Zed Head

Was going to add this graphic to my other post. Shows the path of the exhaust gases, up through the round hole and right over and down in to the rectangular hole.

Unforeseen circumstances. Maybe he, you know, got a cold. Anybody notice that the seller decided to call himself "TheZMan".

The ports need to match though. That's the reason it needs to be bent/manipulated back to shape.

Welders, take a look here. I'm not a welding expert but I think that exhaust manifolds are difficult to weld because the carbon content changes after a billion heat cycles. Found a good video though. I do know that you can use welding to bend things. I'd probably just find a good welder and ask him to weld some beads on the underside and it will pull that end down as it shrinks. Then have the mating surface ground flat. Really though, if you have a local speed shop there's probably an old-timer there that knows exactly what to do. Or one of the tuner shops, the turbo guys probably warp them all the time. Warped manifolds are common.

I think that Captain Obvious has written some good stuff about the EGR system. Can't remember the details, but I think that if you just seal the hole at the top of the intake manifold with a plate and a good gasket you will not have any vacuum leaks. Sounds like you did that with tape already. You don't need to seal the bottom because it is just a passage to the hole at the top. I used a 16mm bolt inside the remaining piece of tube on the exhaust manifold, with some ceramic muffler sealant paste to seal the hole in the exhaust manifold. Cut a groove in the bolt threads and it becomes a self-tapping screw thread. Or, if there is a piece of pipe left in the exhaust manifold you could find a compression fitting and use that. Or, simply, you could crimp it and fold it over with some vise-grips and it would probably seak just fine. Ugly but effective. Do you have your heater core intact or is it "bypassed"? If you're not using the heater core you should block the ports, not bypass them. Bypassing can cause overheating.

It's early for obvious but have to ask - have you tried lifting up on the other end? There's play in those center holes. Only one stud is visible in your picture. It should rotate around it. Put all three in the middle and if it's still off it might be junk. Or you could grind the opening bigger. Or use welded beads to pull it down as they shrink. The metals guys probably know some tricks.

391 is on BAT. Says No Reserve. Needs a resto. Some surprising small problems. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-74/

Isn't getting rid of things because they're hard to fix a form of giving up? The vapor tank actually makes the car more of a pleasure to be around, and removes one "why do I smell gasoline?" source. There is a lot on a car that can be removed because it wasn't there in the past. Go back to carbs, remove the PCV system, get rid of the charcoal canister, go back to points, yada yada yada. I'll bet that there's enough metal left that you could just find a threaded fitting and "self-tap" some threads in to the tank. Use some sealant or epoxy on the threads before final assembly. If it doesn't work, then go ahead and "delete" it. At least give it a shot.

Looks like quite a few variations on that tank over the years. Click Engine then Fuel Tank. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 I don't have welding or brazing gear so if I had that problem I'd be looking for a mechanical solution. It would be good to see what's left on the tank.

For example, for people that follow sports, an informative post. Here's a normal healthy family man who got COVID last year. Said he was fully recovered but now he's taking time off from work as an ESPN analyst. Just some real world looks at people you might recognize from TV, that might be like typical CZCC members. Hopefully he does well with whatever is wrong with him. https://sports.yahoo.com/esp-ns-todd-mc-shay-taking-leave-of-absence-to-focus-on-health-182415309.html https://www.yahoo.com/now/esp-ns-todd-mc-shay-describes-dark-place-during-covid-19-hospital-stay-161222259.html

The thread's purpose is not to change opinions. It was started to discuss COVID and help keep people informed. Most of my posts contain links that describe the state of the situation and/or give advice about how to deal with it. Other people have felt the need to post their opinions. Even so, there's nothing really wrong with that. Your comment reminds me, no offense intended, that people generally feel that they MUST look at all posts. They have to click because it's there. The reality is that they don't have to click and they don't have to read. Even better, each thread has a button at the top that allows a user to Ignore it. Anyone who feels offended or nervous about what's in the thread should just click the button. There's no need for protective censorship. The button is right up there at the top. You can Ignore specific members also. p.s. If Z cars is all that are allowed then the Boobs thread will need to be ended also.

