siteunseen

see what i did here... EDIT, tres equis guy.

Click your username up top right side corner. drops down to account settings, click that... That will go to this page that shows "signature"... Click that and then go to another page, change your signature and click "SAVE". done

May need to adjust the rear float Oliver.

That looks like soot more than grease to me. Like the black powdery grime off a belt, maybe the a/c and alternator belts? I used Murphy's Oil Soap on mine for the lighter stuff like your picture. It worked good for me FYI. " It is also commonly used to clean black-powder weapons after use, since the lack of petroleum-based oil and the presence of vegetable oil lessens the amount of sludge that is created when cleaning black powder residues from weapons. It has also been found to efficiently remove the residue that builds up on automobile wheels and hubcaps from the disc brakes." Wikipedia info https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murphy_Oil_Soap

Personally I used that purple/red looking Lucas tacky right out of my grease gun. Then even out with my finger. Ran it in and out numerous times to get rid of any surplus. No leaks, no problems thus far (about 4 years now).

I ran into to that too. I bought an upright 60 or 80 Kobalt from Lowe's. Had to have 2 moisture traps, one right out of the compressor and a smaller one before the blast cabinet hook up. Also a drain valve on the bottom. Way more than I expected to spend at the time but happy with it by far now that it's all paid for.

Mine... Captain's...

Looks like the one on my Mom's Grand Marquis, red button on top. Her car wouldn't crank one night so she just left it and called a friend for a ride home THEN called me. I go and push the button, cranked the car and slammed the trunk so hard it tripped it again. I was a little mad. To add my experience with her Ford's button, when it's tripps you can see the red button up top flush with the metal body. When it's working it stays down. I'm sure it's a good, plentiful from a junkyard, switch especially if Grannyknot has one.

This is a timely song for me right now. Lyrics I picked up the paper this morning And read all the daily blues The world is one big tragedy I wonder what I can do About all the pain and injustice About all of the sorrow We're living in a danger zone The world could end tomorrow But I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight Tomorrow I might go as far as suicide But I won't let it bother me tonight Life on the street is a jungle A struggle to keep up the pace I just can't beat that old dog eat dog The rats keep winnin' the rat race But I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight The world is in an uproar and I see no end in sight But I won't let it bother me tonight I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight Tomorrow I might go as far as suicide But I won't let it bother me tonight Lord, Lord, Lord We got nothing but trouble I've done all I can do today So bartender pour me a double, right now But I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight The world is in an uproar and I see no end in sight But I won't let it bother me tonight I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight No I'm not gonna let it bother me tonight Tomorrow I might go as far as suicide But I will not let it bother me tonight

This is all I know of, Banzi Motorworks. https://www.zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php

here's another good read from the knowledge base

Check your TC rods too. I had one fall apart turning the wheel really tight backing out of my garage once. The nut had backed off.

Thank you guys! I've got some reading to do before I make the change over. I got an email on those bug eyed LEDs on ebay showing a big price drop. I may try the cheap ones on my 280 first then go all out on the 240 later on. I'm hesitant messing around with that black magic "electricity" you guys are so good at.

It isn't as easy as I first thought. I'll drive the Camry on my midnight runs.

if I were to buy LED headlights would I still need the "headlight upgrade harness"? I was thinking the lower power pull for the LEDs would eliminate the need for the harness. I never drive at night and the LEDs are funny looking but I do like the option if I decided to go for a midnight run. Thanks for any input. These are the lights I could buy for not much money if I decided to. https://www.ebay.com/i/174083088616?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=174083088616&targetid=916863675069&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9012737&poi=&campaignid=9343999170&mkgroupid=100238963011&rlsatarget=aud-762207186714:pla-916863675069&abcId=1139336&merchantid=118862638&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5-O7ofiL6gIVCK_ICh03Pwr2EAQYASABEgJeDfD_BwE

I have Trico 44-180 refills on my 240 and 280. Fit was perfect.

I agree with what's been noted above. The F54 siamesed block is an upgrade from the N42. Nissan wouldn't do that for nothing, there has to be an advantage. I had a friend that's mom had a turbo zx back in my day and damn it was fun. Then Buick came out with the grand national Regal. Out ran everything people around here could afford.

@S30Driver isn't this the same part you and I talked about a couple of years ago? Didn't you figure out a workaround somehow? I apologize if I'm way off base... thanks. Cliff

I've looked for a few minutes and found nothing definitive so I got bored. You might find something in these threads? https://www.google.com/search?q=greasing+240z+steering+rack+site:www.classiczcars.com&source=lmns&bih=606&biw=1280&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&hl=en&ved=2ahUKEwjM1-uVpIfqAhWbG98KHUKeDQMQ_AUoAHoECAEQAA

My 9/76 has the 5 speed with the emblem on the rear hatch. I've never seen a '78 without a 5 speed but wikipedia says it was an option that year too. "In late 1976 and for most 1977–78 models, an optional five-speed manual transmission was available alongside the four-speed manual and the three-speed automatic options. It included a "5-speed" emblem on the left bottom edge of the rear hatch."

It can't be too bad, no broken head bolts. Seems like I've broken at least one on every junkyard motor I've bought. I'd keep it for now if you have the room. Scrap it when you get your other motor in and running.

They used to cost about $10 so for maybe $15 I'd buy a new metal filter that goes up front before the fuel rail, passenger's side fender. Hacksaw it in half and see what you find. I very much doubt any crud would get past that filter and make it to your injectors. The tank liner I used was Red-Kote and you would see red slivers in that rear clear filter. That looks more like trash to me? Anyhow it shouldn't leak if you have it right out of the tank, before the high pressure fuel pump. You wouldn't want that after the fuel pump's 35-ish psi output in my opinion. Others will chime in later about your ignition overheating. That's the 2nd issue you could have off the top of my head. Good luck.

I've had crud inside my fuel tank that would let them run intermittently like that, it's a real pisser. Put a clear filter coming out of the tank and see what you have. Good write up here, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

Here's a nice chart on the different cams. Looks like the "M" has the lowest duration. Thanks @240260280 http://www.240260280.com/legacy/techtips/cam/index.htm

Here's some info on bigger throttle bodies. I've always read about 240sx TBs on 280s. https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&ei=LRPkXtafM6LhxgGAlZvwDw&q=240sx+throttle+body+classiczcars.com+&oq=240sx+throttle+body+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAwyBQghEKABMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCMgUIIRCrAjoECAAQRzoCCAA6BggAEBYQHjoICAAQFhAKEB46BQgAEM0CUKcXWNY1YMdAaABwAXgAgAHIAYgBqAaSAQUwLjQuMZgBAKABAQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp