Zed Head

The dash pot is easy to adjust, just loosen the big lock nut on the top and turn the whole thing in. Watch the tach needle to see if adjustment will help. If the needle drops like a rock and bounces off 500 or so before rising up to your set point then an adjustment will probably help. If it drops slowly to the set point it's already good. If you have your idle speed set too low you can get dying when the engine is cold also. Try raising idle speed 100 RPM. The fuel pump control relay looks at alternator charging and oil pressure, both affected by idle speed. It's bypassed at Start.

The guys doing restorations might be interested. Otherwise, the later models have better shifting and the ratios fit the diffs that are available. Plus the extra 5th gear.

I think that many forum people call those "competition" 5 speeds. Or comp or direct drive. Good luck.

What is an option 2 transmission?

Take a shot at describing exactly what happens again. It might help you understand the problem and will give people out here better clues. The whole thread is kind of vague - "really hard", "crap out", etc. Just trying to think of the right words to use will make things clearer for you.

EuroDat had a problem and improvised a fix. There are also several other manufacturers that used AFM's, like Toyota, BMW, Mercedes (edit- maybe not MB, they used the D-Jet), Volvo. All licensed the EFI technology from Bosch so probably used very similar parts.

Somewhere on the next to the ring gear you'll find 39 and another number stamped beside it. Like 39:11. Looks like a run-of-the-mill open R200 with 3.54 ratio. Could also be a 3.9, from a later model 280ZX.

Do you have a plain old timing light? Just to get your initial timing right. You're spending a lot of time on a simple thing. Or just set it to zero, where it flashes intensely, and use the third mark on the pulley.

I have a 1995 Pathfinder with 248,000 miles on it. Just kidding.

This picture is from the 1973 FSM. Yours is close. Here's a good old thread with more numbers. But yours isn't there. Mike, Walter's thread would be a good one for the knowledge Base. @Mike

Here's an old picture I had of an R200. You can just see the rectangular piece of aluminum molded in to the bottom of the cover. And you can see the rounded corners.

Looks to me like your float hanging brackets are bent. Like somebody twisted the float. Pretty sure that they should be straight. As I understand dial-back timing lights, they always flash just like a regular light. The dial is turned until the flashes happen at the zero mark on your crank pulley. The number you read on the dial is the timing advance. But they always flash. Or you can set the dial to desired advance and move the distributor until the flash happens at zero. You can also set the dial to zero and just use the marks on the pulley if you want to. So it's not really clear what you're measuring. Could be a technique error.

Interesting thread and stories for sure. But you've told more about other cars and other engines than the one you asked about. You asked for an opinion on what the 1970 240Z is worth, I think, but it's still not clear what it is. Not trying to negatize your thread, just saying there's not much about the actual car you asked about. I added a detail and removed one below. 1970 240Z Raced by friend of Bob Sharp. 41K miles newer model 5 speed flairs? real louvers and an old style bar come with it but need bolting down 2.4 BRE motor with BRE covers and comp cams. yellow paint

Is it a track car or a show car? Has it been on a track, in a race? Who built the car? Not clear what it is. Sounds like the picture you posted isn't of the car you're describing. I summarized your ad below - 1970 240Z 41K miles newer model 5 speed Huge TR8 Group 44 flairs real louvers and an old style bar come with it but need bolting down 2.4 BRE motor with BRE covers and comp cams. yellow paint

And no photos.

The vane scraping is bad and could cause fueling problems. Sticking open will make it run rich. There's a backfire relief valve in the vanes of later model AFM's so the vane doesn't get bent. It is a thing. The 228 and 128 aren't terrible. Not clear the the AFM is worthless although it does need attention. I'd tweak the vane until it moves freely. Check the counterweight on the other side also. The little bullet might be to the condenser/capacitor also shown in your picture. The 5-sided box is the junction box for the wires from the distributor to the ignition module in the cabin. If you don't have wires from the distributor there you might have an ignition module modification. The white doohickey is a test port, for the BCDD I think (Emissions chapter).

Did you?

Easier to just look at the rear cover, or the area around where the axles insert. The R200 has a rectangular chunk of aluminum, about 1/2" by 1", underneath the drain plug and the cover is almost round. The R180 is smaller and has a rectangular rear cover. It also has a ring of bolts around the axles holes, where the R200 does not. Look at some images on the internet and you should be able to tell with a glance. If your 75 is a manual transmission coupe it's almost certainly an R200. Or you could post a picture and we'll just tell you what it is.

Looks like it would clean up well. The bumper rubber looks in pretty good shape, probably protected from the sun by fir and pine needles. Looks like it's been painted, so could be hidden repairs. They say it needs a tuneup so they probably started it. After sitting twenty years who knows what got dragged through the engine when they did that. Still, not bad.

You don't have a timing light? Who rebuilt the engine? Are the fender wells cut under those flares or are the flares just attached on top of the stock body? Also, it says complete interior but there's no carpet. Do you have the bumpers? And what's going on with the key hole? Questions that come to mind...

The MSD and the ZX are probably about the same at higher RPM, like 3000 and above. The MSD's multiple sparks can help at idle and low RPM, especially with an engine designed for high RPM power.

Do the resistance and voltage testing at the ECU connector before you get too crazy with cleaning. After the cleaning, you'll get the satisfaction of knowing you made something better or the agony of knowing that you broke something that was fine. Both good reasons to have a beer.

I'm no web programming wiz but if I "inspect" the video it shows as an HTML thing, with lines of code that say "js context". Made an image of how the video just inserts itself in to the middle of a paragraph. If you're moving down the page the text will all shift downward as the video ad shoves its way in to your life. I might start sending nasty messages to the companies that use the ads. One small blow to save the world. By "adware package" do you mean what's commonly called malware? Are you in advertising? Are you part of this!!! Anyway, I haven't found a plug-in or program that will stop just the ads but allow other desirable things to work.

I wouldn't worry too much about where the distributor adjustments are, if the timing light shows you're right. All you care about is when the spark happens, not where the nuts and bolts are. Each mark is 5 degrees so the third should be 10. 10 degrees of advance will give you a faster stronger idle than zero. Get that set and see if you can get it to idle on its own. Then you can tweak and tune to make it work better.

10 degrees is a good starting point. Zero is not the best. Sounds like you have the right idea though. Get the ignition timing right, then focus on the carbs. But even there, if once carb doesn't have fuel, that's kind of a "needs to be fixed" thing right off the bat. I'd focus on getting the carb to function properly (gas in the bowl), and setting the timing to 10 degrees. That's a "should idle" point, then build off of that. As far as setting timing, even if you have to squirt starting fluid and rev the engine up and down, you should be able to see where the low point is. Set it to 10 and assume that it's right. Sometimes you have to make an assumption and work with it for a while.