Zed Head

I think the biggest problem is the bolt pattern. zcardepot seems to have one that will work. The difference in effort between small and big is probably barely noticeable.

...make some stir-fry.

This is actually an opportunity to improve what you have. Or you can just try to get it back to what it was before it started chattering. But there are definitely ways to make things worse even with new parts. Pedal force required can increase with a low-tolerance low cost pressure plate, for example. Those cheap eBay parts are just people with offshore manufacturing connections, bringing parts over, and/or distributors for all of the other brands. Typically they just reverse engineer what's out there, have it made overseas, and give it a their name. They're just a distributor; databases, computers, and shipping is what they do. Better to get an established brand, I think. Some of these are old but one is from 2012, and the yelps are very recent. http://gripforce.com/ http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/aftermarket-vendor-review/647885-gripforce-f1-racing-clutches.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1106051 http://www.yelp.com/biz/gripforce-brea

Many parts stores will gladly bring in extra parts to have on hand if they might make a sale. Does't really hurt them, their warehouse trucks won't notice a few extra pounds. Doesn't hurt to ask. They'd probably let you buy both and return the one you don't use. OR, your mechanic might be able to get them both on hand. Mechanics have connections. Don't assume that you need the internet. Seriously, if your mechanic has been in business for a while, he should have the answers to all of your questions, including the resurfacing. He may not want to do the running around but he should know. Have you asked? Aside from that, it would be a sad comment on the state of industry in America if a guy in MICHIGAN, the former heartland of the automotive world, can't get a flywheel resurfaced. The crankshaft seal is one piece, press-fit.

You'd have to assume that the PO kept the original 2+2 flywheel. Odds are good that it's still the bigger 240mm 2+2 clutch. But, chatter is often a sign that the flywheel friction surface is uneven. So, you might need a flywheel resurface. These days, a resurface might cost more than a replacement flywheel. Strange but true, depending on your location, labor costs can be high. You could call around about the cost of resurfacing then decide whether to get a replacement flywheel. If you end up getting a replacement then you have more options. Although the factory parts are of high quality. Can't you find decent parts in the neighborhood? Why go to eBay if you don't have to? Then you can swap easily them if they're not right. The 240mm flywheels and clutch kits are still fairly common. The 225mm flywheels are hard to find.

There is one small piece that can be replaced in there that will add some compliance. Called a spacer, it sits between the spring seat and the insulator. Still available I think, I bought some a couple of years ago. They compress and look like one piece but they can be pried out. It's just a rubber donut. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/13

I was just showing a possibility. eBay is another. He has a part number now, hit the Google..

Kind of odd that the buyback price was so high. Seems like they might be trying to play the emotional angle and trying to squeeze a few dollars out of the deal. It will probably go to a wrecking yard for $300, which is how I thought they set their buyback prices. Or is there a company out there that buys wrecked classics and parts them out or rebuilds them? There's $4500 worth of part-out there?

Old factory stock. http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-coupling-steer~48073-78500.html http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-column/28

There is at least one, maybe two, labels on the car that many smog testers use. The one on my door jamb says "No Catalyst" in big bold letters. If it says "Catalyst" then he'll look for a converter. I had to point out once that there was a "No" in front of Catalyst after the guy looked at it then stuck his mirror under the car. I don't know what the labels say about EGR, my car doesn't have it.

CA is a tough place to own an old car. RCB may have got lucky and the inspector didn't look at his headers, as he suggested. They're heavy and shipping will be expensive. ZSpecialties might have one though. Probably need a $40 resurfacing and might have broken studs to remove. http://www.datsunstore.com/manifolds-exhaust-7083-p-2020.html

Linear springs will work fine. Rossiz has a set of Vogtland and Stagg on his 1978 car and likes them, If I recall right. They will lower the car slightly from stock, I believe. About an inch. @rossiz If those are the factory inserts, the tubes will be full of fishy-smelling oil, under the gland nut. The aftermarket inserts are self-contained, not the factory units though. Don't know if the factory units will over-extend or not.

I think it's called a CARB sticker or stamp. It means the part has been approved as a replacement part. If you can find a brand it might be on their list. Still need the plumbing to the EGR valve. At least you have the correct intake manifold. The black plate at the back with the two bolts is where the valve used to be. http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/amquery.php http://www.arb.ca.gov/homepage.htm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_Air_Resources_Board

Your subconscious says you want it.

