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Zed Head

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Posts posted by Zed Head


  1. There are really only five connections to worry about.  Ignition systems are easy to get wired up correctly.  But the different types can have different problems even when wired correctly. There isn't one that"s obviously better than the others.  You have to decide what you want from it before you can pick one.


  2. I had a thread over on Hybridz about the variations and there are a bunch, with reverse synchro and double synchros on some gears, along with the different ratios and wider gears .  And they're not all called 71C, they go all the way up to 71H.  The truck variations might have the wider gears, outside of where the 240SX was sold.

    When nicoclub had all of the Nissan manuals online you could browse through them and see the differences.  Nissan got all snooty and claimed copyright, forcing them to remove them from the site.

    • Sad 1

  3. Generally, as I understand things, advancing cam timing moves the power band to lower RPM.  A bit ironical because it means that as the engine gets more miles it makes more power at higher RPM.  Where it should spend less time due to wear and age.  Might be why Nissan added the two extra holes.

    I'd think that you'd want to degree the cam to perfection, to where the cam builder has designed it.  Low RPM grunt can feel like more power.  Might also be more detonation prone though..  You need to build a dyno.


  4. 6 hours ago, Zed Head said:

    Whatever is happening you should be able to remove the nut with the strut installed without worrying about anything dropping, to see what's going on.  The shock is gas-filled and has a few pounds of upward force on it. 

    I do.  The springs hold the car up.  You'll be fine and you can get a good look at it.

    Edit - actually you want the car on the ground, weight on the strut,you don't want the wheels hanging.  The strut/shock is what keeps the wheel from dropping and the spring from extending.  If you have the wheel hanging and you remove the nut that would be bad.


  5. This just popped in to my head - some grinders use blanks to make their high performance cams.  So they could keep the stock base circle.  They only need to cut the base circle down if they regrind a factory cam.

    Looks like Schneider does either.  http://schneidercams.com/dastsunL6_NA.aspx

    Your measurements imply about a 7 mm lift, 0.28".  I think that Nissan rocker arms are either 1.5 or 1.6 ratio.  So you'd be at 0.42 to 0.45" valve lift.  Even with measurement error, that's not going to be a high lift cam.  Cam timing is important though and that might be where any performance improvements come from.

    So it might be a Schneider cam, moving the RPM range for power, but it's not one of their super-duper cams, like the 300F.

    • Like 1

  6. Some people think that the P79 head with flat top pistons has better quench/squish, which is supposed to offer better efficiency and detonation-proofing.  But others who seem to know a lot say that the squish effect, even if better, is still pretty poor for the P79/flat top setup.

    Power measurements suggest that there's essentially no difference between the two L28 combos.


  7. You can mark the shaft with a Sharpie and give the nut a half-turn.  If the mark doesn't move the nut is stripped.  The threads of the Nylock nut are still steel though, shouldn't strip easily.

    It looks to me like the shaft is not through the D shaped hole.  The shaft should penetrate farther through the nut, in your picture.

    Whatever is happening you should be able to remove the nut with the strut installed without worrying about anything dropping, to see what's going on.  The shock is gas-filled and has a few pounds of upward force on it.  You might be able to move it by hand and it will pop up through the hole if you get the D's aligned.  First thing to do is to get that nut off of there.  An air/impact wrench would work well for that since the D hole is not working.  Worst case it just spins backward.


  8. 1 hour ago, jfa.series1 said:

     I suspect they recommend a rubber bushing on the backside to reduce a hard rebound snap pulling forward on the T/C box mount.  The design of the T/C box is oriented to resist rearward forces, not the other direction.  

    The rod moves up and down at the control arm with the suspension also, so there is a side force on the back/tip of the rod from the bushing, as the bushing restricts the motion. I think that it causes metal fatigue and that's what breaks the T/C rods.  I had urethane on the back of mine for a while and the front end groaned over bumps for a couple of months then the tip of the rod finally broke off.

    If a person had some time they could mount just the back of the rod and move the front up and down by hand, just to feel the difference in effort required.  Might be illuminating.

    • Like 1

  9. File the flats on the nuts down smooth and parallel,  Get some vise-grips like site showed or even bigger, with jaws that are in good shape.  Clamp the vise-grips down very tightly on the -nut, it's half=destroyed anyway.  Heat the area around the nut with a torch or a heat gun.  Put some force on the vise-grips and it should break loose with a sound like it broke.  If the vise-grips start to slip at all take them off and refile the nut flats and reset the vise-grips.  Take 20 minutes to setup and 20 seconds to actually break it free.

    If you're not getting anything at the MC bleeder then you also have a problem with the seals in it.  Reman quality can be pretty poor, take it off and swap it for a new reman.  Probably has a lifetime warranty.

    "The bleeding nut on the MC for the rears didn't release anything."

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