Zed Head

It would be nice if the pumps could be rebuilt. Typically it's just one small piece or two that fails, the seal and/or bearing. I studied the pump and kind of realized you'd need a fairly sturdy and somewhat intricate fixture to do the pressing properly.

They smell different. Engine oil usually has a little bit of a gassy smell, and has some blackish color depending n how old it is. Transmission fluid smells sulfurous and is usually still clear. Could be a bad front seal, or a bad rear seal, so either is possible.

Sorry Joseph, it must have been James that was on. I should have checked your profile. His profile says he was on here 19 hours ago. @James@TheZStore The manufacturers all say the stamped impeller is the same or better as the cast one but never show data. So it looks like just standard cost-cutting. This is the the wrong forum to mention Tony D. His abrasive forum manners aren't popular here at all. He doesn't contribute.

Don't forget that the HG is ~ 1.25 mm.

What's the big blue cube? Dinosaur alarm system? You could follow the wires from the alternator T plug back in to the harness. They should go to the regulator or to some splices where it used to be. And the internally regulated alternators have an "S" and an "L" molded in to the case by the T plug.

The piston pop-up is normal. About 020", or 0.5mm. The observation crops up here and there, for stock engines. Doesn't seem to be spec'ed out anywhere but many people see it.

Most polyester/glass systems are designed to be laid down on a solid substrate, that you can really put some force on to, like a mold or surfboard. There is a whole variety of rollers and spatula-type tools for pressing the thick resin in to the glass fibers. Even with a vacuum bag there is lots of pressing and squeezing on top of the bag material to move the resin around. Sometimes, what is called a "bag" is actually a plastic sheet with putty around the edges to form a seal. A vacuum tube is sealed in at an edge to pull the air out. You also need a catch jar or can to separate resin that gets sucked in to the tube from air that goes through the pump. There's some tricks and art involved. The main reason for the bag is to keep the glass mat from lifting up from the mold surface. Something like this might be a good material for what you're doing. It's intermediate between the tough resin/mat that you're using and brittle body filler. http://bondo.com/bondo-hair-long-strand-fiberglass-reinforced-filler-762.html#do8AAOJHRDtQQCJK.97 Body filler uses inorganic fillers, but these long fibers provide real strength. This looks interesting too - http://bondo.com/bondo-self-adhesive-patch-932.html#740gOEJz8Mh1JlOK.97 And, the solvent-like material in the polyester resin is styrene. It's like toluene in its solvent powers. Which would be about like gasoline. Did not intend to write all of that....

Thanks Mike. I had intended to browse though those Conditions to see what I was missing. I have followed your advice re a post, with two items specifically called out. Appreciate it. The internet can be difficult.

I think that what's really going on here is that there are a few people who feel a bit lonely that other people don't appreciate the value of what they have. Everyone agrees that you can't define value for other people. You just can't, it's up to the individual. fF a person doesn't like something that's their prerogative. But this whole thread is an attempt to sway other people's opinions. But it's having the opposite of the intended effect. Calling somebody a dimwit because they don't feel the way that you do is like calling someone an idiot because their favorite color is different from yours, or because they don't like tea. It's irrational.

Really, it's just that I called out somebody for name-calling yet the name-calling is still there. And the point of the thread (this is on-topic) was to have a little bit of fun with incomprehensible valuations. Who really understands being able to spend $225,000 on a single car? It started out as fun and went south with one single post. Let's be clear.

Mike, people have seen my posts, the ones you keep deleting. Why do you keep deleting my rational logical statements but leave HS30's name-calling "dimwit" post? You keep saying that you're unbiased but then you keep biasing your editing. Just explain it one time on the public forum so that we all understand what's going on. You're not making sense. How is what I post different from what HS30 is posting? One simple explanation will do. I don't get it.

CO is right, don't move too fast. Collected the basics above. If you mean "starts out' from a cold engine, then the idle behavior could be your AAR working correctly as the engine warms up, with a vacuum leak that causes the low idle after the engine warms up and the AAR closes. Could also be your timing is retarded now and you didn't reset idle speed (idle speed drops as timing is retarded). Find your service manual here, and use the Engine Tuneup, Engine Fuel, and Emissions chapters to get things right. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/9-factory-service-manuals/ Forgot to say - the sensor will work fine even with a leak. Just fix the leak, not the sensor.

