siteunseen

I've decided to put this up for sale in the next week or so, there's a couple of big races in my area coming up. Honda Indy race at Barber Motorsports and then Talladega. I'm going to spend the money on my garage. It'll be on a few cities on craigslist.com, probably Gadsden Birmingham and Atlanta. When I get it posted I will put the link on this thread. Thanks

Good eyes! Give that man a cigar.

I kinda knew it had to, just didn't see any. I'd like to have a Lewinsky cigar, you know the ones soaked in cider. We have fun!

ACC in Anniston Alabama makes the best. Goggle that, put in your car and you'll get their kit number. Then google that. Most places get theirs from ACC. They have an ebay store that's cheaper than buying straight from their business. Look for ACC when you buy. I think it's an acronym for Automotive Custom Carpet. I've been there. They have all the molds from way back. Good luck. If we tag @James@TheZStore he'll help resolve your issue with MSA.

I just noticed or didn't notice something, no oil holes in any of his cam pics and no spray bar. Please tell me you have holes in the cam lobes and I just can't see them? You said it was a P79. The head builder must have opened up that hole for a mechanical pump then someone put an electric one on there for the triples.

Once you seal up the block with the head the only opening is at the front of the oil pan, right? Seems like the rear main seal would blow out if air wasn't released through that opening to the front cover then to the head. I'm just trying to figure out why they are plugging the block's PCV outlet. I don't see a reason for it, but there has to be.

I've been thinking, LOOK OUT , about having a plugged PCV system like the OP had to begin with. Could that have caused his smoke problem or been a band-aid for it? I've only seen two on here that had them plugged from a high performance builder.

After adjusting the valves on one I bought that was a slow starter, just barely bumping the key made it crank right up. It really makes a difference. Work sucks!

Here's an adjustment article you might find a tip or two in. https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105 And my tip is to make a board with the exhaust and intake info, mark them off as you do them because you can do two at a time with very little movement of the cam but it skips around. So it's a lot quicker than doing #1 through #12. Another thing I did was make a center mark on the front cam tower, our motors tilt to the passenger's side and you have to get the lobe pointed straight up from the tilted motor, not looking straight on at it. An empty beer case works good for me and are plentiful around here. Stick it under the passenger's wiper blade.

The short hardline connection on the cylinder is in a different location. You have to bend that to get it to work. It's not too hard, I did mine. I finally found a picture, not so good but you'll get the idea. Also I found it was easier for to swap those short hardlines from one side to the other, not as drastic of a bend and less bending.

You are right, mine doesn't have a separate washer either. Sorry about that. The bolts have flats under the head on these I can put my hands on. I'll check my other heads tomorrow.

Mine have #21 and they're flat washers I believe.

Put the car in high gear and roll it back and forward. I've adjusted mine that way until I got a remote starter. With the plugs out it's pretty easy. Use the tire to roll it, there's not alot of places to grab on to up front. That rear lobe looks suspect to me. Now if you could post a pic of the rocker under it, the passenger's side where the contact pad is.

I'll go on and say I'm a sissie. When I travel it's toothbrush, noise maker and heating pad.

Sounds good to me! I think I can swing it early this summer if the rebuild was okay. I mated the tranny up today, laying on a heating pad tonight. It's getting close to "fire in the hole" time. Captain and myself hit a few that's for true. The poolside is what got my time. I was on vacation not probation, I didn't have anybody to check in with.

It's your high praises for the SUs. I watched "My Cousin Vinny" this morning. Marisa Tomei said her torque wrench was dead balls accurate. I thought about you when she said it was common term in the industry.

That hole is wallard out anyway. You might just put in a bigger bolt. No heli coil But then you'd need to make the pumps hole larger too.

I just got off the phone with my mechanic buddy. He says the same thing about the rings with the wet test numbers raising the compression. He says the rings gaps not staggered right could be a cause?

Yep! I think think it's an m8x125 size you'll need a heli coil for.

Mine has 3 long bolts that go to the left side. Skinny at the top, 2 bigger middle and bottom left. 2 skinny shorts go on the right side. One about 2 o'clock the other at 5 o'clock.

The lower left is a 12mm and the right one is a 10mm, looking from the front. Maybe somebody forced a 12 in there. Try your old bolts.

I've reused mine multiple times. If it does come off the valve cover, leave the bolts after loosening them up and it should stay, make sure and put the front straight side on the drivers side. I put mine on upside down once and had a small vacuum leak. I'd be hoping it's in the valve where it's loosing pressure from not seating / sealing tight. Seems easiest to repair to me.

That conforms what I put on tjete Thank you @Zed Head. I had a mini-stroke earlier when my new pressure plate wouldn't line up with the aluminum flywheel I put on yesterday. Dug out the OE flywheel and moved the pressure plate around laying face up on my bench. Found the right holes and marked them with a sharpie. Mounted right up then! Now I'm thinking I should've used thread locker on the 6 bolts? Torques at 15lbs. Probably go back and do that after I calm my nerves from the misalignment issue.

I found this showing the two plates for a Z. Think the one I'm using with just the hole for the end of the crank is for ZXs.

I appreciate that Steve, I'm definitely going to. I'm getting real close on this "quick rebuild" I started over a year ago, and it's the car I want to drive over there.