Zed Head

Are you confusing Water Wetter with the Evans system? You can mix Water Wetter with antifreeze. http://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/conversion-installation/ https://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter Tech Info.pdf

Are you using the 280ZX TB just because it's off the car and easy to work on, for installing the TPS? Or is there another reason? The 280ZX TB is actually smaller in diameter than the 280Z TB. Which is odd because, as many know, the ZX engine is rated at higher HP (calculation formula change and all of that). Anyway, the hose to the ZX TB is smaller than the one to the Z, in case you weren't aware. Might help make your AFM decision.

You can spend 300-$400 for a good carburetor. So if that's not included, add that in. It's pretty simple to convert though. The EFI harness is separate from the man harness so all you do is disconnect it at the battery. I think that you might need to work up some throttle linkage. Cable is common. The pump would just be a common low pressure carb pump, replacing the EFI pump. Make up a list for both systems to see where the dollars balance out.

Last comment - I read a few more web pages. If I were doing what you're dong I'd find out what all four of those pins do. Could be that you need both L and F to get things correct for the CS144. Edit - just saw somebody say the "F" stands for Failure indication to the ECU. Kind of fits the wiring image above. They're mostly all saying also that the the L circuit in the alternator is low resistance and the wire needs outside additional resistance, to avoid overheating/failure. So, add a resistor the L wire and you should be in business. Edit 2 - way down this page the guy, who seems to know some things, says the resistor is used in a parallel line. This actually makes more sense. People may just be warping and assuming things they read, in their head. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/ I'd just measure resistance on the L to case circuit myself, and if it's above 50 ohms wire it up and run it.

Just for fun you could measure resistance from the L pin to the alternator case (ground). If there's 50 ohms or so, then the whole "need resistor" thing might be bogus. Madelectrical seems to be the only site saying it's needed. Sometimes things can get parrotted all over the internet if they're said with authority. An exclamation point has amazing power. !

I'll bet the diagrams they used for the Z are from passenger cars and trucks that don't have a fancy ammeter, but that did have a light. Looked again and it does look like the W to the regulator, which would be the original L (BW at the alternator) wire, comes directly from the fusible link. So it's a direct 12 volts, no resistance. If the GM guys say you need a resistor you probably better install one.

Looks like L comes through the ammeter shunt. Probably some resistance there. Where's the electrical guys? I'll step away......... Edit - I think the above is wrong. The 260Z diagram is hard to trace, all black and white.

And the link that Steve showed is for 280Z's. Better be careful.

I forgot about that. It's funny though, the wiring diagram shows a bulb in the circuit, before the regulator. Excerpt below from 1973. One of the pre-voltmeter people would know more.

Here's that reference. It's not very good, since it's really referencing voltage drop. Actually it doesn't make much sense. It's for the CS130, which is what Steve linked you to. If that application worked, yours probably will be fine. http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ONLINETECH/CS130DREG.html

The bulb in the L wire on your car is a resistor. I have read though that the CS alternators don't like too much current on the L wire. I'll see if I can dig up the reference. I searched "cs144 pin out" and looked at images.

The wiring diagram shows an EGR relay wire that's BW, in that area. Does the wire have power with the key On? And the 1976 wiring diagram shows a condenser attached to the Ballast, like yours is now. Could be that's not even an ignition system wire.

"Spitronic"? Is "spit" the way "injection" translates from Dutch? @ ing superlen... @superlen He might be out there. Once you're free of OEM EFI box you'll be looking for more power. Cams, head work, yada yada...

Just found this on the old interweb. #35. "F" is probably for monitoring alternator condition. You need to use "L". I'd guess. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=528474&page=2

Did you measure voltage at the two T plug wires to be sure it's there? Key On. And where did you get the diagram for the CS144 plug? If you're only using two, maybe F is the wrong one on your CS144.

The blower and signals seem to share a fusible link. Can't tell which one, they're not labeled in the diagram. Probably Acc. Check those connections.

Looks like he crashed in to that wall and just left it. Free quarter panel and roof, but they look fine in the pictures. It's an odd one, the buyer will be basically buying it for the low VIN. HLS30-00932 - $8000

Seems like fun entertainment. I've had those kinds of problems before. They're fun until they leave you stranded somewhere. Or you get an expensive ticket for failure to signal. Feelings will only get you so far. If you're lucky the final fail will be close to home. Good luck.

You could browse the wiring diagram, or the smaller versions in the Electrical chapters. Wiggle some wires in the meantime. Loose connections might be the cause of all of your problems.

Cool. Thanks Chas. Much easier to find now. I "commented" in the Download area and linked back to this thread, for the back-story..

I've found that is you want a photo, people are more likely to get one for you if you provide one yourself, first. An even exchange. Aside from that, it doesn't really matter as long as the electrical circuit is connected to the coil's positive post. Use a meter and make sure that the B/W wire is actually connected to the positive post.

The outer holes, or slots, aren't very accurately placed. I've dinked around with several manifolds. Even with the three center bolts in, the manifold has a bit of wiggle room. The curved surface of the clamping washer seems designed to take up the misalignment. Good luck. There's not much room to work in there. The sleeve idea is a good one, maybe you can jam it to one side to center over the stud remnant. If I was going to do another I'd try that.

Forgot to say, one sign is that the tach needle doesn't follow engine speed exactly. So if you see that needle jump but don't hear the engine speed up...not good.

The tach behavior is a sign that the igniton module might be going bad. You might try the GM HEI swap. It's cheap and you can actually do a temporary install by the coil to check it out. If you want to do a clean permanent install, check this thread out.