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Captain Obvious

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Posts posted by Captain Obvious


  1. 5 hours ago, siteunseen said:

    That is period correct. LOL    Just tacky.

    LOL    What he said!

    Somebody put a lot of effort into that interior. I thought I could deal with it until I saw the e-brake boot. Then I decided that I couldn't.  Haha!!

    The rest of the car (other than the choice of interior) looks great!  So what are the two switches under the aftermarket console cover?


  2. I took a quick five second look on the internets for info on the tested and turned up what appears to be a manual? Maybe?
    http://datsunforum.com/efi-troubleshooting-kent-moore-j25400-analyzer/

    datsun_fuel_injection-105.jpg

    It's in .jpg form (not pdf), so reading through it is a little more difficult.

    I'm assuming you have already trawled the web looking for info on the tester and with that in mind, I'm assuming you've already been through this doc? I could get lost for hours looking for info...

     


  3. Couple days ago I picked up a spare fuel sending unit to mess around with. First thing I did was checked the thermistor, and it's open circuit. So unfortunately no help there with analyzing a working one, but at least I get to see the thing with my own two eyes.

    So since the thermistor was already dead, I figured no harm in starting the autopsy. Desoldered the end lead:
    P1170416.JPG

    And pulled (what's left of) the thermistor out of the can. The thermistor nugget itself is completely vaporized. Just like what you guys found, all that was left was the two leads:
    P1170417.JPG

    I still contend that there is nothing interesting inside the black plastic end plug. Here's some shots of the two ends:
    P1170420.JPG

    P1170421.JPGA

    And for confirmation, I took it apart. It's just a brass ferrule with flared over ends so it stays in place inside the black plastic cap. And then they use that brass tube as a connection point to solder the flexible wire to one of the thermistor leads. Looks like this. They just bent the ends of the two wires into "U" shapes and hooked them together and then soldered the whole thing together:
    P1170422.JPG

    Here's the hollow brass tube after the solder has been removed:
    P1170423.JPG

    So there's no mystery hidden inside that plastic cap. It's just transition from yellow lead wire to the thermistor lead. @Dave WM If you're going to do another thermistor swap, you don't have to splice the wire to the old stub. You can just solder it into the ferrule.

    • Like 1

  4. 1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

    A real electronic guy always want to take a look inside hey....  @Captain Obvious

    20200913_161748.jpg

     

    Very nice! Thanks for the pics. That tester is very cool. Hope you can actually get it to work!

    Looking at the back of the board, I don't see anything that looks like a microprocessor. I I would have expected it to be computer based, but unless they used something small (unlikely during that time), it doesn't appear so.

    That thing must've cost thousands when it was new.


  5. Lots of engines use the rail to hold the injectors in place, but all the parts used need to be designed to be used that way.

    The holes in the manifold need to be sized correctly for the O-ring on the nose. The holes in the fuel rail need to be sized correctly for the O-ring on the tail. And the distance between the manifold and the fuel rail needs to be correct. If those three things are achieved, there's nothing wrong with using the fuel rail to hold the injectors in place.

    Of course... The current engine does none of these. Boring the manifold out to accept the Green Giants, is just one necessary step.


  6. Yeah, I don't see how the disparaging comments about rotaries would cause this much of an issue.

    So I have no idea what I'm looking at with that graph. I mean, I can read the legend in the lower left, but I don't know what "normal" looks like. What's the horizontal time scale on that screen capture? It was running for minutes, seconds, a second?

    What's Haltech's response to this whole thing?


  7. Wait! Don't cut the stub off! First thing to try would be penetrating oil, some heat, and grabbing that stub with a pair of pliers. If you cut it off, you'll lose that opportunity. Wiggle it back and forth. If you can get it to move at all, you're pretty much home free.

    And you've got another advantage in that it's not a blind hole. You have access to both side. Is there any bolt length sticking out the other side?

    And what is the base piece made out of? Is it steel or aluminum?

    • Like 2

  8. I recently stripped down a pair of strut tubes and I took this pic down the tube. With the right reflected light, you can get a decent look down there. Enough to see the center portion convex outward and the weld bead around the perimeter of the dome:
    P1170406.JPG

    So any idea how much interference you have? Is it something that you could "workaround" by chamfering the bottom corner of the strut body? Take a little material off the OD at the bottom? Just a little? Maybe? Without creating a weak spot and blowing out the strut on rapid compression?


  9. Haha!! Just like on the playground back in.... Wait, it's been so long that I don't remember how far back it was.   LOL

    So how was the event???

    I'm so sorry I had to miss this and I'm looking forward to living vicariously through others!


  10. @grannyknot, What tool did you use to cut your perches loose on your 510?

    When I cut the perches off the stubs I got from @wheee!, I did it on the lathe by boring the inside out until the perches fell off. Can't do that with the bodies I want to put on the car.

    I had originally planned to just go completely postal with the grinder and cut the perches off my tubes in pieces (since I didn't need to salvage them). But your removal method looked gentle enough that you could reuse the perches (which I assume was your plan).

    IMG_0213.JPG


  11. So I found front suspension parts on craigslist and went on a safari to grab them. Nice guy, reasonable prices, close enough to drive to for heavy stuff. I'm very happy with how the whole thing turned out. Front suspension loaded in the back of the Family Truckster:
    P1170378.JPG

    Got it home and stripped everything down. Here's the strut bodies and the Tokico's that came out:
    P1170403.JPG

    So that's where I am right now. Had to resort to the pipe wrench to get the gland nuts off, but other than that, everything went swimmingly.

     

    P1170404.JPG


  12. I think the plan of leaving the manifolds and balance tube is a good one. If everything works out well you can always swap out the balance tube later if you get tired of looking at the EGR parts. As for the hard lines, some of them are water and some of them are exhaust. When/If you're going to switch over to a 70-72 balance tube, just cap all the water and exhaust ports off. If there's something specific you're concerned about, post a pic and we can talk about it.

    And it sounds like you're fine with the linkages. I think they only made two lengths (longer for the round tops and a shorter version for the flat tops), so if you got two different lengths from the guy you bought everything from, it sounds like you've got what you need there.

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