Zed Head

Just wanted to see if this will add a new Topic and post on the front page.

How is chatting different from posting in a thread? Chat Room content disappears, thread content is forever. There doesn't seem to be any advantage to Chat. What am I missing?

Retarded timing burns cleaner, apparently. That's the basis. One thing to consider though is that Nissan might have designed the advance curve to fit the expected initial timing. Your initial timing setting will be added to total advance. I have a distributor with "11" advance mechanism, 22 degrees, so if I set mine to 17 I'll end up at 39 total. Probably not the best. You need to know your distributor. That's why some people set their timing to max advance desired, using a dial-back light or some other calculation. You can make it run better at low and mid-range RPM but end up with lower power or detonation on the high end.

Your title says original, but you're asking about if it's been removed. You know that the early cars had the engine serial number stamped on the car's ID plate, right? If they match, it's original. Then you can say "numbers matching" engine.

The fancy chrome hood lock pins probably looked like that when they started but now people put them on for show. I think that you could get it done under the door. Not visible. Just an option. A ready-made cap with a key would be nice, but apparently they're not available.

There are other ways to make the stock cap a locking cap. A bar or a pin in the right place, maybe brazed on, or mounted with those screws with one-way heads.

I read through that other link and looked at the pictures and descriptions here and I get the impression that there are a variety of bends out there. Some hit the diff, some hang too low, some are too high. The specs must be wide.

You mean it won't fit side-to-side, or up and down, or the muffler doesn't fit if you get the pipe in the groove? Picture!

I think that you'll need a skin on the surface that's either flexible so that it can move with the cracking underneath, or a skin that has high tensile strength so that it can resist the cracking. The substrate, the old foam, is just weak. You can attach strong stuff to it. but it will fail again. Don't hurry, I'm sure that others will have suggestions. Might take a few days to get the views. One option might be to feather in a dash cap. The dash caps are made to glue on top of the cracked dash and tend to look like that. A glued on cap, with edges showing. Not terrible, but can be seen as caps.. But, since you have yours out, maybe you could do some cutting and molding to make it look like one piece. The caps have some other problems also, like making the gauges hard to replace but you might be able to solve that problem while it's out too. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic08d04

Even if you get the foam to stick the crack will probably reopen, becuase the stuff it's sticking too s degraded. I haven't done one but if I did I'd fill, shape, and fill with foam again until I had a decent base to lay some thin glass mat or vinyl over. Just use the old crusty foam as a support for a better skin. The foam will fall apart for the same reason it cracked in the first place. It's a tough job. Congrats on the new project.

Also - what does this mean?

Hey, since you're here - I had a thought about sites that I would click through to on a regular basis. Amazon, for sure. Put a link to Amazon here and I'll use it whenever I go there. Rockauto, definitely. Home Depot. I'll think of some others, but there are probably some obvious ones. I don't know how Google AdSense works exactly, but maybe you can lock a few ads in that will make the site a portal to other sites, that sell things besides Z car stuff. Edit - and, more generally, you could move some ads off of the more prominent spots. Like, I'm probably never going to buy a new Chrysler. Or a Michelin tire.

It's the 75-76 280Z tanks that are the hot item. They fit the 240Z's. The 77-78 tanks have the space-saver tire shape.

Aren't Kelly Bundy and coffee enough medication? Mike must be lurking. There's changes. I'll just fade back in to the crowd.

Those are made by EuroDat/Chas, from Holland, that's his thread. Good luck.

Just realized the 24 Hours shows every post, not every topic. Bummer. Oh well.

I didn't know the "discover" page was back. The 24 Hour page. Just switched. Thanks. You're right, it's direct to the latest activity. When I complain I like to think that I speak for the masses, that are otherwise just visiting less. But, it might be just me... Is the ironic part of the cartoon that someone in a blue shirt would help someone in a red shirt?

And sorry Mike, if that's a picture you took and that's why it's there. It's well done. Just a little played.

This will seem ironic, coming from me, but the big picture of the back end of a 280Z seems like it would be better used for some tasteful ads. Allowing the stuff I really want to see, new forum content, to rise up to where I can see it. As it stands the first thing I see is the back of that car and it's getting old, having to scroll down to where the good stuff is. Just saying, less 280Z butt, more ads, more content...everybody wins!

At last you're on the correct end of the car now. Still more to the puzzle though.

That's a good idea. A variation might be to use a needle on the end of your air hose and just insert it into the channel between the glass and seal, from the inside. Pressurize that,low pressure so you don't blow out the seal, and you should get plenty of bubbles on the outside. There can actually be a fairly large chamber between the glass and seal. The water that leaked in to mine from the outside would exit from the lower right corner on a left hand turn then from the lower left on a right hand turn. I had pondered finding a low viscosity liquid sealant to fill the void between seal and glass. But when I realized the leak was at the top and I'd have to fill a lot of void I went with the external black silicone. Plus my car is ratty. I'll bet you can find a very low viscosity sealant that will squirt and fill that void. We used to use something like that for Chevy windshields to fill the gap at the bottom. It flowed to fill gaps.

It's hard to find leak spots. Where it gets in and where it comes out are usually not close together. I removed the metal trim on mine to try and give some flexibility to the seal so I could squeeze some sealant in between the body and seal. It was a real pain getting it back in. I'd use the tricks from forums like this over the FSM procedures. The factory is using new slippery flexible factory seals and probably has special tools. We're out here in the real world.

Support the transmission and drop the crossmember by removing the single nut in middle and the bolts on the sides. Then the insulator nuts will be exposed. Actually not really sure what you're trying to do. What help would it be to drop the differential anyway? EDIT - your title says diff and your text says transmission. Edit 2 - you can let the nose of the diff hang down on the mustache bar to get a wrench on the nuts above. It's very strong spring steel and well bolted on.

Have you read the Body chapter section on the windshield? Describes installation, and also a sealer that they use between the glass and seal. If the seal is still flexible you might be able to reuse it, with sealant, although their removal procedure is destructive. They also talk about sealing leaks. It's a good read!