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Those seals should have a couple of straw like condoms in the bag. put the curled end on the vale tips. Oil them up like SB says. Push the valves through. Reuse the condoms on half then go with a new one for the other six. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE SPRING SEATS ON FIRST I learned that that hard way.

It's taken me some time to get used to the "extra" but I completely understand Mike's reasoning. I see at as a way to help a whole other generation of members. And they need help for damn sure. I enjoy trying to help out when I can. I've made it through the guy from Panama! That was/is an exercise in building patience. Something I've never had so it's helped me as much as him just in a different way.

Try unplugging the cold start vale. It could be fouled up somehow and continues adding fuel after the motor warms up. Too much fuel would cause backfire through the tailpipe. Some people don't have them at all, they go bad and the car will run without it so they just unhook them.

I should have used A B Normal with this avatar. That's my reality.

We have gained a lot of new and younger members since Mike gave the site a face lift. It took me a minute to get used to it but it works like a magnet. Way to go Mike!

I bet that sounded like a train on loose tracks! Clackity, clackity clack. Maybe the locking nuts were loose for a loooong time?

Blazing Saddles!!! "The sheriff is BONG What did he say? The sheriff is near No dad blame it...the sheriff is BONG"

Take a look at the rubber on the pedals. They'll give you an idea of milage. Welcome aboard and a hardy handshake to you.

That's what I'm trying to say without making anybody mad or sounding like a know-it-all. If he cut the cones off and maybe tapped the suction chamber with a rubber hammer until everything was smooth then tightened the screws? We'll see soon enough, can't have too many Z parts.

Maybe the body screw holes are cross threaded? Maybe the screws are wrong? Seems like there would be scratches if something needed replacing?

I had my spares down today and was going to post some pics! I'll do it in the a.m. Mine are 3 screws with the nubbies on the front 2 screws. The rear screw has nothing. The way the nubbies are positioned, one side is above the screw hole and the other side it's below. The suction chamber can only go on one way. If you slightly tighten the screws, get the piston dropping smoothly then tighten them down it's super simple. The nozzles have to have their angled "leg" pointing to the float chamber and that's it. I won't disagree with you but the nubbies are no big deal on the 3 screws I have. They're all crumbly anyway. I'm too comfortable to go downstairs at the moment but will in the morning for pictures. I can't understand why his are fine without screws but bind with screws? I'm too frugal to buy new parts but everybody's not like me and you. Goodnight Sir.

Welcome to classiczcars.com! The archives are great. Stay in school as long as you can stand it. 8^)

Hopefully the new distributor will work the tach? That's the same diagram I followed and mine works fine. I think the only difference would be the plug I cut off a junkyard zx when I got the different mount you have to use.

It confuses me still but somehow it works out? Here's some stuff off Blue's Tech Tips that may help. There's electrical and mechanical. I do the mechanical line up first then put a light on the pulley and adjust to at least 10 degrees, mine runs better between 12 and 15. Something that'll really help is to mark all the notches with white-out or some kind of paint. Another thing, those remanufactured distributors are bare bones, no cap or button and the ZX's are bigger plus you should regap the plugs to ZX specs, can't remember off the top of my head, .46???? Mechanical, initial set up, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html When you get all that done, crank it up and turn the distributor until the pulley mark lines up with the 10 when the light flashes. If you have the 240 pulley, the one to the far left looking from the front is 0, next is 5, third one is 10 etc. Those are the ones that need paint. It's confusing! I'm not a good explainer either, sorry. My Dad never uses a light, he turns the distributor until the valve train is the smoothest sounding then backs up a tad. But he's a Chevy man.

To me that's a great analogy of children. They can be a pain but you stick with them, at least that what my parents always told me. I'll stick with dogs, they're a little less expensive.

Reading all those adjectives I had to look! Beautiful motor you have there.

Whatever you decide to do, you should fill that injector hole with something. Drilling the top hole and gravity and all that kinda stuff, you know, Murphy's Law.

I honestly don't know, I watched the DVD a couple of times then rebuilt the two carbs. They were original to the car and it had been sitting for 10 years. During the rebuilding I found the nozzles weren't dropping down and the float chambers were crudded up, the float valves were sticking too. Now they're nice and shiny and work like new (I'm guessing-I was 3 years old when they were new).

Mine have or had rubber nipples to align the dome to the body. I broke them off after watching the DVD. Steve says to loosely tighten the screws and find the smoothest spot then tighten them down. Ignoring those things. He says most are gone anyway if they've been apart.

I hope he won the Arkansas Lotto! You know how much I enjoy the cold dogs. I'll have to read up on Branson's gathering. I haven't heard about that one yet.

Good deal! That's why I was suggesting other ways. Now you can get a car cover. Don't give up on the '77, I love mine and I think, from reading on here for five years, there's more information on a '77 than any other 280. Just a coincidence I suppose. Here's mine without the Rewinds. Just like high school.

I'm jealous! No more ticking, problem solved, that's all that matters.

Is the hole just wollard out and the screw won't get a grip? If that's the case you should be able to find some kind of screw that would get a hold and tighten down. Those intakes are soft aluminum. A small lag screw? something just to get by so you can move on to bigger things. Nobody will know but you.

I watched this episode of Gilligan's Island the other day and started laughing thinking about Al's "engine builder", if he actually has one.

For inside "dust covers" I use the large size ones from Advance Auto, $25. I parked my 280 outside last summer. Bought a $100 dollar breathable one this time. Now the 280 is inside with rusty bits and pieces and my newer Camry is outside, the cover has shredded already. I've read good things about these covers and they do ask for the particular car, not size 1, 2 or 3. If I decide to buy another cover I'm calling these guys to ask about mirror pockets and custom fitting. My .02 cents. http://www.beverlyhillsautocovers.com/car-covers.html?find=1977-nissan-280z-base-4223363