Zed Head

Actually, what you want is an R200 insulator for a 280Z. If you're installing an 86 300ZX R200 diff in your 72. (Assuming that you have the mustache bar). One option - https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-insulator-diff~55415-n4300.html Part #16. I don't know why there are so many revisions for the part. Maybe because the early designs used weak rubber? Who knows. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/16

There's some good AAR stuff in here -

There's a "pre-muffler" that looks like a converter. It's there to cancel out droning from the exhaust system. Looks like a converter but it's not. There should be a sticker. A clogged muffler would be like a clogged converter though. So maybe...

There's a sticker on the driver's side door jamb that will tell if you have a converter. It was California only in 1976 so you might not have one. I think Nissan called it a Catalyst back then. Mine says NON-CATALYST. Are you saying that engine won't even start now?

But the one you unplugged was the messed up one, right? I think that Dave might be the other guy that could have unplugged his BCDD. Some day I'll unplug mine and see what peahens (picked the wrong suggestion. You know what I mean).

I think that the proposal is (at least mine was) that disconnecting the wire would change the quantity of air bypassing the throttle blade. Significantly enough that it would change idle RPM. Not while driving but while sitting in neutral. Unplug wire idle changes, plug it back, it changes back. It was just a thought that it might be one cause of the BCDD causing a high or a low idle. The "relaxation" that you feel is the fuel coming back on at 2800 RPM. All the car reviewers hated it.

Now you can take the old one apart and see if a diaphragm is blown or the vale is just clogged or stuck. So, to summarize - you swapped an 80 BCDD,with no solenoid, in place of a 79 BCDD that had one. So now you're using a BCDD with no speedometer control. It's parts car anyway, but curious... Don't forget to inspect the 79 distributor breaker plate and bearings. If you get there soon enough you might be able to save the bearing cage before it breaks.

That's one of those interesting things. They stopped using the solenoid in 1980. Looks like they only referenced one side of the blade also. A new puzzle. In 1981 they put the BCDD on the bottom of the intake manifold. Seems like they never quite got it where they liked it. Some designs last for years,like the AAR. This is the problem with the BCDD - you can get drawn in and spend a lot of time here, for little value. Like eating celery.

So if the pin is retracted, in it's normal position with the key On (the click you hear when you turn the key On) and at a stop, you would expect a small amount of air to bypass the blade. But that extra air is normally present and baked in to idle speed adjustment. If the wire is disconnected the pin blocks the passage and idle speed should drop a small amount since that extra air is gone. Does that follow? I should be able to go out and disconnect the power wire and see a drop in idle speed. If you have an idle, at a stop, that's stuck high, it seems to also follow that it's probably the main air bypass, designated by the arrows in the picture, that is stuck open allowing air through. Or a hole in a diaphragm, or the main valve n the BCDD is stuck. Seems like there are two normal ways for air to get through the BCDD, the little control passage and the main bypass passage, and one abnormal way, a hole. I've never thought the idle hanging problem through completely, I just refer to what other people said.

Major edit, too many words. Wouldn't disconnecting the power and unscrewing the adjustment screw remove it's ability to change function. Making it a permanent throttle blade bypass? Like the idle air bypass, Readjust the idle screw and you're done. Turn 6 way out or way in, and 20 to reset RPM. Maybe. Seems like the increased idle speed must come from the small passage to chamber 17. With no solenoid that passage is always open. I think, I couldn't make sense of the FSM words.

The EFI FPR's work by bleeding off excess pressure. So without a return line there's no control mechanism, no where for the excess pressure to go. Could be that an FPR before the rail with no return line is actually not doing anything at all. Max fuel pressure is probably determined by the pump's internal pressure relief. I'm not sure how other FPR's work, but that's the principle behind the EFI units. That's why if you block the return line the pressure rises to the pump's max. And the fumes have to be going somewhere. They probably just get purged away from the vent exit quickly if you don't smell them. Or you smoke. The purpose of the charcoal canister is to store them until they can be sucked in to the engine. For the environment.