Life is about issues Mike. A life that only revolved around Z cars would not be very substantial. We're all adults here. We can handle it. DC, what struck me about your post was that you didn't show any compassion for the woman who put her mask on when she saw you coming. Despite the fact that you had seen your own wife suffering with COVID so you knew what she was trying to avoid. It just seemed cruel. But we can't all be nice guys, I guess. Anyway, it will be interesting to see how society fares when institutions shut down because of actual sickness instead of prevention. I wish that the various authority figures could learn how to frame the subject in ways that everyone can understand.

Waste of words. Never mind.

Edited. Again. DC might not be trying to troll but it sure does feel like I had a hook in my mouth. Another edit - Realized that the basic question somebody reading DC's post should ask themselves is - is DC's recent "life" the type of life that they want for themselves or people they care about? I don't see anything desirable in the story. It's really like a story of being in a bad accident. "I made a life choice and am suffering the consequences". Actually, maybe that is the point of the story and I missed it. It's actually a story demonstrating the value of vaccination and mask-wearing, and caring for other people in society. I might be underestimating DC's very sophisticated influencing skills. Don't want to get COVID, don't want people I care about to get COVID, don't want to frighten strangers on the street. There's nothing in the story to strive for. "Not wearing a mask" seems to be the only thing that matters. At what cost? Seems pretty high.

I think that the ring gear presses down to a seat on the flywheel. Found a video. Most likely somebody hacked the flywheel on over the spacer with some longer bolts or hanging by a few threads. Like Yarb said might not be good to run it for too long. It's not right.

I think that COVID is going to be running around the States for a long time. It's really turning into background noise in some places. This is Tennessee, for a World Cup Qualifier soccer game right now. The players might be fine, who knows about those fans. Crowd of 43,000. One of the players did get COVID though, had to miss today's game. It's in Davidson County. https://covidactnow.org/us/tennessee-tn/county/davidson_county/?s=22611184

Oops.

It's well documented Mike. Even that vaccinated people can carry the same viral load in their nasal cavities as unvaccinated people if they do get the virus. The point of being vaccinated, especially with the Delta variant, is to stay out of the hospital and get well sooner, and to improve the odds of not catching the virus in the first place. It's all about probability, the odds of bad things happening. Many people want things to be black and white, yes or no, but that's not how the world works. Just like avoiding bad foods, or wearing a seatbelt. Improve your chances. Masking is what protects those around you the best. It contains the virus to your own local environment if you have it.

Unplug this connector, below, turn on the headlight switch and measure voltage at the low beam wire from the main harness side. The colors should match the wiring diagram. If you copied the correct diagram for your year it should be red with black stripe. You didn't say what year car. If there's no power the problem is between that connector and the lights. If there is power than the problem is in the switch. You could even make a fused jumper wire and ground the low beam wire to confirm that low beam will work if grounded. Or, if you're confident that you have the correct wire just ground it with any old jumper wire. The headlight will protect the circuit.

PSA for hunters. https://www.dispatch.com/story/sports/2021/09/05/ohio-deer-carry-covid-virus-how-hunters-can-protect-themselves/5711877001/

It would be interesting to know if your ring gear/flywheel is set deeper than it should be. Need somebody with a working setup to take a measurement. Maybe a previous owner didn't know about the automatic's flex plate spacer and built their own hack to get the flywheel mounted. Good luck. Seems like a lot of work but a fun project.

Google read my mind and placed the video in front of me. I added the effort of clicking and wrote some words. Anyone who tries this must make a video and post it.

Darkness can help diagnose spark loss problems.

Already posted. Where's the link to your store? Not enough info here to buy...

There are two. The plastic one is hidden. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html