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Posts posted by 73str86

  1. I'm bringing this thread back from the dead!

    I've been researching hard for DIY vapor blasters and I am gathering components. I've watched hours and hours of videos and am currently searching for a trash pump. 

    Parts sourced so far:

    - "Used once" Harbor Freight 40lb sandblasting cabinet - MSRP $199 - scored for $100 on Facebook Marketplace (I wanted to be able to fit an L6 head inside without any problems.)

    - Brand new, never used Craftsman 80-gallon two-stage air compressor - MSRP $1649 - scored for $700 on Facebook Marketplace  

    - Custom brass vapor blast gun from Armoury Enterprises in New Zealand [3mm aluminum air jet, 8mm ceramic nozzle, 1/2" slurry inlet, 1/2" air inlet] - $70

    Need to buy: 

    - Lighting upgrade (Duffy I like your latest choice)

    - Flexzilla hose (most recommended hose to use by all the builders) / plumbing for air compressor / drier / pedal 

    - Trash pump


    Some findings in my research:

    -  Most youtubers recommend no more than 60psi for vapor blasting aluminum parts. I prefer that clean, polished look. Glass beads #13 Very Fine, not crushed glass. I watched a video where a guy said crushed glass is far more abrasive; he stripped a painted greasy rusty cast iron intake with it.

    - "Secret" I'm going to try: supposedly turning off air supply completely and letting trash pump push the slurry at ~25psi by itself as a final step will provide the greatest lustre. 




    • Like 2
  2. 1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

    I think your to late for those prices.. i paid 200 euro a piece.. years ago..  Yes a flattop can be had for less.. but then. they are a Pain in the "you know where"... to get working right!

    In Europe we have other prices i know ... but if you gave me 1000 euro for a complete 240z (roundtop) carbset with inlet and every right bit on it that i could bolt up to a L24... i would say no thanks..

    The price was just a starting point. USA round top SU values haven't increased much here in the past 10 years. 

    If you look hard enough, dirty complete kits with carbs, intake, and air box can be found for $150-$250 each.

    I once paid $25 for a kit at a swap meet that completely caught on fire. Fuel lines melted all over the aluminum, etc. Great deal!

  3. I'm paying $100 per pair of round top SU cores. 3 screw or 4 screw. Must be complete!

    Paying extra for intakes, linkage, air boxes. Paying extra for early balance tubes. Paying extra for complete kits.

    Do you have a box of miscellaneous SU parts? I'll buy those too.

    I can supply USPS shipping labels.

  4. Hello,

    Long time member here, I've been busy with home renovations.

    I'm looking for singles or batches of OEM Datsun hose clamps. You know, with the round JIS screw heads.

    I'll buy anything from 1-1000 pieces. Rusty and dirty is just fine.

    Paypal ready, located in central Indiana.

    Here's a shot of my very first SU setup that I rebuilt myself. Sadly the 73 was totaled at the end of 2019.


    • Like 1
  5. Wow, I haven't worked on my 240z since October 2020! Sad. I bought another house and will be looking to move before the year is over. I am debating between buying a Summit body dolly/crate to transport the 240z with no suspension/crossmember or just assemble it all and transport. I just bought an 8.5x16 enclosed trailer for the move. Any advice either way?

  6. On 6/9/2020 at 9:13 AM, Jeff Berk said:

    Sorry, but I had to look it up. I'm assuming you meant the first definition and not the last ?:

    Sakura (桜 (kanji), 櫻 (old kanji), さくら (hiragana), サクラ (katakana)) is the Japanese term for ornamental cherry blossom trees and their blossoms.

    Sakura may also refer to:

    • Sakura, raw horse meat, usually prepared as sashimi called basashi

    Yes, cherry blossom is what I was going for lol.

  7. Damn, I haven't worked on my Z since June! 

    I managed to finish sandblasting the crossmember a couple days ago. I need to hurry up and paint it with Master Coat. Starting a new job at the Subaru factory next week so my time will be limited, but looking forward to a work routine and making time for the 240z. 


    • Like 1
  8. If you're looking to spend some cash on a full kit with Japanese stainless fit and finish, I highly recommend the Fujitsubo twin pipe setup from RHDJapan.



    • Like 3
  9. On 6/1/2020 at 6:41 AM, 87mj said:

    I have owned 3 240z cars previously.  All had the later style 4 speed.  I am putting together an early car with the series 1 transmission.  I hear they feel sloppy compared to the later version.  Is that your opinion?  Do you plan to keep the series 1 transmission?

    I am replacing the early 4 speed with a 280z 5 speed. The original early 4 speed was definitely sloppier than any Z car manual transmission I've ever driven. I'd highly recommend the bushing upgrade mentioned above, although I've never seen them for sale anywhere.

  10. A 1-1/8 inch hole saw is a perfect fit to ream out the front control arm bushings. All bushings will be replaced with polyurethane with the exception of the tension control rod bushings. Those will be a combination of rubber and the G-Machine kit from MSA.


  11. 13 hours ago, grannyknot said:

    Your lucky the metal wheel lips were still there under those flares, usually it's all been cut away.  Yes, the exhaust note was beautiful on the dyno.

    I agree. At the time of purchase I wasn't too concerned with the rivet holes. Hopefully the body shop can finish my core work successfully.

  12. The flap wheels exposed the history of the car: the rear quarters were all original, no bondo, just the original paint and black respray. Neither front fender was original...they had red and teal paint under the black. Both had bondo but no rust was found. I think the PO (sadly) added bondo to the wheel lips to help the cheap flares fit better.

  13. Next up was filling the rivet holes made by the PO around the wheel wells. There were 27 holes total. I sanded the areas to bare metal with an 80 grit flap wheel. A local mobile welder filled the holes with his tig welder and sanded them smooth. All in all I am happy about my decision to save the wheel wells. I painted the wheel lips with 3 coats of grey primer and 2 coats of Rustoleum satin black. Some paint around the welded areas blistered, but I'm not too worried about that because the car is going to a paint shop this summer for an original color 901 silver respray.





  14. 3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

    That's pretty high up there in RPM.  Curious about the hp/tq?  Usually they're reported separately.  Which is which?  And where/when?  The curves would be nice to see.

    This dyno sheet is from 2018 at RPM Performance in Colorado Springs, CO. I edited the numbers. The cam was a lot weaker than I expected. Also my Mikunis and timing are dialed in much further than my previous setup. 


  15. 3 hours ago, Geoff's 240z said:

    Wow, you work quick! ?

    Love the wheel choice for the look you're going for. Tell us about the engine build plans. 

    The engine is from my wrecked 1973 with approximately 4000 miles on it. Bored 10.0:1 F54 L28, polished crank, $1100 port job on the E88 head, oversize stainless steel valves, Schneider "Stage 3" cam kit with "10k rpm springs." Paired with SUs, Clifford Research 6-2 header, and 2.5" exhaust, the engine dynoed at 129 rwhp/ 140 rwtq at 6000 ft altitude which translates to about 160 hp/tq at sea level. My timing was off and the shop wouldn't let me make any adjustments. The SUs ran out of air at 6300rpms at elevation.

    Now I'm rocking Datsun Competition Mikuni 44s and a Fujitsubo stainless 48mm primary 6-2 header and twin 60mm pipe exhaust.

    Next on the performance block will be a one-off cam from Steve Bonk originally ground for the new John Morton car. He wouldn't tell me the specs until I paid! Great guy.

    Here's a photo of the motor in my 73.



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