Zed Head

It actually does look like it could be essentially a nice collection of rare and interesting parts. The engine has some history behind it. Good old Wikipedia - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_S20_engine Has some similarities to cars like the Super Bird. Racing rules drove the factories to make some unique vehicles, so there's the racing history behind the car also. People who race cars generally have lots of extra money. Partially explains the high value. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plymouth_Superbird Derek's making a more modern head for the L series. Cheaper than a Z432. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119641-twin-cam-head-for-the-l6-from-derek-at-datsunworks/

Mike deletes a lot of my stuff also. I'm not sure he really sees or has an opinion on the issues, I think he just sees the personalities. Blue and HS30-H have favored status. And it is Mike's site, so free speech isn't even an issue for discussion. Mike can do what he wants with it.

Deleted. I think I was on-point but it's already established knowledge. Mike should have stepped in at "dimwit". We have a new Tony D in our midst. Thanks for the "like" grannyknot. Best to just move on with the light sarcasm and easy discussion this thread was meant to foment. If HS30 gets his bloomers in a wad that's his problem.

Value is in the eye of the beholder. The only reason to call somebody a dimwit, implying that you are smarter than they are, is because you are insecure about your own opinions. Instead of arguing the point, you make an ad hominem attack on the person. It's a form of weakness, in mind and personality. Explain why the car is more valuable to you, and leave the personal comments out. Show some knowledge instead of pretending that you know something. Show us that you're actually an intellectual and not a pretender. It's easy for people who really know what they believe, difficult for people who just want to feel superior. And for you Mike, this not abusive behavior. I know you like to please the guys who actually own "classics" but you'll end up with a 5 person club if you're not careful. Not a lot of sell-through from those guys either, they probably don't shop on the internet.

Seems like it's time for somebody to develop the "power brake booster upgrade". Find a booster with the firewall bolt pattern and rubber seal diameter and the rest can probably be made to work. The MC could be the one that came with the booster, the hard lines would probably fit. Diameter might be off but might not be that noticeable. The attachment to the pedal might just be a clevis swap. Who knows. Seems like many people are getting the wrong bolt pattern or damaged parts anyway. I picked an example but it might not be the best, only Cardone makes a rebuilt on Rockauto. But the right chose could probably have wrecking yards full of cheap replacements. The MC is a bit odd looking too.

Saw your thread on zcar.com. The BCDD was suggested there also. But you never followed up on THE possible solution. You might have to address it if you want to solve your problem.

My "friend" in the past has been a broken shovel handle. Loosen the bleeder, press the pedal down and wedge the handle against the seat back, tighten the bleeder, let the pedal back up. Seems to work.

You could measure combustion chamber volume. It's easier than it seems, the hardest part is finding something that is graduated in cc's (Edit - actually, you can always convert any volume to cc's., So any fairly accurate liquid measuring device will work). For what you're doing you don't really need 1/10 cc'.s, 1/2's will work.

Which books? How do you know it needs a rebore? Have you checked the parts against the specs. in the FSM? There are different versions of the E88 head, Probably best to know exactly what you're working with before paying for machine work. You might decide to buy different parts.

I have to test it to failure again. Maybe even put those original transistors back in. The first time it just dropped dead within two miles then restarted a few times, enough to get closer to home. Then was totally dead. Pretty sure that I tested it again before swapping the transistors. I'm usually pretty thorough. Some day I'll just put it in the car and go hoon around in the farmlands.

They're about a zero tolerance fit. So, yes, paint in the hole would be a problem. But they should slide in, no pounding necessary.

Somebody on this site has described a way to adjust the quill from the top. I think it might have been CO. Used some sort of rubber band assembly to hold the quill up from below, then just pushed it down against the rubber with a pair of long-nose pliers off of the gear and turned it to and fro util it came up in the right spot. The short answer is - re-insert and check, with the timing pointer on zero, and the #1 piston at TDC. Best to get everything set correctly, even the cam sprocket. You could also logic it out, knowing that the distributor turns counterclockwise.

