siteunseen

And where I come from a 6 in the bed is worth 4 tens at the bar.

Tap it in with a rubber hammer.

Or! you can take the depth slider on a micrometer and stick it #1 cylinder. Get the highest mark of the piston top. I've done it both ways with the head on trying to get my timing right when I first bought the car and switched to a zx dizzy. Ended up dropping the oil pump then pulling the motor which is still on an engine stand after a year. Brahahahaha! Skin comes off a cat many ways. 8^)

I measured the bottom of the pivot end of the #1 & #2 rockers from the head. When they were equal to each other it was my tdc. Using a micrometer. FWIW.

Okay, now you've lost me. How do you line up the crank and the cam without using the bright links and the dimples on the crank drive gear and the cam sprocket? When I install the chain's bright links onto those dimple marks the key slot is straight up and down.

Thanks guys, that makes perfect sense. That's why I didn't think about it, too simple! I have removed the front one from my 280 after installed. Another panicked brain fart from a gassy guy!

Looks good to me! I messed up my headgasket where the cover goes under it. Too many beers, I's pissed when I put it back on. Good luck with yours.

I know this is common knowledge to builders but I just figured it out. The key in the crank nose and the dowel on the front of the cam should be straight up. You can remove the pulley and the valve cover to check that. I made the mistake of pulling my front cover for no reason just because the shiny links on the timing chain weren't lining up with the dimples like they did when I set it up. Zed Head set me straight on that, thank you Zed! They only line up every so often.

I need some ideas please! I started fitting the header and rear slinger on and realized I do not have enough threads for my crimp nut to work. Went to Nissan then Fastenal, no luck. The guy at Fastenal suggested buying a M10-1.75 bolt that was long enough, hacksaw the head off and use it as a manifold stud. He didn't have one in stock. I'm using the M10 because that rear hole was wollard out and what I have is the longest Nissan has in that size, it's for their Titan 8 cylinder pickup. Tomorrow I'm gonna hit the hardware stores and try and find one in stainless steel. It needs to be about 2&1/2 inches long to bottom out in the head then attach the header and the engine slinger. Do y'all think that's a good idea or should I find an alternative way of lifting the back end of the motor & transmission combo? Thanks for any advice. Here's what I have now;

I just thought of something! I can put them on the sides of my grinding wheel, they're nice and flat and not too aggressive, then the flat file. Thank you so much! I needed that little push.

That's what they sent me too! Did you just run them over a flat file until you got them down enough? Thanks for any advice.

I've thought about that stuff but I think it's too thin for the float lids. The cork is "cushiony". I think a synthetic material like some oil pan gaskets are made from now, MSA performance gasket, would work. It's thicker and has a light torque, like the float lids do. If the http://www.240zrubberparts.com/ guy, Nick I think, could come up with something? You can still get those gaskets from Nissan, but the kit has all the other stuff with it and it's about $15. Ztherapy probably sales just the cork and I think RTV sticking them on is a great idea. I've read about that before in a post that somebody that raced had written, John Coffey maybe? If your's aren't torn, put them in a book like Mark said, then RTV to the rescue! I know I will when I take them off again, which I hope I never have to but we know that ain't happening.

Congratulations! Smiles for miles.

This guy has a plugged PCV on a motor he's running. I think this link will take you to the 2nd page where he discovers it, then you'll have to read what he did??? You could send him a PM. Cool car and welcome to the club.

Most chain parts stores have a section of small stuff sometimes they call it a "HELP ME" section. I always go to Advance Auto or O'reilly's. They have them for sure but you might call around before going. If you're gonna use the bushings in your shifter, you need to take it with you and check the size because I'm not sure of the part number that I ended up using. Here you go!! Thanks again Blue! http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html

Yes, welcome to the time machine. I'm a middler I guess, half my stuff is backwards, the other half is forward technology. Getting fuel is when it happens to me the most.

The lid, from what I read. I haven't done it myself yet, but the next time I will for sure. Seems like someone would've made a better gasket by now, these cork ones are pretty much once or twice then replace. I'll try the RTV like Rossi says. If I remember right Permatex makes one for fuel. Yes they do;

Awe what the hell. I was wrong anyway. Markings a "TE". Tilton engineering? "50-026" opposite end. Ga'night Jean P!

I have a Tilton. It has a slight "TL" looking engraving on the front. Just had it resurfaced and my machinist said he could go down to the screw heads holding the disc on. He removed the dowls and resurfaced it with the disc in place. I can put up a picture in the morning but it's my bedtime now, sorry.

I highly reccomend nissan # 14035-E4610 manifold gasket. $15 from my local dealership. Took a couple of days though but fit and finish is fantastic. Here's mine on ported E-31. Felpro is fine but don't stop short now. 8^)

I got a bad valve from Ztherapy once, they source them from someone else I'm sure. The pin was too short to bottom out and seal off. Bruce overnighted me another one, no questions asked. They're top shelf folks in my book!

You can remove the valve and push the pin down and shouldn't be able to blow through it. Does that make sense? Pin up you can blow through. Pin down no blow.

You can take those float valves apart. Remove that small clip ring at the top and pull the pin out. There's a little cone shaped at the end. Mine are grey in color. There's also a spring in there you can stretch out for a stronger closing pressure. Clean the pin and it's seat inside the body of the valve with a can of carb cleaner. Stretch the spring and it should be like new. Or buy new ones.

You can use those Dorman pin bushings for your gear shifter too. I've got them on mine instead of the plastic OE ones. Work great and no more slop. And of course I read it on here first.

Go to a restaurant with "free refills" to get a small straw, an all you can eat Chinese buffet.