Zed Head

Take off the radiator cap and take a picture of the coolant. Just to be sure that there is coolant now.

Look through the articles in the link below. Check the actual plastic on the rollers in the various channels,it can break off or split in to pieces and leave the center pin looking normal.. Check the plastic guides, make sure the adjustment bolts aren't moving in their slots. The fact the front of the window drops implies that one of the plastic rollers is broken and has too much play in its guide. Actually, put "door" in the search box on the Articles page. The cookies won't allow me to save the results page. http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/

Is the BAT car connected to this car? Just wondering. Still sitting at $18,750. 3 days left.

It looks almost identical to the BAT car in the other thread. Except for the bumpers.

Have you had the door cards/panels off? There are many parts inside that get gummed up or misaligned or break, affecting all of the problems you described..

Maybe just the weird price, $4082, and its lowness. If you do a search on the image though some odd things come up. Right click on the image in the ad and Google it. http://240zforsale.com/1973-detroit-metro-michigan/

Battery acid is a very good conductor. When it ate through the insulation and contacted the wires it short-circuited them. You need to split the insulation off of the wires, make sure the copper is intact, clean them up with water (maybe with a little baking soda to neutralize the acid), dry them, and re-insulate them. You can use electrical tape (if you do it right), or you can cut them, install shrink tubing, reconnect them, and shrink the tubing over the exposed wire. Easier than it sounds, with the right tools. Tape probably isn't a great way to do it because the wires are in a bad place and will probably get wet. The fusible link did its job when the sort circuit happened. Fix the short circuit, then replace the link. "B" is just the color. Black. "Acc" means Accessory, which is the circuit that your blower motor and other things are on.

You could tell a little more about your car if you wanted more specific advice. It looks like you're at the "nothing happens when I turn the key on" stage.

The auto parts store. Seriously. Get fusible links from MSA. You can get cables there too. Get a meter while you're there so you won't have to guess. Not kidding. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic12h01e

There's a bunch of products designed specifically for fuel tanks. The putty is probably easier to use, the two part common JB Weld will run if it's not supported or in a thin film. https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/radiator-tank-repair/permatex-fuel-tank-repair-kit/ https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/radiator-tank-repair/permatex-fuel-tank-repair/

The horn and the clicking relay just sound like low voltage being supplied, probably because the engine was about to die while you were laying on the horn with the brakes applied. I had a similar problem when I was getting my engine parts all back to good working order. Used to happen when the engine was cold as I approached the first stop sign out of my neighborhood. Turn up your idle speed and adjust the dash pot so that when you let the throttle pedal up the engine speed doesn't drop so fast.

You did the common two variable experiment. Changed two things at once, confounding the results. Maybe it's the rack bushings. You didn't mention your steering wheel either. I think that all you can get out of these discussions is that it's not just one thing. You have to look at the path from road to hands and make your choices.

I bought one of MSA's packages of bushings years ago, on sale, and the only ID of manufacturer inside was an instruction sheet from Ground Control. So assume that my coupler is from GC. I haven't noticed any harshness at all, just a tighter feel at the wheel. I'm running 205/70-14 tires. Low profile tires could have a big affect on the problem. I also have an old worn-out spongy steering wheel cover. I imagine that a nice wood wheel would transmit the harshness also. I don't wear gloves though. Another factor.

$18,750, 4 days left.

It's not the material itself that matters, it's the properties of the material. Rubber can be made rock-hard also. https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/whiteline-steering-coupler-kit-w11044-datsun-240z-260z-280z/

I see the 350 V8 and rebuilt transmission but no details. There's a knob with a shift pattern so maybe it's a 4 speed? A manual trans V8 swap is worth more than an automatic, I'd say, and there's a whole range of 350's out there, from "dogs" to high performance. Add some detail. $13,000 is on the high end.

What's kind of funny here is that the market should, logically, be flooded with 1973 240Z's based on this single auction. Most 1973 240Z owners would be making a big profit, from what I've gathered. The 73 is the least desirable of the early Z's due to the smog equipment. Right? Maybe it's the Z's time in the spotlight.

Oops. Apparently SCRAAPYDO may not be the seller. Although he sells more than the seller does. Maybe it's on consignment. Dec 14 at 3:05 PM RWAuto (The Seller) 2 @jas280z we won’t charge any additional dealer fees, we’re a small time dealer, the buyer is responsible for the taxes and licensing in their state. thanks

The comments are interesting. At least two CZCC members. I think that SCRAPPYDO s the seller. He comments like one. $30K show car! Win prizes! Dec 13 at 11:26 AM SCRAPPYDO 1,212 Well we have seen them come and go lately, right! This one here is a peach of a car. The modification of the bumpers and the carbs should scare nobody. Those are easily remedied if a show car is what you want. The car has been massaged by the current owner to be driven and enjoyed. The only thing I would probably do is add a set of 15″ panasports and some more aggressive rubber, but not roll your fenders aggressive. Nice ride and grip that would not overwhelm the chassis. As presented this is a turn key car show winner. I fully expect to see that one go past 30k.

Post #208, first picture. Loosen hose clamps (turn screw counterclockwise), pry off hose, stick something in hole, put hose back on, tighten hose clamps (turn screw clockwise). I was going to also suggest Vise Grips if there is a longer section of hose that you can clamp. As a test. http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-long-nose-locking-pliers-with-wire-cutter

Hey, just to be clear, the EFI harness is almost completely separate from all of the other harnesses. That's why the Engine Fuel chapter, with it's diagram of the sub-harness is a good place to start. You can swap in the EFI harness without messing with alternator harness, for example. The bigger diagrams will show wire colors for doing actual work but the basics are in the small diagram. Some of the bigger diagrams are also on the CZCC forum. Also, I just remembered that my 1978 parts car had the AFM fuel pump relay switch even though the EFI harness didn't use it. It was there but not used. It worked fine I used the AFM for quite a while in my 1976 car. Much simpler to use the 1977 wiring and just change a few small things, than to try to swap the 78 wires in, I'd think. Good luck and don't assume that ugly wire splices are from a PO. Nissan used some nasty looking crimped connections. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

A simple way to accomplish the objective would be to find a ball bearing or short stud that will fit inside the short section of rubber hose, but not in to the metal nipples the hose attaches to. Remove one end of the hose, insert the plug, reattach the hose. The flow is blocked and the original sealing surfaces are maintained for no leakage.

It says $15,250 now. Withdrawn bid? It's in the "Good" zone. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1973-Datsun-240Z

The 77 parts will run the 78 engine just fine. If you can go back, that might be the way to do it. 78 used a different fuel pump control system, and EFI power relay. That's the main difference you need to deal with. It's not really connected to the dash harness although some wires might be in similar locations. You can work around the fuel pump power control if you need to use the 78 AFM. Download the two FSM's and compare the wiring diagrams in the Engine Fuel chapters. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

The 77 parts will run the 78 engine just fine. If you can go back, that might be the way to do it. 78 used a different fuel pump control system, and EFI power relay. That's the main difference you need to deal with. It's not really connected to the dash harness although some wires might be in similar locations. You can work around the fuel pump power control if you need to use the 78 AFM. Download the two FSM's and compare the wiring diagrams in the Engine Fuel chapters. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/