Put Gates and GMB side-by-side, from Rockauto. The housing is even a little different, one of the bolt reinforcements is missing. I'd probably trust Gates over GMB but still, no supporting data.

The're definitely more desirable to some people for supposed benefits. The topic rolls through often. If you look around the internet you'll find that the design of the stamped blades isn't even consistent. Some stamped steel blades might have actual engineering design efforts behind them, others might be just shaped to look right. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55214-water-pump-options-and-where-to-get/

I think that the thinking is that the cast impellers and housing are shaped to avoid cavitation at high RPM. That there's a functional reason for the thick curved blades. Simply replacing them with stamped steel without redesigning the rest of the mechanism isn't sufficient to maintain function. Don't know if it's true but the race guys even spend a lot of time trying to find the diesel water pumps, which have cast impellers and a housing design that pushes more water. The diesel pump design kind of adds weight to the argument that the pumps are not as simple as they seem.

The turbo ECU uses Pin 5 I think. But still, it kind of points to no spark, and that could be due to a bad power transistor. That's with a the 1981-1983 280ZX turbo cars. As S30Driver implies though, you might have a completely different car. Add details.

Factory specs are 248 and .413". 230 and .488" are odd numbers. Lower duration, with a mild increase in lift. Something's not right there. MSA's weakest performance cam has bigger numbers, and many say that Stage 1 isn't worth the work. Most people say to go bigger than you'd think, the Z engines like it. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2001 Browse through the specs. and descriptions of their selection - type "performance camshaft stage" in to their search box. Their cookies function won't allow a page of search items to be copied over. Their loss.

The nose of the diff lifts during acceleration then drops down when throttle is let off. The knock could be the metal on the front of the mount coming down on the cross member. If you look closely you'll see that the gap there is pretty small. There's actually a specification for the space between the top and bottom metal plates of the diff mount. Might be worthwhile to remove it and measure. You can also take a large screwdriver and pry the two plates apart while it's out to see how weak it is. You might find that it's about to fall apart. Picture from 1976, it's clearer.

Joseph from TheZstore was just on the site. Let him know. Odd that they don't show the impeller blades when it's fairly well-known that people don't like them. Needs fixing. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7021 @Joseph@TheZStore

This looks like it - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125626-trailer-experiences/

There was a whole long conversation on Hybridz about strapping the car down after getting it on the trailer. Apparently it can be difficult to get it tied down to where it won't move, since there's no frame rails to hook to. Also come good comments on placing the car so that the trailer is nose-heavy. Weight on the hitch point makes it more stable. I would think nose first. The car's about equally balanced nose to back anyway. I can't recall seeing any cars trailered backward although I'm sure t's been done. I've wondered if you could get a Z inside a box truck. Build some ramps and drive it up and in.

Hey Mike, I very subtly suggested a short while ago that somebody keep their opinions about China to themselves and not troll the forum for xenophobia and I got an Abusive Behavior warning. HS30 calls Blue and grannyknot "dimwits" directly and that's not abusive. That's where the bias charge comes from. You have subconscious favorites. Dimwits is still there. It's another name for stupid or dumb, in case it's not clear. I think that HS30 gets on the forum just to be an arrogant a s s (that's American for arse). All of the bad in this thread started from his name-calling. There's your problem. Be consistent.

A momentary switch on the stater solenoid wire would be a good theft deterrent. Hold it, start the engine, let it go. No hold, no engine turn.

I see. Some of the Rockauto pictures seem to be true to the part, where you can see the offset. Here's the Prior brand image. Out of Stock, of course. Edit - one more picture.

Does HS30 own #13? What's funny here is that these conversations will probably become part of the car's provenance. Might be degrading the value of his own car,and maybe even the value of all early Datsuns. The type of owner affects the perception of the car. Porsche owners are different from BMW owners are different from Range Rover owners. Some interesting unintended consequences. #13? Don't want it, it was owned by that guy on classiczcars.com.