I picked up some replacements at Fry's Electronics. I used this cross-reference site to choose NTE247's. Somebody on zcar.com suggested it. 2SD411 here - http://www.nteinc.com/ http://nte01.nteinc.com/nte\NTExRefSemiProd.nsf/$all/1C29450DD0509A6185257910007F08CE?OpenDocument I think I tried the wiggling and banging when I got the car home but it was completely dead. The original ECU didn't have any problems, nor several spares I tried afterward. The cable-end connector seems fine. It was all ECU. Later I put the new transistors in and it started right up. I drove it around the block, took out the ECU and put it on the shelf. Too scary, didn't really trust the solution.. Maybe I'll put the ECU back in and see what happens. Out in the country, where the car can die in a spot I can work on it.

The 240Z's seem to have less space between diff and hub than 280Z's. 240Z people often have binding problem with u-joint halfshafts when they swap an R200 in, even though the 280Z's come with the R200 stock. The rear hubs must be thicker on the 240Z's. Beware.

I don't think a blown HG always leaks coolant in to the cylinders. But I think that if it's leaking combustion gases in to the cooling system that's easy to diagnose. I almost did the same thing you're doing. I had a 240Z picked out in California and was negotiating with the seller to pick it up. I was going to fly down and drive it back to Portland. The seller changed her mind though and I didn't get the chance. You might just have a bad gauge. If you're lucky. Good luck.

Ouch. Two hours is about Des Moines, isn't it? He has a situation. So, cruising on the freeway and the temperature shoots up? Not good. Mine did that once but it was because a heater hose split. Pretty obvious. If it went two hours, you'd think the radiator and shrouding and air flow were sufficient. Check the radiator for a plastic bag or large bird blocking air flow. Seems more likely that the head gasket is leaking tough, doesn't it?

Never realized a mistake could bring such joy. I feel like an ignorant slut.

The only arcs on a car should never be seen. Spark plugs, relays, switches. Are the arcs so big that you can see the flash from the driver's seat? That's a lot of arc.

If I read this right you're still driving the car even though it constantly "overheats". Have you verified the temperature? Maybe it's a bad gauge. How long have you had the car? If it's been fine for years then had this problem all of a sudden then a broken/malfunctioning part seems likely. The current system used to work. If it's a brand new setup then modifications might be needed.

Never mind. The point has been made, and amplified. Too bad, it was a simple question. What does legitimate mean, in the context of fixing a radiator? That's all there is to it.

Nothing.

Oh well, it was fun to do, and cheap. Good thing I was dumb or I never would have tried it. Any chance they can test fine cold but fail when current starts flowing? Edit - the main reason I even considered this was because I heard an interesting piece on NPR about how the development of transistors that could handle high voltage, or maybe it was current, allowed the development of electronic ignition. So I had transistor failure in mind. Seemed to fit the symptoms, with constant current through the (damaged) transistor causing the injectors to stay open.

Just to be clear, I'm a materials kind of guy. It's all just what it is. Metal, plastic, wood. Datsun used adhesives and sealants on the cars. They used brazing and welding. They didn't use wood but they did use plant-based materials, I think. So, we just need to define the rules, Qualifying the statement would have been appropriate. If you want to be like original then 3 rows and shrouds and JB Weld are all illegitimate. That's why it felt funny. They're all bad, unless the rules are redefined.

I'll just go to the basics. It's from Google though. So I don't know if it's legitimate. le·git·i·mate adjective ləˈjidəmət/ 1. conforming to the law or to rules. "his claims to legitimate authority" synonyms:legal, lawful, licit, legalized, authorized, permitted, permissible, allowable, allowed,admissible, sanctioned, approved, licensed, statutory, constitutional; More

What's funny is, that the broken bond is apparently a sign of originality. So, with enough pub, could be a selling point for an early 240Z. CL ads - "broken right radiator braze - original radiator!"