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Posts posted by 73str86

  1. On 6/9/2020 at 9:13 AM, Jeff Berk said:

    Sorry, but I had to look it up. I'm assuming you meant the first definition and not the last ?:

    Sakura (桜 (kanji), 櫻 (old kanji), さくら (hiragana), サクラ (katakana)) is the Japanese term for ornamental cherry blossom trees and their blossoms.

    Sakura may also refer to:

    • Sakura, raw horse meat, usually prepared as sashimi called basashi

    Yes, cherry blossom is what I was going for lol.

  2. Damn, I haven't worked on my Z since June! 

    I managed to finish sandblasting the crossmember a couple days ago. I need to hurry up and paint it with Master Coat. Starting a new job at the Subaru factory next week so my time will be limited, but looking forward to a work routine and making time for the 240z. 


    • Like 1

  3. On 6/1/2020 at 6:41 AM, 87mj said:

    I have owned 3 240z cars previously.  All had the later style 4 speed.  I am putting together an early car with the series 1 transmission.  I hear they feel sloppy compared to the later version.  Is that your opinion?  Do you plan to keep the series 1 transmission?

    I am replacing the early 4 speed with a 280z 5 speed. The original early 4 speed was definitely sloppier than any Z car manual transmission I've ever driven. I'd highly recommend the bushing upgrade mentioned above, although I've never seen them for sale anywhere.

  4. 13 hours ago, grannyknot said:

    Your lucky the metal wheel lips were still there under those flares, usually it's all been cut away.  Yes, the exhaust note was beautiful on the dyno.

    I agree. At the time of purchase I wasn't too concerned with the rivet holes. Hopefully the body shop can finish my core work successfully.

  5. The flap wheels exposed the history of the car: the rear quarters were all original, no bondo, just the original paint and black respray. Neither front fender was original...they had red and teal paint under the black. Both had bondo but no rust was found. I think the PO (sadly) added bondo to the wheel lips to help the cheap flares fit better.

  6. Next up was filling the rivet holes made by the PO around the wheel wells. There were 27 holes total. I sanded the areas to bare metal with an 80 grit flap wheel. A local mobile welder filled the holes with his tig welder and sanded them smooth. All in all I am happy about my decision to save the wheel wells. I painted the wheel lips with 3 coats of grey primer and 2 coats of Rustoleum satin black. Some paint around the welded areas blistered, but I'm not too worried about that because the car is going to a paint shop this summer for an original color 901 silver respray.





  7. 3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

    That's pretty high up there in RPM.  Curious about the hp/tq?  Usually they're reported separately.  Which is which?  And where/when?  The curves would be nice to see.

    This dyno sheet is from 2018 at RPM Performance in Colorado Springs, CO. I edited the numbers. The cam was a lot weaker than I expected. Also my Mikunis and timing are dialed in much further than my previous setup. 


  8. 3 hours ago, Geoff's 240z said:

    Wow, you work quick! ?

    Love the wheel choice for the look you're going for. Tell us about the engine build plans. 

    The engine is from my wrecked 1973 with approximately 4000 miles on it. Bored 10.0:1 F54 L28, polished crank, $1100 port job on the E88 head, oversize stainless steel valves, Schneider "Stage 3" cam kit with "10k rpm springs." Paired with SUs, Clifford Research 6-2 header, and 2.5" exhaust, the engine dynoed at 129 rwhp/ 140 rwtq at 6000 ft altitude which translates to about 160 hp/tq at sea level. My timing was off and the shop wouldn't let me make any adjustments. The SUs ran out of air at 6300rpms at elevation.

    Now I'm rocking Datsun Competition Mikuni 44s and a Fujitsubo stainless 48mm primary 6-2 header and twin 60mm pipe exhaust.

    Next on the performance block will be a one-off cam from Steve Bonk originally ground for the new John Morton car. He wouldn't tell me the specs until I paid! Great guy.

    Here's a photo of the motor in my 73.



  9. Nowadays I am prepping the suspension components and engine bay. I'm sandblasting the suspension components and they will be painted with Master Series products: Mastercoat and the AG111 Top Coat.

    I also hired a mobile welder to weld in sway bar reinforcement plates. He did a great job.



  10. The car was undercoated in the past and it preserved the undercarriage fairly well. Here you can see the original silver paint. The steering rack was much easier to remove than I thought.

    Sway bars will be replaced with ST front and rear, 25mm/19mm with Energy poly bushings and NOS NISMO poly endlink bushings.




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