Zed Head

Can't write wizz, but I can write damn.

Does the "Brake" light light up when the key is On, but engine not running? If it doesn't the Check Relay is not checking. I have a 76 and I've tried all of the schemes and fixed the problem with the atlanticz scheme. I just did the swap about five years ago. Etiquette.

It's called F and N on externally regulated alternators. L and S on internally regulated. Diagrammed out with good illustration in the 1982 280ZX Electrical chapter. You're repeating already stated facts. Might read through previous posts first, it will keep things clearer. The zcarcreations wiring scheme screws up the proper operation of the Brake light in the dash. It's different from the atlanticz scheme.

To be sure - did you connect L to the positive side of the battery? Is it a new or rebuilt alternator or used? Are you sure that it's in good shape? Have you confirmed that the alternator case has a good gorund circuit to the negative post of the battery? Power to L should have caused charging, even higher than 14+ volts because you didn't have "S" connected. I would get the meter out and check grounds and power sources. Make sure that everything that is supposed to be there is actually there, power and ground-wise.

That would be "L". There might even be an L molded in to the case. The atlanticz method should work fine, but it will leave that relay powered with the key off. 12.5-13.0 volts isn't enough info and engine RPM is important. All of the Z and ZX alternators are low on output at low engine RPM. You need to raise RPM and see if voltage increases to ~13.8 - 14.4 (around there) volts. If your battery is weak it will suck up the current at low RPM also. So if you did the wiring yesterday and the relay was activated overnight your battery is depleted. You can unplug the brake check relay with no problems. The charge light won't work when you remove the jumpers because that's where the power source for the charge light is. Edit - actually it might not be the source, just the ground circuit. Either way, you need the jumpers. Anyway, you might rejumper it and measure voltage at higher RPM.

I found a whole bunch of stuff on the internet devoted to bashing NBC for this, after I posted. It really is the old old TV model. Bob Costas looked like a tiny old man sitting next to some of those young blond swimmers, interviewing them. They couldn't even get a camera angle right.

Kind of looks like Mr. Isky doesn't really give a squat about the old Datsuns. His money is probably in all of those thousands of Chevys out there.

"F" terminal on the alternator? Internally regulated alternators don't have an F. They have an L. Maybe you got the wrong alternator. 76 also has the brake warning lamp check relay wired in to the regulator circuit. It's not addressed in the atlanticz writeup,which he wrote for a 77. It's on here somewhere, I wrote about it years ago.

Already linked in Post 14. Not competing, just saying...let's not wear any ruts.

Did you download from here? And are you looking in the Body Electrical chapter? FSM stands for Factory Service Manual, is that what you mean by Field Service? Just trying to figure out what you're looking at. With a meter and the diagrams it shouldn't be too difficult to figure things out. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/9-factory-service-manuals/ There's this one also - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

Thanks GK. I don't think that one product would be enough for a business though. Plus I didn't keep the jigs, which were a patio expansion crack and a saw kerf in a log. And a spare parts car in the garage for trial fittings. I did it mainly for the challenge and because the new rubber stock mount was $70. I think that somebody with a big metal brake could pop out one piece steel mounts that would use the four mounting holes in the body. No welding, just two bends and five or six drilled holes, depending on GM mount or snubber..

Anybody watching the Olympics? Didn't realize how far NBC was manipulating things until I got on the old interweb and saw that Usain Bolt had won the 100 meters (sorry if you live on the West Coast and were going to watch it). Even though it's not on NBC west coast until 9:25 tonight. Sunday afternoon, perfect sports TV time and NBC thinks nobody is on the internet, or gets the same out of a taped performance as a live event. Dinosaurs.

Not clear how this halts engine install. Anyway, interesting problem. Here's the Isky page just to round things out - http://iskycams.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=959

Rising edge versus falling edge. There's a setting for it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm Might be GK has already moved on from the BMW parts though. Said he's buying a new sensor but didn't say if it was Bimmer or DIYAutotune. You can also use a GM HEI module to convert the VR signal to a square wave.

The diagram shows a G/W and a B/W. But, either way, that kind of shows that current flow has an effect. If you had them switched from correct then you would have had more current than design, since the resistor is not used for Starting. You probably had Start switched with Run. Too much current kept your tach from working. Maybe.

Didn't know you were using the 3 ohm coil. There's a newer version that doesn't need it, the Ignitor II, that is more of a high energy system and would pass more current through the tach circuit. Sounds like there might be other wires involved? Auto, dual point, relay? Maybe it's more than just a ballast bypass.? Does the tach do anything at all that indicates there's power running through it? Any twitching? ,

You can't wire the ballast back in, to check? Should be simple to do and not hurt anything. Maybe you have too much current through the tach circuit. If so, a parallel circuit might get it back working but still get high current through the ignition circuit. Train driver CO or Steve J might know for sure, among others.

One problem here is that you don't know if the card is wrong or the cam. If Isky sent you their L480 card, then it will be the same card you get from anyone out here. They probably just a file that says "L480 grind" on a computer and print copies out. Or just copy an old card from the 70's on their copy machine. Might not tell you much. Are you saying that you have two cam cards now from Isky that say "L480" but have different numbers? How about taking some pictures and posting them? How far off are the numbers and in what way? What kind of degree wheel are you using? Is it an actual wheel or tape on the damper?

It would be fun to just show up and see if people who could guess who you are by the way you talked and acted. Colliding worlds and all. Of course, some of us would have to keep our hands in our pockets.

Is it just me or is the site's appearance subtly changing on a regular basis? Or am I getting some sort of contact high from Cliff and Mark?

Somebody once said that he drove a train. Maybe light-rail? Electrical?

You're right, I accidentally ran the magnifier over it on his site and you can see the fibers. Leather sounds tougher though. That other one sure does look like a timing belt though. I was just joking around,