of 230 ft pounds and posi tract rear . I’ve about given up trying to figure it out what the noise is . 
    I can drive my car hard and never hear a thud , but under certain circumstances i get a distinct thud . 
    If I cruise around 40 mph in 4th gear and keep the throttle steady and push the clutch pedal in and out , it will thud every time letting the clutch out . That’s releasing the clutch swiftly . Granted - I don’t drive that way - but wonder where all that movement is 

    Same here, R/T mount with a poly snubber cut so it is just snug against the top of the R200 LSD diff, OEM rubber mount underneath, poly bushings in the R200 mustache bar, 83/ZXT  CV halfshafts and still get the dreaded clunk when I engage the clutch to shift to the next gear. It really bugs me but I don't know what to try next, I'm contemplating pulling the whole system and going with the Ford super 8.8 rear end from the 2015 Mustang.  There's a guy over on Hybridz that is offering a kit to install the 8.8 at a fraction of the cost of the TTT kit.  https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128217-ford-super-88-irs-swap-thread-rear-brakes-too/

  9. Well you can't go wrong with ZT restored SU's, it might be a good buy to go with the new ones but you would need to find some supporting info and reviews, the website has one photo of the new carbs and that's all I could find, I don't think I could send them a $1,000 based on one pic.

  10. 4 hours ago, Namerow said:

    I'm astonished that you had enough room to stand far enough away from the target body panel to be able to swing the gun.  If I had tried that in those close quarters, I probably would have tripped over the air hose, grabbed the plastic sheeting as I tried to keep my balance, and then dragged it all down onto the freshly-painted panel. LOL

    That's almost happened a few times, you have to stay nimble, know where your hose is at all times and plan out your route like a dance routine and rehearse a few times, not kidding.  While your doing that be aware of how far your nozzle is from the panel, how fast is your arm is moving, are you getting good coverage and make sure you're not over spraying what the compressor can put out and catch up.  I'll take an electrical gremlin or a carb problem any day, at least with those you can walk away and think about the problem, not with painting, you're there until the last coat of clear has been shot.

    Much respect for guys who do it for a living and don't cut corners.

    • Like 4
  11. 48 minutes ago, ETI4K said:

    Is that how the shop was when you shot it?  That's really amazing given all the opportunities for hidden dirt, dust, and spiders to want to get into that paint.  Gives me hope for when I do mine.

    That's the real problem with painting in the same area where you do all the sanding, contamination is everywhere.  If I had more room I would build a painting booth in the garage but as you can see I can't swing a cat in there.  So before I start setting up for paint the gas powered leaf blower comes out and as much as possible gets blown out the door, then multiple stages of wiping down and cleaning and washing.   The last stage involves washing the floor 4-5 times then fresh plastic sheeting  goes up and just before actually starting to paint the floor gets thoroughly soaked with water and still with all that there is lots of dust particles on the clearcoat that need to be sanded out before buffing.

    However, almost all the of the dust particles are soft primer dust so they sand out pretty easily, give me a couple of weeks and I'll post some pics of the final product, hopefully it will be like glass by then.

    • Like 1
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