Zed Head

Looks like you might be doing things on the fly. That doesn't work well for the fuel injected cars. Download the Factory Service Manual and Turbo Supplement and get things set to specification. Fuel pressure is measured in psi, and yours is waaayy high.

Did anything come though, like air, or was the line blocked? This looks like your strongest test result. Seems like there are enough clues in the thread to figure something out. If if you connected a good powerful pump to the correct line in the engine bay and got nothing through the line then there probably is a clog. If you got air you might just have an empty tank. If you could describe in detail this pumping operation you might save yourself some time. Just saying, there are small details missing that might have meaning.

"Refurbish" for old tanks often means using tank sealer to cover up rust that can't be removed and pinholes. Could be that yours wasn't fully cured and has sagged down over the outlet port. Really though, you're just going to have to do more than work with the end of the hose at the filter in the engine bay. You're just guessing at things, like gasoline solidifying in the lines. That's not going to happen, even after years. It's just a metal tank, with some holes, and some hose and metal line leading to the engine bay. You could pick any junction between the filter and tank and loosen a hose clamp and you'll know more. It will either be dry or wet.

When you connect or disconnect the negative cable at the battery do you see any sparks or hear any relays clicking? You might see the tiniest of sparks from the clock power draw but sizable sparks and/or relays clicking would show that you have something turning on that would drain your battery.

Don't forget engine movement, on rubber mounts.

Are you sure that you didn't get your vent and liquid lines mixed up? I think that there's a check valve in the vent line. There is on the 280Z's, do't know about 260Z's. And if you have an electric pump in the back it might have a check valve also. So blowing air back to the tank might be the wrong test. I'd loosen the line at the tank nipple and see if any fuel leaks out. And blow air forward.

I think that Dave WM took a switch apart and replaced the guts with a common thermal switch. @Dave WM I was suggesting that the the 280Z switch would perform the same function, just using a different ground point. Or you could replace the loop with a bullet and have the same connections. If you can find one. Good luck.

The rings should fit the groove in the piston, so 1.5mm could be right if the groove is 1.5mm. There's a spec. for side clearance. Too big and the ring will get slammed up and down as the piston moves.

Where is the Registry? Can't find a link. I'm reading different things about standard features. Don't want to load up your thread. Just asking what you're planning. texasz was last on the forum October 2015. @texasz http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104678-v8-scarab-registrationnumberinglogos/page-2

Probably depends on the vendor and how they drilled and machined the flywheel.

Found this. https://web.archive.org/web/20110415000000*/http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Scarab/ https://web.archive.org/web/20110601104437/http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Scarab/ Another - http://datsunforum.com/the-scarab-legend-the-original-hybrid-datsun-z/ Good luck.

Funny, the guy in that classiczcars.com thread, texasz, who said the information would always be available because he owned the server, apparently let it lapse. Maybe one of those wayback machines can find it. Randalla, how are you going to restore the car if you don't know how it was built? Just curious, that's why I asked about specs. Looks like somebody already took your beetle badges.

Looks like fun. Do you have any specs on the modifications? Engine, suspension, etc. And no pictures of the engine? That was a major part of the Scarab conversion I thought.

Trolls trolling the Troll thread with likes. Gotta love it. It's in the DNA.

Three gallons is not much and means more lifting effort from the pump. Any tilt and you might be off the pickup. There's a test in the FSM for fuel pump "power". Don't forget that the filter has to fill.

I have a 1976 280Z and the ignition system control switch is the two wire type, but with a loop that grounds through a bolt head instead of a bullet. The wire usually breaks off and the switch becomes worthless. The're a fairly decent picture in the Emissions chapter. Included below. I found a similar picture of a 1972 thermo housing. But they only show the sender. Pyros2, does the part you're trying to replace look like the picture you posted or are you assuming that ti does? You might be able to use the later EFI temp switch. The systems all seem to run both the EGR and the dual ignition, using a relay. The FSM range is close though, 57 - 63 F. "Warmer than cold" seems to be the goal.

I'd offer - don't get distracted "fixing" things that don't have anything to do with your problem(s). Your dying problem here seems like a large clue of some kind. If it started and ran well enough to get out of the driveway then died when you gave it some throttle, it should have started and ran again. The odds of some guy at Advance Auto actually knowing something about 1973 240Z carburetors seems astronomical. I'd guess that he just turned the big obvious knobs until something happened and tried to sound knowledgeable. I could be wrong. There's an N on your alternator indicating externally regulated. One more clue that it's stock. There's a 50 and 60 amp option according to the FSM. Your ammeter should tell you if things are okay. The fact that the battery has enough juice to start the car since you've had indicate that it's probably fine. Overall though, seems like you need a new friend. Who knows old Z cars.

The 240Z chapters say passenger room temperature. Could be one of those translation things. If the car is only driven in the summer the cold setting is probably never used, by the specs. anyway.

Just to finish the circle - how are you defining quality? That's the real question here and the difficult part. We know what looks right and we know what the factory did. We don't know much about these replacement parts. No offense, but just because you'd put one in your car doesn't really tell us much. I don't want to be negative but everybody wants MSA to be successful. The perception about the stamped steel blades is out there and will be hard to replace. Hate to see you pick a low-seller.

Looks like it's the same switch. Weird. Good luck.

I found a variety of switches out there when I was trying top put an injector cooling system together. Seemed like BMW uses several. The only reference to a switch for the EGR system in the FSM seems to be one that resides in the cabin of the car and actuates at about 30 - 52 F. Are you sure it's not for the second set of points, on a dual point distributor?

bluestechtips.com That's the first thing that pops in to anyone's head when they think of the old atlanticz site.

We shouldn't get in to politics, I think. I only described Tony D mostly for the guys at MSA. Tony D can charm people just like many people who will say whatever it takes to get their way.

That nut is hard to see. The strap probably got a workout.