The visual part is that simple. Get the right parts bolted on so everything looks right. Getting it all working correctly might take some work. The 1977 system is pretty simple though, unlike the later ZX systems. Fewer valves and gizmos to worry about.

A lot like the first one though, isn't it? L28 instead of L24, triple Weber instead of double, but bodywise, the same questions. Even the same color. Welded diff, "upgraded" brakes that don't work. Twice the price. Not seeing a huge difference.

@Zed Head @Zed Head Think I figured it out. You have to choose the name from a drop down menu. If you add the @ after the fact it doesn't work.

@Mark Maras He's a hoarder. Obviously, I don't know how to do the "@" thing. Anyway, he might see it.

"Stage 1" is a generic term that is only defined by the number "1". seriously, one grinder's Stage 1 is another's Stage 3.2. Leon was right I think, talk to a good grinder and tell him your plans. The good ones have already blown engines up for you learning what works and what doesn't. The 10:1 limit is another generic recommendation. Pretty sure it comes from the guys that do just a head or piston swap (ending up with a shaved N42 or N47 with flat-top pistons, or an MN47 on flat-tops) but keep a stock a cam and combustion chamber. The net result is just a higher CR on an already detonation-prone engine. A good head porter/combustion-chamber-shaper can reduce the tendency to detonate. You can spend a ton of study on the topic. The key is to get the right combination of parts. You can't pick just one parameter at a time. It's a system.

People do remove everything all at in one shot but it's a lot of weight and bulky. I think that I would remove one suspension assembly at a time, with the diff nose supported (with a block or hang it from above, or wiggle the control arm out and put the bolts back in), then drop the diff and mustache bar as a unit. Or drop the diff and mustache bar together, with the two sides supported, then drop them as sub-assemblies, one at a time. Basically three sub-assemblies to work with. Don't let the left or right suspension components hang from the top mount though if you remove the diff. When you remove the center control arm caps, the triangulation is gone and the load will be fully swinging on the rubber, unless the halfshafts re still in place. When assembled more of the load is distributed in to various mounting points. Found a picture showing the three assemblies, and marked the attachment bolts. Didn't mark the halfshaft nuts and bolts. Those are somewhat time-consuming. Tight fit.

Doesn't look terrible. Says it has clean title and plates. Sounds like he might take a lower offer. You might ask about the fiberglass - " PUT THE TAILIGHTS BACK IN WITH A LITTLE FIBERGLASSING ". What are your plans is the question. Engine swap hot-rod? Restore for car shows? Ratty daily driver? Towing to Vancouver might be costly. Which Couve?

Interested in what you find with that hyper-extended shock. Good luck. Don't be nervous about disassembling/removing more than you think is necessary. Everything back there is pretty simple. I spent loads of time once trying to change a diff by removing as few parts as possible. Waste of time, I should have just dropped everything, did the swap and put it all back in. I've done the same on struts, trying to fiddle the strut out the side by loosening a few bolts instead of just dropping everything. Almost wacked myself in the face with the strut when it dropped out the fenderwell. Take the time to inspect and grease the u-joints on your half-shafts. The little plugs come out and a Zerk fitting goes in, for regreasing.

Diseazd started where you started. You might browse through his old posts. He started thinking long-stroke but ended up short-stroke instead. But many of the same questions along the way. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26395-want-to-build-a-high-performance-l28-advice-needed/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39741-new-engine/?page=1

Alrighty. Seems like L28 rods with L28 flat tops would get you where you're going. I thought that you had a complete ZX (F54) short block. A simple piston swap and you're there. I think that it's pretty well recognized that the big power increases are in head work. Porting. The stock L series heads just don't flow much air, and they don't flow it well. Some people go completely stock on the bottom end and put all of their money in to the head, the cam, and the intake and exhaust systems, flywheel and clutch, etc. I'll stop now. There are several engine builders on the forum, one just posted about his six spare engines. I'm just trying to stretch your dollars.

Are you using the longer rods with custom pistons to get a "better" rod angle? I've seen these fine detail manipulations discussed before but it seems like another cost/benefit questionable. Don't want to be a buzzkill. Just seems like the funds could have more impact elsewhere. Discuss...