Zed Head

I bought some of the mounts with no attached nut and did not have the problem. But I had to supply my own four nuts and bolts, and the threads on the stud were buggered up. Poor quality overall. Can't remember the brand. Maybe people could list some brands, and we'll find a good one. Sounds like Anchor has the mismatched peg.

Do you mean the peg, not the circle? Basically made a 1/2 peg? You could also file the peg down flat,then drill and tap a hole n the right spot. Run a small bolt through, or just a press fit rivet in an unthreaded hole, and you have a new peg. Looks like the mounts changed in 73. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/engine-mounting/manual-from-c-hls30-46001-rls30-grls30

$21,600. 3 d 17h left.

Is that one of those European cars? Noting shows on the link. Maybe you have to be a member.

Might just be toxicity. Silicone fluids are generally non-toxic.

They are identical (but not symmetrical) and someone did flip one for the other side. Nissan. That's they way they made 'em. Everybody takes a pause when they first see that.

I think that it helps to remove the bolts, maybe just one, holding the struts to the brackets though. They stick out and stop the edge from sliding by. It's a tough job.

Probably hard to find a non-purple DOT 5. It's purple so that some well-meaning mechanic doesn't cause a huge problem by topping off with a non-DOT 5 fluid. Compatibility.

The "pump" is the engine, vacuum comes from the intake manifold. The bottle is right next to the magnet valves so you'd have to run some extra vacuum hose or move the valves also. It should be easy enough to do though, just run more hose. The bottle/reservoir needs to be stiff enough to withstand the external pressure.

Sounds like progress. The TVS is an important component. Ignition timing needs to be right also, of course. If you get to where it runs great, but just has a slight hesitation at mid-range throttle, consider adjusting the coolant temperature sensor circuit resistance. It's a common fix. The 280Z's seem to have been tuned to the edge originally for emissions and economy, and many have ended up too lean over the years. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html And, of course, fuel pressure,

I had a certain 205-70-14 tire (can't remember which brand) on my factory alloy wheels and they rubbed slightly when cornering hard. I think it was just a touch on the fender lip. Rolling it probably would have fixed it, but I got new tires of the same size and it stopped. That's on a lowered car, Tokico springs on a 280Z. There's not a ton of room in there. Control arm bushings might play a part also, but, somewhat ironically, the loose factory rubber might be better to avoid rubbing since it lets the body move away from the outside tire, which tends to get closer to the fender lip on a hard corner. Lots to think about. I've had a whole range of cars over the years that rubbed, from the inner fender well to the outer edge. How you plan to use the car matters.

It's harmony01. Who never actually closes a sale, apparently. http://www.ebay.com/sch/harmony01/m.html?item=162128506902&viewitem=&rmvSB=true&forcerRptr=true&afsrc=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Think I found it. Toyota 4 piston truck calipers with 300ZX rotors. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5705

Just noticed your offset question. Your rotor/disc is offset, but your wheels are not. The spacers are behind the wheel mounting surface, moving the rotor inboard. So you're running normal offset wheels, probably. There's a big selection out there.

Don't forget the off-setting problems theory either. He might be thinking the coolant sensor isn't involved becuase they usually run rich when that's a problem. But you seem to be running lean. He's focused on lean. A shorted coolant sensor circuit would cause lean. By the way the sensor is often shortened to CTS.

OP means original poster. The guy that started the thread. Yes, the sensitive tech problem. It shows up occasionally. People will get on to a forum and announce that they are an ASE certified tech but then realize that they don't know how these old systems work. Lots of teeth-gnashing and nasty words ensue, typically. If you want to give him the foundation for the whole system show him the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter, and the "fuel enrichment" chart. It's all about adding fuel to a base injector open time. Then he can reason things out as he goes. More satisfying.

I mentioned that in #82 but it's buried in other words. The OP is probably at that point where he's thinking "maybe I should replace all of this EFI stuff with carbs?"

Home Depot press-on weather strip around the cardboard panel is the cheapest fastest. But working on the other stuff is fun anyway. Thanks for the part numbers cliffunseen. Added to my list of extra stuff I should buy.

Your front brakes have been "upgraded". I think that Toyota calipers are the common one. Look around for "big brake" kits to see more. Welcome to old Z car world.

Actually, the wide open part isn't adjustable. So it might just be dirty or the wires are shorted. It's a fairly crude mechanism.

Not trying to overload you. That one test result, showing wide open throttle, should be causing your engine to run really gassy though. So you must have another problem, or that result is wrong. Easy to get the probes in the wrong spot. Once you have an out-of-spec. result though, then you can focus on what that part of the system controls.

Like site said, it's adjustable. Engine Fuel chapter. Really can't emphasize enough how one of the main things that make these cars so easy to own, fix, and maintain, is the availability of the free Factory Service Manuals. The TPS can get dirty also. Note that we call it the TPS but it should really be TVS.

You might have overlapping wrongness then. Because the test results would be showing the ECU that you have the throttle wide open. That adds 27% extra fuel to whatever the base calculation is, which should cause it to run better when cold and bad when warm. Gassy smelling and rough running when warm. But the fact that it runs better warm would indicate a lean mixture. Which could be a shorted coolant temperature sensor circuit (page 56 in the 1975 EFI Guide), indicating a very warm engine to the ECU, and removing fuel. That might be the popping when cold, but runs okay when warm. The ECU thinks it's very hot and removes fuel, but the WOT (3-18 continuity) indication adds fuel. Or you might just have low fuel pressure (lean), or clogged injectors, being compensated for by the WOT 3-18 results. 23 degrees is way advanced timing for the EFI engines. Spec. is probably 7 or 10. Many people run a little extra, like 12-15 to add some throttle response and a bit more power. You have an engine that runs which is more than many. But you have to get all of those small details right. Once you start knocking some down it's not a bad process. Set your timing to 7 degrees when warm for starters. That's where it should be. Picture from the Engine Tuneup chapter.

You can't get to the nuts that hold the studs unless you remove the inside panel. You need a think pokey thing to remove the rivets. And you'll probably lose some of the black spaghetti pieces.

You can't get to the nuts that hold the studs unless you remove the inside panel. You need a think pokey thing to remove the rivets. And you'll probably lose some of the black spaghetti pieces.