siteunseen

10 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

There’s some nice threads on this forum that talk about alternative hoses that you can get from any auto parts store. The stupid expensive one does some a 180* turn, I just used some metal 90* elbows in its place.

I’d give you more threads but I gotta get back to yard work. 😞 

 

Same with me. I bought all the fuel hose from O]Reilly's and did the 180 with two 90 degree brass PEX fittings. Cost about $50.

I wonder if it's possible to flip it over and use the other side? It may be fresh and useable?

2 hours ago, MM569457 said:

Ok I’ll keep that in mind. May need a new flywheel. 

This one is a used aluminum flywheel. It does have a replaceable friction plate.. I’ll need to see where I can find one.

That looks like you could have it resurfaced? My machinest measured the depth around the friction disc's screw holes and said there was enough for a light cut. Hopefully your's is too. Well maybe you could just get some shorter screws.

Looks pretty shallow on some???

Check to make sure the motor mounts seat down correctly. There's some that don't let the peg line up and drop down into the hole.

I used a rope and a wooden handle to fit up the gear shift hole to help pull the transmission up from inside the car. When I got it up where I wanted it I tied the handle down onto the tunnel inside the cabin to hold it in place. This picture may help...

She paints iconic cars with their people. James Dean, Janis Joplin, Paul Leonard Newman etc.

4 hours ago, Racer X said:

Odd.

That doesn't look like Paul Loquesto Newman.

That's Edgar Winter.

7 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

I think we had those F54's to.. but i never opened one up to see if it had flattops in it.. is it that why the later ones had a bit more horsepower?

Yes sir it is. The ZXs weighed a good bit more with all the added creature comforts for the female market they hadn't broken into yet, or so I've read.

20 hours ago, w3wilkes said:

With Dallas being fairly close to sea level the boiling point of water is right about 212*F. Based on that you've got about 15*F to play with if you ran straight water. Then mix that with antifreeze which has a boiling point of around 387*F a 50/50 mixture would have a boiling point around 223*F so you would have almost 30*F to play with before you boil. You will have a little more room due to the cooling system being pressurized which will raise the boiling point temp even more. One other little thing is that water typically is the best at heat transfer where the 50/50 water / antifreeze may not be quite as good at transferring heat from the engine. This is kind of just off the top of my head. I'd bet @Captain Obvious or @siteunseen would be able to provide more and probably better enlightenment!

My thought is you should be okay at 195*F and I'm sure as soon as you start moving it will come down.

Mine stays at 173F idiling in it's garage. Good flow at the radiator hole on top when I rev it up. No wind flow other than the stock fan with a full shroud off a ZX pulling air through the radiator.

Water boils at 225F way up here in North Alabama where I live and I run 75>25 coolant and distilled water I collect from a dehumidifier running downstairs where the Zs are.

195F doesn't seem that high to me but I've always heard 200 to 225F is not good. Maybe do an IR temp check at the bottom radiator hose where it connects to the radiator and then get a reading at the thermostat housing to what kind of job the radiator's doing. Do the same where the in and out are on the block. That way you'd know if it's the radiator or the block I would think.

My Dad used this stuff a couple of times so I guess it worked for him anyway in old El Caminos? Says not to use in aluminum radiators though.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80030-Heavy-Radiator-Cleaner/dp/B000HBGHPY?th=1

Is it grounded good, nice and shiny on the bolt that holds the bellhousing to the block?

New info. You may have some kind of air in the system if it started with the new rad?

I'd let it run, idling, until you see flow under the cap. Rev it up pretty high and let it burp. Then top it off.

Goodluck!

I've had to use an air compressor to clean my radiator in the beginning of grass cutting season down here. The lazy guys blow the mess into the streets and it gets in my air filter and radiator 

Spray bar or self oiling cam?

Odd circumstances. If DSI did the head I can only think it's a leak. Metal expands when it gets hotter, right?

Head scratcher!

Is the small wire on the solenoid on good and tight? Simple minded me thinks it's the starter. But the smarter guys know about all the safety switches and all that crap.

Is it the original starter as far as you know, I guess it would be a Hitachi? or reman? I've bought some junk alternators and starters from Advance, sold as good but noooooo.

Sounds too fast to be an exhaust leak, it kinda keeps up with the valve train???

Have you tried the hose listening trick yet, poor mans stethoscope?

I lnow nothing about plungers but you can jump those two post and it'll arch and scare you but it should crank. If it fires up you should take the stater to a local chain and have it tested. Once again PLEASE be careful! That's some major shade tree I watched my Dad do since I was a kid.

I posted this for a minute then deleted it because it's a work around fix that won't give you answer but will get you home so take it as an emergency fix. It scare the crap out of me when I do it but I have a long screwdriver that has so many arch burns on it I could use it to sharpen a chainsaw. 😁

You can turn the key to ON and jump the solenoid by making contact with the 2 threaded bolts with a screwdriver. It'll spark and scare the hell out of you but I've done it many times. Kind of of an emergency fix but it eliminates bad starters/ solenoids too. Leave the small wire on, thats the ignition switch wire.

Like I said it's gonna arch but it bypasses the solenoid and if it cranks you have a bad starter. Please be careful with the 12V. Don't hit anything else and make sure it's in PARK.

I followed this to put an E12-80 in my '77 then again on my '72. The wiring diagrams are different though for a 240. They are at the bottom of the page.

https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

4 hours ago, Zedyone_kenobi said:

See my memory is getting horrible. 

I have to use my memory to get to the bathroom at night, I can't hardly see. 

Is your advace hose hooked to the front carb? 

I run 93 pump gas with a ZX distributor and full advace on my '72 2.4. If I remember right it's 17 and 34 at 3,000 rpm.

On my 280, if I remember right it's been some years, when I replaced all the connectors the raised up little channel runs on the bottom of the component. I.E the aar, the injectors etc.

Heres some pics of some stuff I had downstairs for reference.