Zed Head

And that's where it all goes wrong for people. They buy for a car that has probably had the clutch replaced several times. There are still kits that come with collars out there. Brute on Rockauto. At least their picture shows a collar/sleeve.

Anybody got the parts CD or fiche collection? It would be interesting to see which factory parts interchange over the years. 1974 had the non-adjustable slave rod, but it's lumped in with 1970 which has the adjustable rod. And that's the Type B and the Type A transmissions. Could be that the suppliers just don't want to get in to the interchangeability mess and are relabeling parts as different when they're not. I'd hate to be the guy on the phone trying to explain this.

Looks like a good start for a project. New parts alone add some value. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5818405698.html Don't know the person. From the ad below. His number pops up if you click Reply at the top. Let me torture somebody - @Mark Maras " Im really sad to have to sell this, and would love to put the work into it, but with school, work, and life, I just do not have the time and I would love to see someone else get this thing back on the road or use it to repair something else they've got in the works. Its a beautiful beast and I hope someone can make something of it. Im asking $750 OBO, its got basically a new set of tires on it, and Ive replaced the alternator, radiator, many hoses, and a variety of other things. I was replacing the head gasket when our wedge slipped. The tensioner gave in and now I need to go deeper in the engine, but I dont have the time or place to do it. I need to get rid of it soon so call/text me! I may be able to figure out towing options, just give me a call. "

Here's a couple of old, somewhat rambling, threads about fitting the clutch parts together. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/53029-could-it-be-a-slipping-clutch/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/47034-please-help-id-my-transmission-year-clutch-replacement-gone-sideways/

Update about the PosiQuiet ceramic pads - don't like them, replaced them with inexpensive Autozone Duralast organic pads. The PosiQuiets just seemed too slick, the bite didn't increase proportionally with pedal pressure. Kind of felt like they were slightly wet and never dried out. They looked fine when removed, as did the rotor. The Autozone pads were just the bare essentials, not even the cheap stick on shims on the back, just bare metal. Used the Nissan shims. Pretty much a basic, cheap brake job. But the brake feel is back, and they're quiet.

Not to butt in, but until it's seen you can't really tell which pressure plate and collar you have. Everything from 70-83 is interchangeable, and there's a lot of aftermarket possibilities. The adjustable slave rod goes with the fork with a hole in it, so he could have a 280Z clutch with 240Z fork and slave rod. So many combinations possible... The engines been modified for power. Wouldn't be a surprise to find a CenterForce clutch in there.

Mazda's on the "This part of the business..." page. Odd that they don't have a click-through to more details (found some stuff, see below). I'd only use a credit card and contest the purchase if it didn't show up in a timely fashion. Could be bankruptcy and that can take a lot of other peoples' money with it. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ Edit - Found some stuff - https://www.facebook.com/BlackDragonAuto/ http://www.powerofthedragon.com/?utm_source=Facebook&utm_campaign=FB_Farewell_SOC&utm_medium=Social&utm_content=Farewell#welcome

Surface preparation is key. especially on cured paint. You'd want to find a good shop and let them know what kind of paint you had sprayed and what you've done to it since. If you've used certain waxes to shine it up it might not be a good candidate anymore for a clear coat. But it is done in the repair business, so the expertise is out there. Look through some of these videos. https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=dq5PVNe5B8j8igLU9ICABg&ved=0CAMQ1S4#q=clear+coat+automotive&tbm=vid

Most new cars today have a clear coat on top of the color coat. It adds a lot of depth and shine and holds it even as it gets dirty. So if you're comparing yours to a new car's paint job, a single coat can't really compete. A clear coat on top of what you have would help, and might not cost much. Stick a piece of clear packing tape on to a hidden spot and you'll see the effect. Hidden, just in case you can't get it off.

Don't the friction materials char and glaze after a few extreme slippages? The flywheel can heat check too. Clutch and transmission problems tend to make people angry, which leads to cursing, abuse, and more problems. The reverse problem could just be a simple hydraulics need bleeding problem.

What's wrong with it?

Why replace the HG? Lost track of the original problem. Make sure to study the dirty parts before you clean things up. Clues.