I didn't read the article I just worked from the basics. If you measure on a low pressure day, you'll get a different reading than on a high pressure day. If you want to work with a voltage or resistance, without converting to pressure you can do that. Your assumptions are complicating things, along with unclear thinking. What's the set-point of your "switch", for example. If you haven't done your measurements yet then you shouldn't be making decisions about where you'll get the air. That's how good science works - set up your experiment from sound principles, use good equipment, take your measurements, and draw conclusions. You've already decided that the engine bay is "bad" without knowing anything. That's bad science. but it makes a ton of money for K&N.

The "CAI" thing is a market mainly produced by K&N. To go along with their filters that let more dirt in. Those guys have made their millions selling things that probably do more damage than good. Most cars already have a remote entrance for air. Once the car is moving the air in the engine bay is replaced. With cool outside air. But, you can get MAP sensors from places like DIYAUtotune. You'd want two, one to measure a reference point and one to measure the new location. Just like the O2 sensor, you need software to process the signal. https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/sensors-data-logging/temperature-and-pressure-sensors/

The bushing choices are personal, I think. It's really hard to compare road quality. I probably drove on at least three different types of road just today. They have new quiet pavement, that is smooth, old large stone filled concrete that's worn (very noisy), oiled gravel which is more noisy than new concrete. And the recent snowstorms here have created 100's of small and large potholes. The local highway that I use often has a definite transition from one type of pavement to another, where my opinion of my sound system quality goes from "sounds great, good enough" to "I need more watts, can't hear anything". There's a whole thread here somewhere where we argue about which steering coupler to use. It's that fine of a distinction.

Have you thought the struts/shocks? And ride height? My car had the original strut/shock mechanistic, still full of old fish oil. There are good inexpensive replacements out there.

Looks like they changed mid build year 1975, and again in 1976. Double check though. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-260z-280z/2-seater/door-panel-glass-hinge http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/door-panel-glass-hinge

Don't ruin it for me. I just have to get to the Goodwill to buy a VHS machine then find a copy of the movie.

I had to search it myself. You made the big time. Now we're going to have a bunch of old movie fans joining the site. Mike should thank you.

Actually, in a Z car, the frame and body are essentially the same thing. There are "sub-frame" components, that look like a typical frame but are actually welded or bolted directly to the body. On a typical frame-based car the body is sitting on rubber bushings on top of the frame. If you just confirm that what Nissan installed is intact you'll probably be fine. Many of the ground circuits are redundant. The engine is grounded to the battery through the negative battery cable but there are other ground wires, probably to ensure that paint, gaskets, or thread sealer aren't interrupting a circuit. You can check ground circuits using a test light or a meter. A meter will give you more information.

Are you going to coat the inside with Glyptal like some people do?

If a person who lives in Florida travels to New York City will they start receiving ads and/or mail about New York City.

I subconsciously realized a future error was coming so put that in to divert from my "get out humor" typo...

Me thinks jfa is on to something. CZCC has the FMS's now too (we all keep forgetting). http://www.classiczcars.com/files/ atlanticz has some stuff - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm Insert obligatory comment about how today's tiny-screened super-phones do not really improve quality of internet experience. ____________________________ Sorry potholez but we have to get out humor where we find it.

Those wires should be fairly easy to figure out with the wring diagram. The connector shapes are generally shown, with wire colors. And the picture of a relay doesn't show the connector shape or the wire colors, you should take a better one. And there are numbers on the relays, you should post those or search them on the internet. Plus you should determine location of the connectors, using other clues. Like the thick white wire with the round rubber cap on it (probably covering a ring connector - take a better picture) probably goes to the alternator or the back of the ammeter (not familiar with the back of a 72 ammeter myself). Once you start locking a few connections down it narrows the possibilities for the other wires due to distance. A short piece of wire can only be connected to something within a short distance. Determine what you know, and share it, and the unknown will be easier to figure out.

Somebody broke the glass on my Pathfinder mirror (with internal heater) years ago and I found that Nissan sold a stick-on replacement. It came with adhesive on the back. Cleaned off the chipped up glass on the old mirror, peeled off the backing paper, and stuck it on. Takes a few seconds longer to defrost and sticks out a bit farther, but it was cheap and easy. Seems like somebody out there could cut some thin mirrored glass to shape and you could stick it on somehow, if the glass base is still somewhat intact.