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Zed Head

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Posts posted by Zed Head

  1. There was actually a good crowd on there for a while.  They knew a lot.  Tony D was a troll, you just had to ignore him.  Even Tony D had some good advice at times, if you picked through his vitriol.  Most of them have moved on, some left the Z world, some just got tired of the internet I think.  The site owner, SuperDan, seems to have put things on autopilot.  Won't be a surprise if he sells it. 

    zcar.com got sold years ago and was moderated by some sort of committee that used the same account name.  "something"boy, I think it was.  It was a different person responding whenever you reported something.  Their purpose was just to keep the site functional, they knew nothing abut the content.  It was just a place for Google ads.  Apparently it's different now, but I haven't been there for years.  

  2. Don't overlook that the torque range is wide (probably) because it's an adjustment range.  Torque to the minimum number then measure end play and preload.  If it's not right go a little tighter.  If you get all the way to 239 and things still aren't right there's probably a problem.

  3. If the quote says "cash - full price, will pick up" it's probably worth hanging on to.  But if it has contingencies like "after arrival and inspection" I'd avoid them.   Some of these places will get people in to a bind so that they have to take a lower price.  Just be careful.

    Since it runs and drives and you're in the middle of the country, coast-to-coast, it wouldn't be a surprise if somebody bought it and tried to drive it home.   Spring is coming and people have been cooped up.  You have good odds.

    You could probably find a garage with a lift that will let you take some pictures while it's up.  The work you put in before you advertise it will make a difference.  That green Z in the BAT listing probably left a few thousand behind because they posted a dirty car.

  4. Check out some of the BAT listings to see what buyers want to see, and the way they want to see it.  Your pictures need work, it makes a difference.  Clean it up, make a driving video to show that everything works.  You might get over 15,000 if it shines up and runs well.  You're pretty far away so if you have shipping options available that will help.  Basically, make it easy for a buyer to decide to buy.

    Here's one - https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-162/

  5. He has a 77 so that is actually the fitting for the coolant line to the plate under the AAR.

    Looks like #52 here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/cylinder-head/52

    Probably hard to find.  Many of the threads on the engine are BSPT.  Might be able to get an adapter and use an NPT elbow.  Or people have had success just jamming NPT in to BSPT holes.  Risky.



    Or - @Terrapin Z


  6. Considering all you could look at it this way - standard rings will be slightly larger, better, than the worn-out rings you are replacing, just because they aren't worn.  So you'll get a small amount of improved sealing.  With a hone the new rings will seat and seal to the new bore but with a slightly too large gap.  So, you'll be basically back to where you started, but with new bearings and whatever other work you're planning.  Probably valve guides and seals and other things.  So, overall, you'll probably be less smoky but it will run as well or better than it did when you took it apart.  When the time comes in a couple of years, if you really have only put a few thousand miles on it, you can take it apart and do the bores and pistons and just leave the work you already did.  Because the old work will still be almost new.

    Basically, just hone it and use new standard size rings, then finish the job in a few years.  Or, odds are good, it will just run so well that you don't get back to it for ten years.

    Trying to fit oversize rings probably won't really buy you much, is what I'm saying.  Although it would be interesting to try.

    I don't think you said if you ever heard the engine run or used it.  How bad was it?

    • Like 1

  7. Just dig in, mentally, to what the nut does, and what the purpose of the crimp over the flat section is for.  It seems mysterious but it's actually very crude.  It's actually a last safeguard that should never be needed.  You could probably torque the nut and never crimp it and 99.99% of the time it would not come loose.  

    Also, consider the chemistry of the thread lockers, which weren't available in the 70's.  If you buy a new differential today it will come with thread locker on the bolt for the locking pin.  No special crimps or lock washers even though if the lock pin comes loose, it's disaster for the differential.  I'd do what zKars says above and add some red Loctite for extra peace of mind.  

    It's just a nut on the end of a shaft.


  8. I entered my old land line number from years back and the addresses of several of the various places I've lived and worked at, before I even got the number, came up, and a bunch of my relatives and some strangers as associated with my name.  It was weird but kind of useful.  I saved the data because I'd forgotten the addresses.

    And that's just the publicly available stuff.  I bet if one of the intelligence agencies wanted to they could have all of your old numbers and acquaintances and tell you about stuff you did that you don't even remember.

    • Like 1

  9. Wonder Women?  There's more than one?  Sweet.

    Ford has its own group-think thing going on.  Their brand loyalty has people spending big money even when they know the model they're buying has major problems.  Pretty incredible.  (No offense).  Not Motorcraft?  It must be crap!  One of the first things I ended up doing after I got mine (used, but looked great and priced right) was to buy a code reader/scanner so I could figure out my Service Engine Soon light that came on within a month.  Then I tore the top off the engine and fixed the known issues that Ford had let drag on until the model was replaced.  It's a nice rig now but they're high upkeep at times.

    The Ford forums have have whole separate sub-forums about how to read codes because they pop up so often.

  10. Normally I would not post this because what people have done in the past is not really my business.  Maybe they had their reasons.  But I did a Google on the phone number and a surprising amount of stuff came up.  Never seen so much info in one place from one phone number.  Not sure what it means, but anyone with a Google machine can find it, it's the first hit.  Many past names for the same guy.  Why?


    He said call me with questions so it's not like he's hiding it.

    The car is located in Beverly Hills... Inspections are welcome and encouraged... serious buyers can call me at 310 850 8980 but no tire kickers please. I'm open to interesting trades (in accordance with ebay guidelines) but no projects or junk please. VIDEO AVAILABLE!


  11. It's the harmony01 guys again.  Suspiciously close to URGELIS in Rancho Cucamonga.  That is a low number though.  I wonder if it's in the Registry of America.


    Says he prefers period look, but drives it daily with mags.  ?

     I actually use my cars and drive them daily... I prefer a period look and feel to 100 point concours cars.



  12. On your original point about forums, I found on the Ford forum I frequent that there are many good people on the forum.  Smart and helpful.  But the A-holes are lurking, waiting to jump in and get their perverse thrills by abusing new members.  Usually it's just a few guys that have banded together in their weakness.  If you just maintain a good attitude the good ones will usually come out to help and the A-holes will fade away.  Many forums are like this, I think.  Trolls are everywhere, it's a disease.

    • Like 2
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