Pretty sure it's fairly easy to scale the injector duration up after you correct the injector flow rate. There might even be an auto-scale function in MS. The one thing that everyone who runs Megasquirt eventually agrees on, is that every map is different. But really, this is not a Megasquirt forum. Madkaw is the only guy on here that is using it I think. You want to be on Hybridz.org or one of the Megasquirt support forums. This site is good for everything else though.

The turbo is not really the issue since all it does is change intake manifold pressure. It's the ignition system, injectors, sensors, etc., that matter. If you have the same components as a turbo engine but no turbo then a map for a turbo engine will probably work fine. Megasquirt will never use the boost part of the map. You just need a list of the parts controlling the engine to find the right map, for starters.

Check the vacuum hose that attaches to the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) for liquid fuel. It might be leaking. The rubber diaphragm inside can fail. And I think that you're measuring the temperature sender, not the sensor. There are pictures in the Service Manual. Go to the site Download area and download the Factory Service Manual (not Chilton's or Haynes, but Nissan) and the Electronic Fuel Injection Guide. Read Engine Fuel and run the tests shown n the Guide.

Sounds more like percolation, I think. Basically, fuel getting too hot in the carbs and forcing/finding its way out unmetered, adding extra fuel, I believe. Still heat-related, so the rubber lines Jeff G described should help. Progress! It's been discussed before, part of the saga. Might even be in previous pages of this thread. Here's Nissan's take on it. - http://xenonzcar.com/s30/files/1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf That document is on the CZCC site also -

madkaw has Megasquirt. @madkaw

Maybe they'll have second thoughts, after seeing the rush to buy before they shut the the Z section down. They seemed a bit behind the times, with their copied paper catalog pages on their web page. Although, ironically, the other big vendor is going back to phone-in orders since the internet order system doesn't seem to work for them. Amazon and Rockauto type web sites must be hard to create.

Edited - Never mind. Made no sense at all. Just throwing out some ideas. I see some rust on a few of the head bolts. I think that dowels are close to the water passages. Rust grows when it forms, making things tight. And the head bolt that broke might have bent in to the head a bit when it twisted, causing a side load.

zKars' block of wood and a sledge is a good idea. Won't hurt, the wood is soft. I can't remember but I think it might have been part of my "work it off" procedure. My engine was out, on the floor though, so easy to maneuver around. Take a picture of all 14 bolts. We'll count them for you, just to be sure.

Mine wouldn't budge either, one of the center bolts broke off and rust had packed the cavity. Once I got a small gap though I worked it off. Took time. That's why I asked if there were any gaps. If there's a gap between head and block then it's probably not the gasket sticking, it's the locating dowels or a broken bolt. If there's no gap at all between head and block then it might be glued on. If there is even a hint of a gap you can squirt carb cleaner or rusted thread breaker in the gap and let it work. Actually you can do it anyway because there should still be some small passages that will wick in some solvents. Even if they don't dissolve the sealant they might swell it and loosen it it up. If you keep with the lever in the ports, you might want to loosely install some head botls like sb suggested. So if it breaks free from sealant it doesn't cause any damage, or you don't get damaged yourself.

Put it back together without the head bolts and start it up. That should pop it loose.

Where's the link? Is it for sale? Looks like it still has some good parts.

Were any of them rusty? Rust can lock things up. And there are some dowels around a couple of the bolts that can be tight. If you get any tiny gap at all you might try a lever on each end and slowly working/rocking it off. And you can get small plastic wedges from harbor freight to hold any gaps open. Don't stick anything metal n the gap.

Not trying to start an argument, but really, the whole experience of selling the car should be considered. The big auctions are kind of like parties or events that people attend. Having a car for sale and seeing all of the other cars might be worth the fees, and expense of getting the car to the show. Selling the car to an overseas buyer might be fun just for the challenge of getting it done. https://www.carbuyingtips.com/articles/blog/guide-to-the-barrett-jackson-auctions.htm On the other hand you could go like a certain family member of mine who likes a transaction as hassle-free as possible. A sign with a very low price in the windshield of the car, at the end of the driveway. No phone calls, no traveling, the sale is final, no negotiating and no complaints because the price is so low. People just stop in, pay the price and it's gone.